BBC HomeExplore the BBC
This page has been archived and is no longer updated. Find out more about page archiving.

16 October 2014
Surfing
Wales Surfing

BBC Homepage
Wales Home
Surfing

Contact Us

Lone surfer @ Gennith by Guto

OTL Messageboard

Summer is here, a new swell looms and nick flack asks the eternal question "what are the best things about surfing?"

Best things about surfing...

Huwsplums: Being able to get away from everyone and everything when you're stressed where no-one can get hold of you - no mobile phones!!!

Nick Flack: Evening glass offs

Daf Williams: Seeing the lip crash down as you duckdive through a hollow keg, pulling snaps at the most vertical part of a section/close out so that the wave actually takes you down with it..

red&yellow: Paddling and riding over the wave in a large set and not being dragged into the face.

Steve: Getting butterflies in your stomach because you know it's a big swell and can't wait to get in the water. Like this weekend, I'm trying to get all my Open Uni work out of the way not to spoil the weekend.

Surfing Sass: Mmmmm Swell.....

surfing dark lord: Going for a pint after...no question man or denying your mates claim to have had a cover up... always a close second.

Shorum: Driving to the beach. Ooh the anticipation...

adie: Seeing the sun shining through the lip of a peeling barrel

salsan: Surfing at sunrise and sunset..

thesurfingcat: The slide. The feeling of slipping fluidly over the surface of the water, sapping the full potential of the waves to pull you shoreward, then immediately paddling back out to do it again.

Kev: That inner smile after a good session, and every time you think about thereafter.

nick flack: I love that. Hours later, at home, in the pub, wherever...You close your eyes, and you can still see the lip coming up. A small smile, barely visible on the outside is as big as the ocean inside. Only a surfer my friend...

Kev: Years later, even, the very best sessions are still embedded and can be recalled whenever. Thought myself to sleep last night with one at Slade Reef 6+ yrs ago Big waves on my 10'6" just me and Silverback surer out. Smiling now.

surfing squirrel: Dropping a load at dawn watching the swell roll in

Bic: The anticipation of a good session.

Duncan_Agg: Sitting out back, waiting for a set to come-lots of thinking time to yourself. so peaceful perfect.

Jamez: Laughing out loud as you watch your m8 get caught inside on a shallow reef whilst the set of the day flies through onto him.....hehehe

Gazza D: Searching for new waves and getting them perfect with just your mates.

Oafie: catching a few waves with wildlife, looking down on a slow easy right & gliding over a massive stingray...and just the smoothness of a sloooow peeeling wave & the board just doing what you want it to!

EvS: Feeling like you're flying!

Beach Brum: Sitting out back @ whitesands watching oyster catchers and seals while waiting for that set to come in.

Mart: The late arvo sun as the glassy waters around you turn pinky red as the sun sinks + scoring on a dawn patrol and the satisfaction you get, driving back as everyone else is on their way into work having missed it!

Comments

JellyBelly
I love it when you look over your shoulder and see the wave that your going to ride. You start paddling and then woosh your skimming across the water at speed and the feeling is awesome. I'm hooked!

OA
a bit like flying on the ocean when u catch the wave.At that moment, the time stops almost.Feel the wind pass through ur face, the wave under ur feet, the silenceSwell…

OscarChile
The best?: correr la ola amigo mio... or knowing that your boss and all the office nerds envy you because in the weekend you are free...

hollie - wrexham
the butty van in hells mouth car park in abersoch!! after a long surf!

dai pembs
gettin to a break early and haveing the first hour to yourself, sweet! hot cup of cha after first surf in december

Big Wave Fanatic
"Surfing is a special kind of madness" "It is a culmination of love, respect,knowledge and fear-" The ocean is our dance floor. The second we paddle out to the line up we are asking the ocean for a dance and she will either willfully accpet by letting connect as one on the wave or decline. I remember when i first started surfing....i was scared and my stomach was a twisted knot of pain, and every time i went to stand up on a wave i would fall down (hard) and get hurt. It wasn't until my fifth hard fall that I realized, surfing is mental...it is all about your state of mind. If you are scared and don't think you can do it, then you wont but if you are confident and sure of your surfing while paddling into a wave, you will charge that wave like nothing. I love surfing more than anything else in this world and it is my dream to surf every single break there is in this world. Although i am not a pro or completely experienced i am determined to stare down the face of a 35 foot giant at mavericks or a razor sharp coral reef at pipeline...keep on surfing and dont give up on your dreams of doing it, you are your own unique surfer and dont let any body tell you that you can't do it..because you can as long as your have the heart and determination to do it..I did.

