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Our
Man in Zambia
 Our
Man in Zambia : Part Two
 Our
Man in Zambia : Part Three
 Our
Man in Zambia : Part Four
Our
Man in Zambia : Part Five
Our
Man in Zambia : Part Six
Our
Man in Zambia : Part Seven |
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FACTS |
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Zambia: Population: 10.8 million (UN, 2003) Capital: Lusaka Major language: English (official), Bemba, Lozi, Nyanja,
Tonga Major religions: Christianity, indigenous beliefs,
Hinduism, Islam Life expectancy: 33 years (men), 32 years (women) (UN)
Leader: Levy Mwanawasa Monetary unit: 1 Kwacha = 100 ngwee Main exports: Copper, minerals, tobacco Average annual
income: US $320 (World Bank, 2001) Internet domain: .zm
International dialling code: +260
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Every Zambian inhabitant eats the stuff, morning,
lunch and dinner - without exception. And they love it, absolutely
love it. Starve a Zambian of nshima for more than 12 hours and they
break out into cold sweats and delusions.
The lengths to which most of the Southern African
population will go for a bowl of this maize staple, known as mealie
meal in its pounded form, are staggering.
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Maize growing. |
Take the Zimbabwean High Commissioner who once
famously picked someone up in a chauffeur-driven Mercedes from Heathrow
airport on the basis that they had brought mealie meal with them.
Or the diplomat who had a bag of mealie meal shipped
over from Zambia. I have a bizarre image of tussling with a bag
of mealie meal as to who has the window seat on the plane.
Nshima is made from ground maize flour, which in
turn is made from corn maize or, to us Brits, corn on the cob. The
maize flour is boiled with water and then 'paddled', not stirred,
to create a thick dough, which can be shaped into patties.
It's very filling and cheap, explaining why maize
is so important to Zambia. Every spare piece of land, from the roadside
verges to overgrown football pitches, is used to grow this staple.
Mealie meal comes in bags of 25kg and feeds a family
of six for a month. It costs about four pounds a bag. That's about
15 pence a kilogram, or about £14 for my entire body weight.
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Maize bags. |
The dish is usually eaten with some sort of relish
- beans, fried cabbage or meat.
Before eating, a bowl of water is passed round
to wash hands and it is particularly bad etiquette not to do so,
even if, heaven forbid, you're not eating nshima. You then eat it
with your hands and make small patties out of it before dipping
in the relish.
Personally, I really like the stuff but, following
a four-day camp with some Zambian children and with only several
bags of nshima as food, Alice seems to have developed an allergy
to it. She still has difficulty speaking openly about the whole
experience.
The dish made from maize varies in name and in
thickness depending on where you go. In Malawi for instance, the
nshima tends to be quite soft, especially if prepared from refined
mealie meal. Malawians say that sadza - from Zimbabwe - tastes like
concrete. From the Zimbabwean viewpoint, the Malawian nshima is
like porridge. Zambians are happy with something in between.
Coming from a country that does not really have
a truly national dish, it is difficult to fathom just how important
this resource really is. Wars have been started over nshima and
Zambians have named their children after the stuff. If someone were
to ask a Zambian what it was that had built Zambia to what it is
today, then I would wage my own weight in mealie meal that the answer
would be nshima.
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