To make the bread and butter pickles, place the cucumber, onions and salt in a sieve set over a large bowl and cover with ice. Put some plates and other heavy items on top to weigh everything down and refrigerate for 3 hours. Drain off all of the liquid and rinse off all the salt in cold water. Drain again thoroughly.
Meanwhile, heat the vinegar, sugar, turmeric, cloves, mustard seeds, fennel seeds and 1 tablespoon of water in a small saucepan. Add the cucumber and onion and cook for 5 minutes. Leave to cool.
To make the ssamjang relish, place all the ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together until well combined. Set aside.
To make the 'noodle crack' spice mixture, add all the ingredients to a food processor and pulse to a coarse powder.
To make the fried chicken, rinse the chicken pieces in cold water and pat dry with kitchen paper. Preheat a deep-fat fryer to 180C. (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended.)
Tip the flour, dried herbs, cayenne pepper, white pepper and salt into a large polythene bag. Shake until well combined.
In a bowl, beat the evaporated milk and eggs together until well combined.
Dip a chicken thigh into the milk mixture until completely coated, then place it in the polythene bag. Twist the bag closed and shake vigorously until the thigh is completely coated. Remove the thigh from the bag and set aside on a plate. Repeat with the remaining thighs.
Carefully lower the chicken thighs into the hot oil, one at a time, using tongs. Cook for 15–20 minutes, turning regularly, until crisp and deep golden-brown. Remove using a slotted spoon and set aside to drain on kitchen paper. Check that the chicken is cooked through and has no traces of pink at the thickest part of the thigh.
Drizzle the beef dripping over the cooked thighs then sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the “noodle crack” spice mixture all over them (the remaining mixture can be stored in an airtight jar). Transfer the chicken thighs to a serving platter and arrange the cucumber strips, lettuce leaves, kimchi, spring onion, bread and butter pickles and the bowl of ssamjang relish around the chicken. Serve immediately.