mike jones surfer barry
i love to surf with my mates we always get the same waves and smash each other off sort of like gladiators it's awesome

mitch wat
surfing i love a with passioni love just rippinespecially in the arvos right on the shoreys

Miguel from Portugal
my happiest moments are when I do new manouvers, then I get out into the sand with a huge smile and wanting to jump around, then your friends come along with the same smile and same feeling, look at you and say "man you rippin!" eheh

surf guru
releasing all the tension from your body just feeling how the waves move

rhys surfer barry
watching the sun set as you ride the last set of waves back in.

Rheee
Getting in the car after a good sesh, winding down the window and listening to those waves that you know you'll see tomorrow. Relaxed and with a grin from each ear.

cody mitchell mass.
yo surfing just relaxes me out and its just mad fun........theres really nothing else more fun to do then sit out on the ocean catching sum waves and chatting wit the people.....but always remmeber the ocean is like our mother treat her well..........

jed frampton from ventnor, isle of wight
I think that the best thing about surfing is the joy of chatching your first wave. that memory lasts for ever.

roxy, durban
when you see a school of fish under you! what an awesome feeling and when you have a big wipeout and come out with sand everywhere!

Alex Duraes, Brasilllll
Segue ai um conselho para todos q se amarram no surf... "Faça seu próprio caminho não siga as pegadas de outra pessoa..." show leke!!! valeuuuuuuu

CJ Dublin
There can't be only one thing, it's a bit like having only one best ever wave so here's two. The warm can of beer that's been fizzing beside my tent in the warm August sunshine whilst I surfed for 5 hours straight in head high glass with few suf buddies, beer never tasted so good. The freezing cold January surf on a small glassy beak sharing wave, having a laugh shouting our heads off so much the surf shop owner closed the door and came surfing too. Ps there's no wave in Ireland, Wales blocks all the swell

timmydevon
the thrill of waiting for that perfect wave then the excitement once your on it and the mental pictures you take to look at for weeks to come.

JC from MA
Being soooo exahusted but going out for one more run 10 more times

*Mrs. H* from South Africa
Coming home from a SICK surf session and eating a FAT peanutbutter sandwich!

Rosie
Camping in the summer down Gennith. Can't beat it.Getting up, slipping into your suit and jogging down the beach to catch your first wave of the day. Surfing till the sun goes down. Then chillin with mates on a bbq with a couple of cans and music on the go!

Ed
Surfing takes me away from the hassle and problems of life, forget everything and just surf. Surfing is what I like about surfing

Sunshine from SoCal
Sitting in the lineup, seeing a set off in the horizon and knowing that your name is on one of them!

Jason from Shoreham-by-Sea
Catching just the right wave that could carry you all the way in to the shore if you wanted... Also, finding a great beach that is completely secluded, and you can just be there all day. Brilliant!

gettin wiv the crew
jus' hanging out wiv the gang after a good session

keg meister from swazi
The feeling that only a surfer knows!!!

w42ren
Being sucked over the falls, forcibly submerged, spherically compressed and released from the wave, it feels like a rebirth.

Ray Sebastian,Fl
Hearing the surf repost 3 days in advance to find out the day you go out that its much better. the feel you get when you make your way back to your car and someone tells you, maaan your so sick, you shred like a pro.

Katie from Ayles
I love the silence, the anticipation, the sunshine warm on your face. I love glassy waves that whoosh infront of you as you catch the best of the set and ride gently stroking the face with you hand. Paddling back over the top of waves, life feels great!

surf for life
talkin to ur closest mates about the sick moves u dident realy stick.

ToneZBoneZ ,south Florida
dreaming about playing in the waves for years and years and finally really doing it.

Mikey Monkfish (Bridgend)
Surfing/Bodyboarding is just so much fun for me! I don't care if I'm no good, or even if I don't catch many waves, it's just the thrill of being out in the Sea having fun. I went out the other day having not been in the wet stuff for a year or so, and I enjoyed it. I was aching badly next day, but I still went back for more! :-)

j0s
just making it over a wave by forcing yourself through the top and getting the wet slap in the face...but knowing all that paddling paid off and you can just sit and wait for the next set...good times :)

sara davis from coffs
i love how unpredicatable the water is. how one minute your up and riding , the next your in a sea of white wash and water. and your nose is full of bubbles. then you get straight back up onto your board and keep on going.

