Part Two
In the second half of the Nineteenth Century industry arrived in Pontarddulais. This is a simplification of what took place in that century. The railway arrived early in 1839. It was built by the Llanelly Railway Dock Co. to transport anthracite from the Amman Valley to Llanelli. The Pontarddulais Tunnel is the oldest surviving railway tunnel in Wales. This railway is regarded as the first modern railway line in Wales. There were corn mills and woollen mills on the banks of the river Dulais; and shoemakers, glovemakers, hatmakers and blacksmiths, were very much in evidence.
In 1866 a new line arrived from Swansea, and Pontarddulais became an important railway junction. A magnificent Victorian station was erected with four platforms. Wagon sheds for repairs and unloading goods were added, as were cattle pens and a coal unloading yard. Prior to the First World War there were some 150 movements a day at this station. It is from this station I went on school excursions, Sunday school trips and visits to Swansea Bay, with a ride on the Mumbles train (if I was good!)
In 1867 Graig Merthyr coal mine was opened by John Glasbrook. This mine was acquired by the Cory Brothers. For generations it was known as 'Cory'. It is here that my father worked at the coalface until his death in 1945. He would return home black in face and body, for there were no pithead baths in those days.
However, it is heavy industry that transformed Pontarddulais from a rural settlement into a thriving industrial community. This transformation took place between the year 1872 and 1910. Six tinplate works were established: Glamorgan 1872, Cambria (Gwaith y Cart) 1874, Clayton 1875, Teilo 1880, Dulais 1910 and Glynhir 1910. Swansea and its hinterland became world famous for its tinplate, and 'Bont' played its full part.
A rural community simply could not manage and run these enterprises. Consequently large numbers of people came here to work. They came from Cwmavon, Aberavon, Tai Bach and Cwm Tawe, places with industrial skills. Consequently, our village became a community of 'Y Bobl Ddwad' (immigrants). They also brought with them the 'language of heaven' to a Welsh speaking community and established churches of various denominations. This industrial community was Welsh through and through in its language and culture. People also came from Ireland, England (especially the West Country) and Bardy in Italy. There were even Welsh speaking Italians!
Census returns reveal a dramatic growth in the population of the parish of Llandeilo Talybont. In 1801 (the first census) there were 595 inhabitants. By the end of the century there were 5994 people living in the parish. In 1921, the community had increased to 12,482 inhabitants. Industrial growth was the basic reason for this dramatic development.
At the beginning of the twentieth century Pontarddulais could boast the following shops: 31 grocers, 24 drapery and haberdashery shops, 3 fishmongers, 11 butchers, 15 boot and shoe shops, 9 cobblers, 5 newsagents, 3 ironmongers, 2 saddlers, 28 sweet shops, 4 crockery shops, 2 pharmacies, 2 tobacconists, 3 cabinet makers, 1 jeweller, 6 barbers, 1 printer, 1 baker, 3 paint and decorating shops and 8 milk rounds. Only an industrial community could have supported such a profusion of shops. Daily some 30 tons of food entered the community by rail.
If you 'walk the walk' in Pontarddulais you will immediately be impressed by the number of churches and chapels. Industrial Pontarddulais gave birth to two Anglican churches and a Catholic church. But what clearly stands out is the number of nonconformist chapels (13 were built). Only one of these chapels no longer exists. Standing on a Carmarthenshire hill overlooking Pontarddulais is 'Yr Hen Gapel' the mother chapel of this community. It was founded in 1712 and it is still a place of worship. These churches and chapels were built to meet the needs of 'Y Bobl Ddwad', and it is in these places of worship they kept alive their ancient tongue. These large edifices were the social centres of the community. Choirs, orchestras, drama societies and eisteddfodau were part and parcel of the way of life of its inhabitants.
Out of these spiritual centres emerged 'Y Cor Mawr' led by T Haydn Thomas. Dan Matthew's Drama Company began in Trinity Chapel in 1900. This Welsh language drama company became famous throughout Wales. As a young boy I well remember oratorios sung in Hope Chapel and eisteddfodau in Siloh. The latter chapel could boast an orchestra. Working class people became secretaries, treasurers, deacons, choir masters (codwr canu in the chapel), readers, wardens, vergers and sextons.
