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If
you like drinking good coffee, then the BBC World Service
is the place to work. Within a minute's walk of our
studios here at Bush House in central London, there
must be now around a dozen places you can buy a cup
of coffee.
That is a huge increase from only a year or so ago.
You might think such a boom in retail outlets would
be good news for the growers of coffee. But that isn't
the case. Prices for growers have slumped.
Robusta coffee, which is grown mainly in Africa and
Indonesia, is at its lowest level for 30 years. Even
premium arabica beans are at their lowest price for
seven years.
The growers are not happy and their disgust at the current
market conditions is well expressed by Brazil's agriculture
minister, Marcus Pratini de Moraes.
Mr Pratini says the roasters, which are the multinational
food groups like Nestle and Philip Morris, are continuing
to reap large profits while the coffee farmers suffer.
"Currently, the coffee market is a reduction
in prices for the farmer. But there is no reduction
of the price for the consumers. Somebody is taking huge
benefits. And we don't believe this is fair.
"I don't think we should condemn the poor South
American or Central American farmers to misery. So we
decided to withdraw from the market a substantial amount
of coffee, through the retention plan, to avoid this
speculation and to reduce the high degree of speculation."
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We
will not accept that coffee prices be manipulated
by speculators and generate poverty for millions
and millions of farmers. Marcus
Pratini de Moraes
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But is it really all the fault of so-called speculators,
or is it merely the laws of supply and demand?
At
a meeting last week in London, leading coffee producing
nations discussed progress on their retention scheme.
Some low grade coffee may even be destroyed.
Caroline Eagles of the online information site
commodityexpert agrees that there is currently too much
coffee being grown. Global production at the moment
is estimated at about 150 million bags, and demand is
put at somewhere around 105 million.
She
says that there
has been one startling newcomer in the industry, Vietnam.
Just over ten years ago, production in Vietnam was negligible.
This year, they are estimating they are going to be
producing between 12 and 12.5 million bags. To put that
into perspective, that makes them the second largest
producer, after Brazil. They actually have now overtaken
Colombia, in terms of coffee production.
Caroline Eagles believes the problems have arisen because
of the cycles involved in coffee production. "A
coffee tree takes about four or five years before it
can actually begin production. And so, when you have
a high price, everybody plants. But then it takes four
or five years for all this new output to come in. It
comes in all at once, and as a result the price comes
down."
So it's not something like, for example, oil production,
where you can turn the tap off.
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It
takes a long time for these changes in supply
and demand to filter through to the market.
Caroline Eagles
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Caroline
Eagles believes that Vietnam has actually very recently
shown that it is now aware of its responsibilities as
a world producer.
She added that one of the most important things that
came out of this meeting in London this week was the
clear declaration that Vietnam has already retained
one million bags of coffee and is also hoping to retain
a further amount.
So how is this discrepancy explained? The fact that
world market prices for coffee have plummeted, and yet
the price of coffee that people buy in consuming nations
has stayed pretty much the same?
According to Caroline Eagles "the roasters
say that in fact the cost of the coffee bean is a very,
very small part of their overall cost, because they
have packaging, marketing, etc. But then other people
would say that, when the cost of the coffee bean rockets,
the roasters are very, very quick to increase the price
of coffee in the shops."
She
adds that the roasters have never actually said exactly
what percentage the cost of coffee is. She believes
that people are becoming more aware of this discrepancy
and perhaps the roasters may be realising that there
is a public awareness of the big gap between the two
prices
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The
roasters may be coming under more pressure to
perhaps rethink their prices in the shops.
Caroline Eagles
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The retention plan has been in operation for some
time. Brazil has taken a very active role, but just
how successful has it been?
Caroline Eagles feels that the plan, when
it was announced, was greeted with a lot of scepticism
from the market, because they had never seen any other
scheme work before. Brazil has been exemplary this time
round in complying with the retention scheme. It was
the first and has been retaining 20 per cent of its
exports since July. Other countries have only recently
started, because their own crops are only starting to
come through.
The
increasing credibility of this retention plan does not
seem to have been reflected in the market price of coffee
yet. Caroline Eagles believes this is because firstly,
the announcements by Vietnam and Indonesia have really
only come out in the past week or so and also, the other
key factor is that they are going to be carrying out
an audit.
"This will be important for the market, because
obviously it's one thing for countries to say that they
have this coffee stored away - it's another thing for
an independent company to go out there and verify that
the exact number of bags are in warehouses and that
they exist. And I think, if the coffee is there, the
market will start to react."
So does Caroline Eagles believe there another tactic
-
other than trying to improve the global world price
of coffee - of attracting those consumers of coffee
with a social conscience who are prepared to pay for
it? Is there any more ground to be gained in these brands
of coffee - the fair trade coffee? Is that a way round
certain retail marketers of coffee having long-term
contracts with producers which protect the producers
from these sharp swings in prices?
"Well,
the fair trade is marvellous and all these other companies
that do it - Cathay Direct, for instance. It's something
that everybody applauds. Really, you want all coffee
producers to be benefiting from better prices and not
a very small number."
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The
fair trade coffee is something that everyone applauds.
Really, you want all coffee producers to be benefiting
from better prices and not a very small number
Caroline Eagles
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