Sian from Port TAlbot
Watching some sexy guy on a green roger cooper in ABERAVON...oh hes so cute...about 6 foot dark hair flowing back....drives a vovlo estate!!!the joys of surfing!!!

iampotato
i dont live near the sea so whenever we get to surf in wales its a golden opportunity- i'm not that good at it but i'm getting there!!! hope to live in pembrokeshire someday.........

andrea h. from brazil
surfing is the best thing u can do in ur life,just lying on ur board with the sun setting,the feeling of flying down the wave its finally ripping and sherdding,getting air so high makes you fell like......HEAVEN!!!!!!!!!!!!.SURF ROCKS Buddy^_^

Kiwi_Kev
When you, your board and the wave are one...you aren't even thinking about what you are doing on the wave, it just happens...

Dave
Getting up at 5 an goin for an amazing session and later arriving at school with a huge smile on your face.

R from Cott
Getting "yeeeowed" when you catch the keg of the day

Llywelyn - Swansea
Meeting nice people in the lineup and watching asshole 'locals' getting nailed in the impact zone. Lets not forget why we surf - 'cos it's fun!!

jim west wales
been suring all morning and keep saying to yourself wave and in . you are well surfed out. and get one more wave that makes you paddle out the back for one more wave

Paul Fire Island, Long Island
That feeling when you just feel the water, pushing you along.

jaycee
surf til i get my best thesis idea...

Natty The Surfing Chick From Vic
The Best thing about surfing to me is when u get out there u put fun, effort, and feelings into it, once you get bak to your car and u pack everything away and u just sit there with alll your mates it FEELS GUD! Thats why i love to surf! PS> i Love Blue Crush and (Billie Joe of Green day, i would love to teach them how to surf and surf with them any day of my life> by natalie smith, mwha love everyone of u guys at skool!

Matty Cameron
Peeing in your wettie

Glen from Gold Coast
Gliding down the face and seeing a school of fish underneath and out in front of you in the crystal clear waters

bex
surfing releases all my inner tension, cleans my depression and is theraputic for my anger management

Lover Boy From Mumbles, Swansea
Surf Betties in small bikinis....

Brett
surfing at sunset or the power yo uget when you stand up

Stajka and Castro from Solihull
The feeling of satisfaction after a good session, then watching the sets roll in over a sunset on the clifftop with a BBQ and chilled music and a nice cold Hoegaarden!!...

shayama..
The first perfect bottom turn of the ride..

Andrew
Surfing at sunset, then sitting on the beach with a cold beer watching the last few rays and talking Cr@p with friends and randoms! Life doesnt get any better...ever!

Isao from san francisco
suiting up in a dirt lot then racing your bro's down the beach to the water... and getting the drips hours after you got out of the water

Jake, Nova Scotia
Just sitting out past the sets on a clean day. The feeling is just like flating, especially after getting the shit beat out of you. It is just a feeling of peace that you cant get anywhere else.

Tim from Bristol
Dropping down the backside of a big wave on the paddle out on an offshore day, and feeling the spray rain down on me. (and the rainbow in the spray)

Craig Robo, Deeside
The feeling you get after you have just got up on your board for the first time. Absolutely awesome!!!! and the craving it fills your heart with to do it again & again & again. Wish I was out in the sea now. work sucks, this site rocks!!!!!

Silvia13 California
So beat up after a session, yet can't help but experience surfgasm.

Steph from nulla
running into the water, racing to get the first wave n waiting all day to get the best wave for the last wave

LiNa girL
The feeling of flying down the wave its finally fufilling your deepest crave Water splashing all over your face your heart beats so fast pace Ripping and shredding, getting air so high its like some sort of a fantasy lullaby

D from C
Weeing in my suit

Abby
just lying on ur board with the sun setting.....HEAVEN!

13thknight
perfect open long lefts with no-one on them

emily
when you get out of the sea, after a good session, and your sat at the van with your surf board next to you, taking off your wet suit whilst listening to red hot chili peppers - californication. its the best feeling!!

What do love about surfing?



The BBC reserves the right to select and edit comments. To submit a larger contribution or if you require a response please contact us.



About the BBC | Help | Terms of Use | Privacy & Cookies Policy