It is in the Sunday school I learnt to read, to stand before a congregation to read, recite and sing. Well I remember the Welsh Sabbath when shops, works and mine were closed. You wore your Sunday best, attended services morning, noon and night. No whistling, no hands in your pocket, no Sunday papers (they were usually hidden if someone knocked on the door!) - those were the rules on Sunday. At the end of the day you enjoyed the 'monkey parade'. Dozens of young boys and girls came out of the churches and chapels and congregated outside the electricity show rooms. Then we would promenade up and down the main street and walk around Coedbach Park. Many met their future partners whilst participating in the 'monkey parade'. The Welsh language could clearly be heard, evident not only in places of worship but also in the coal mine and tinplate works.
Gwyn Griffiths
History of Pontarddulais - Part Three
your comments
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Paul Watson from Derbyshire
My Great Grandfather was Frederick William Ryall, who I understand was employed at the Glynhir Tinplate Works as a Platelayer, and died around 1930 aged 70yrs. He left a Widow and grown-up family in Pontardulais, including a Son who was connected with the Pontardulais Wheelers and Cycling Club. I would like to know of any living decendants/relatives of the Ryall family in the area.
Tue May 26 16:08:20 2009
Clive Williams
I am attempting to find out information on my father's ancestors who lived in Pontardulais in the late 19th Century and first half of 20th Century. If anyone is able to kindly let me have any info on them I would be very pleased. In particular Samuel (Peploe) Williams, his wife Margaret (Nee Rees), his father John his wife Elizabeth (Nee Reynolds).
Mon Nov 3 12:52:23 2008
Lyn Elias, Huahin, Thailand.ex. Saron, Ammanford.
An excellent story which evokes many memories. Retired now and living in the Tropics, but still have hiraeth. Pob hwyl.
Mon Sep 1 13:00:37 2008
Mike from Alltiago Rd
Has anyone got any maps of Alltiago Rd 1860-1900?
Tue May 6 09:22:50 2008
Deborah Tilley Pembrokeshire
Does anyone have any info on the non-conformist Morgan family of Llandeilo Talybont (Glynhir and Llwynllwchwr) in the 18th century? Trying to trace Isaac Morgan's parents(him born circa 1720 and married Mary Thomas of Pembrey) Info appreciated.
Wed Apr 9 17:31:01 2008
Anita Harper. New Zealand
Re Margaret Black. Our Gt. Grandfather Stephen Harper was the Brother of Catherine Matilda. He came to New Zealand. He married a Welsh lady, Jane Lloyd, and lived here in Christchurch. He died very young because of, we believe, working as an agent in the lead mine. We have the family tree back to the early 1600's.
Wed Feb 13 08:52:56 2008
Jan Barrett from Manchester
My grandmother was a Cory. Her father was, apparently, a brother of the Cory brothers but was, unfotunately, the black sheep of the family and had made a living as a sea captain but by the time my grandfather met my g'mother her father was the swimming-pool attendant of Penarth baths! After she married my g'father they lived at 1 Taff St in Ferndale as my g'father was the station master, he was called Frank Lowe.I have seen the statue of John Cory outside the Museum of Wales in Cardiff and have heard of the Cory Brass Band and Cory Hall but know nothing more of the Cory family. My grandmother, before she married, was called 'THE miss Cory' and my mother, her daughter-in-law, always said that she thought she was blooming Queen Mary!
Thu Jan 31 12:40:22 2008
Glyn from London
The cinema was the Tivoli known as the Tiv. It was a riotous place on a Saturday to watch an old Elvis movie or cowboy films, just for a tanner,and an absolute fleapit compared to the cinemas in Swansea. The seats were barely covered and some modern tv's have bigger screens but it was cheap and it was fun and we had no telly.
