For the ham hocks, soak the ham hocks overnight in a large saucepan of cold water. Drain the next day to remove any excess salt (this applies with an unsmoked ham too), keeping the ham in the pan.
Stud the onion with the cloves, then add to the pan with the cider and peppercorns. Add enough cold water to cover the ham, cover with a lid and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 2 hours until the ham is tender to the point of a knife, topping up with boiling water to cover the ham again if necessary.
Meanwhile, to make the chutney. Heat a frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the chillies, stirring continuously for a few minutes until they smell fragrant and delicious. Try not to burn them or they will turn from delicious to bitter! Transfer to a bowl and cover with boiling water from the kettle (at least 100ml/3½fl oz).
Add the sugar to a small saucepan and melt with the tamarind pulp. Stir in the vinegar, brandy, spices and raisins and let them simmer very gently over a very low heat.
Meanwhile check the chillies. When soft, use a stick blender to blend them to a smooth paste. Add the chillies to the rest of the chutney and simmer gently over a low heat for 10 minutes, seasoning generously with salt.
Preheat the oven to 200C/180C Fan/Gas 6.
Lift the hocks out of the pan onto a wire rack sat in a roasting tin (reserve the cooking liquor). When cool enough to handle, remove the skin of the ham (not the fat) using a sharp knife. Discard the skin (or save it to make crackling) and lightly score the fat into diamonds. Mix together the muscovado sugar, ground cloves and mustard then rub it over the fat of the ham.
Pour 200ml/7fl oz of the ham cooking liquor into the roasting tin (so the meat doesn’t dry out as it roasts), and roast the hocks on a rack for 35 minutes until the fat is golden and glazed. Remove from the oven and allow to rest.
Meanwhile, for the celeriac mash, steam or boil the potato and celeriac together for about 15 minutes, until tender. Then, using plenty of elbow grease, roughly mash everything together, stirring in the butter and crème fraîche as you go. If you prefer super-smooth mash, use an electric whisk. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
For the salad, mix all the ingredients except the celeriac, apple and parsley, together in the bottom of a serving dish. Toss the celeriac and apple in the dressing with the parsley.
To serve, pull the ham off the bone in large chunks and serve with the celeriac mash, salad and chutney.