by Oliver Rowe

Pigeon breasts are a delicious introduction to game. Here they're served with wild mushrooms and a rich red wine gravy.

Main course

Buyer's guide

A young pigeon will have a supple breastbone and plump, pink flesh - these are ideal for roasting. Older birds, better for the stew pot, will have darker meat and more wrinkled skin. Pigeon, squab and woodpigeon are available all year.