Lake Tyrifjorden, a watery paradise surrounded by pine forests, has become a place of nightmares. But there are stories here too of enormous courage.
As our boat speeds towards the island, Utoeya, where the massacre took place, I can see divers in the lake searching for more bodies: a grim reminder that the death toll could be even higher.
We stop in the lake around 100m from the scene of the attack: I can see four body bags lined up behind a small building - victims who had tried and failed to hide here from the gunman.
Further along, emergency teams are lifting other bodies onto boats to take to the mainland.
Suddenly a police boat approaches. We have sailed too close to the island: it is time to leave.
We sail on to another island opposite and meet Helge. He had been relaxing in his holiday cottage when the attack began. Long before the police arrived, he jumped into his boat and went to the rescue.
"We saw people on the shore waving at us and needing help," Helge tells me.
"So we went there and took five youngsters back with us: a girl who had been shot in the knee, her leg was broken; three of the kids were unhurt but in shock; and then we had to carry a boy who was more dead than alive. We put him in the boat and went to the mainland."
"And at this time the gunman was still at large?" I ask.
"Yes, he was. I only thought about that afterwards. That he had been shooting after boats, and shooting after people swimming in the water. That was a nasty thought."
Helge's offer of help was one act of heroism in this hell on the water.