The walk along the river to Cory was a wondeful adventure and so scenic before those awful pylons. The pit was a hole in the hillside, a drift mine, in which my father his father and just about everyone else in our famly worked. The walk down was a mile and a half in black mud. The canteen served a massive mug of tea for a penny and a huge rock cake for 3d.
Later after the pit had closed my cousin and I would tickle trout in the pools above the pithead works. But the best bit was to hitch a ride on the Cory loco, the steam train that took the miners and the coal up and down the line to the Bont past the abattoir! My father and his brother (Ken and Will Morgan) used to walk the 3 miles from their tenant hill farm at Cwmceirdinen above Garnswllt to the colliery. Will had the Grove Garage in the Bont, putting a tiger in your tank for years.
My father left to seek his fortune elsewhere determined that his sons would not follow him down the pit and ironically it was we who posthumously received his compensation from the NCB when they finaly acknowledged their legacy. This town has the fondest place in my memory.
Wed Jan 23 16:05:20 2008
Chris Skudra, Pontarddulais Library
Can I just remind visitors to this site that Pontarddulais library holds a large quantity of old photos, maps and local history information pertinent to the area should customers wish to contact us through the following means:Tel:01792 882822 email:pontarddulais.library@swansea.gov.uk
Tue Dec 18 10:17:33 2007
mike
Does anyone have any maps of pontardulais, alltiago road 1900-1940?
Fri Jul 6 13:06:47 2007
Nikki J. Cameron from Pontarddulais
I enjoyed reading your story Gwyn as I am not from Pontarddulais originally, but Fforestfach, Swansea. I now live at St Teilo Street, which was formerly a cinema. If you could give information on the cinema I would be very grateful.
Fri Jun 15 17:44:01 2007
Barbara Turner, Evesham
I am currently researching my family tree and according to the 1901 census my great grandfather Morgan Jenkins was born in Llandilo Talybont, don't know if I'm on the right track with this as it says that he lived with his wife and 10 children in Green Terrace, but my dad says that my gran was born in Brick Row. I don't know if the street names had changed, any info would be very much appreciated, thanks.
Wed Jan 31 08:53:52 2007
Lee Murphy - Pontardulais/Hendy
I would be very interested for any information on The Glynhir Tinplate industry from 1910 to present day. I am currently employed by Macmillan Distribution who currently distribute books at this site.
Fri Oct 13 08:59:50 2006
Margaret Black, Cheshire
Hello,
I am currently researching my family tree and I have discovered that one of my great grandfathers brothers and his family lived on St Teilo Street at the 1901 Census. His name is Edward Jones and he has been described as a shopkeeper/tea dealer. His wife was called Catherine Matilda (nee Harper) and according to the Census, they had three sons working in the tin plating industry. The Eldest, Alfred, described as a tinplate worker, the next son, Stephen, working as a tinplate works greaser and the youngest, Luther, working as a tinplate works cold roll boy. I would dearly love to find a glossary of what these terms were used to describe. I am fascinated by the story of the church. I would love to have access to some of the old photographs of that time but I dont know where to go to look for the best. Edward was born Flint Mountain, Catherine was born in Cornwall to a Copper Miner who came to Halkyn to work in the lead mines and all of Edwards and Catherines children were born in Pontardulais in the Civil Parish of Llandeilo, Talybont.
If you are able to help me in my search I would be very grateful.
Regards Margaret
Mon May 22 10:06:52 2006
Ronald John Saunders, Llanelli
Thanks Gwyn.
Am researching into the bridges of Carmarthenshire for a lecture to be given to the Carmarthenshire Antiquarian Society and would be grateful for any further info/photos/reminiscences etc of the Pontardulais/Hendy area bridges - Eleven Arches or other road/rail bridges - Loughor, Ammanford, Llanelli etc - or contacts that could help me with my research.
Thanking you in anticipation for your help.
Ronald John Saunders
Mon May 15 10:05:34 2006
Paul Mainwaring
Thanks Gwyn for your enlightening story...Would you have any data on Daniel Isaac and Thomas Mainwaring who were arrested in the riots...I would love to know more on them...Thanks again...
Sat Apr 1 09:01:15 2006
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