"I am learning to surf at the tender age of 39. I started last year, as my partner surfs and I was sick of waiting around on windy beaches, so I thought I'd have go.
We went to Cornwall for a long weekend and I had some lessons. I had a great time, had some more lessons in Rest bay and bought a wetsuit.
I am now using my partner's old mini-mal, and can paddle respectably, sit in the line up without wobbling too much! even catch the odd wave.
I find it hard getting on to my feet though and don't know whether I should just concentrate on catching white waves rather than trying to go for them when they are green until I can perfect my pop-up.
It seems a little like learning to drive in that there are lots of things to remember and as soon as you get the hang of one thing the other things go out the window.
I love this site and it keeps me going on dull afternoons in work, when I wish I was at the beach. It is really helpful, and one of the best sites for information and inspiration!"
"I had my first go at surfing at the age of twenty nine and also had a similar response from people I knew (aren't you a bit old to be trying that? etc).
I was also a bit dubious about the old wetsuit thing as I'm more of a beach ball body than a beach body but thought what the hell and gave it a go anyway and must say, I'm glad I did!"
"I realized that surfing is more than a sport - it's a great way of life"