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Programme 1: Selling landscape

Ffion Rees This BBC Wales series, narrated by Huw Edwards, looks at a county which, over centuries, has charmed generations of inhabitants and visitors alike.

This programme first broadcast Tuesday 25 Jan 2005

Pembrokeshire is undoubtedly one of the most distinctive and enchanting parts of Wales. Spiritually, it is at the heart of Wales, the centre of religious and cultural lay lines reaching far back into our Celtic and pre-Celtic past.

Physically, it contains some of the oldest landscapes in the world, spectacularly eroded into forms which have inspired pilgrims, mystics, poets and artists, and which attract thousands of visitors each year.

The county contains a community which has seen a wave of change over the years, where adapting is a necessity in order to survive and prosper. The series takes in the county from St Davids up to the Gwaun Valley. Less commercialised and far more Welsh than the area south of the landsker (the linguistic fault line dividing north Pembrokeshire from south), the area is heavily dependent on the mixed blessing of tourism, a highly seasonal form of income.

The St Davids area has always attracted peoplelooking to fulfil a personal dream, from the time of the saints to the present day. The series explores how this unique area is coping with the challenges of change, through the lives of six individuals or families who live in this stunning landscape.

Strumble Head lighthouseThe first of the six programmes meets local businessman John Price. Having built up an enormously successful business running boat trips around the coast and islands, he is all too aware of the seasonal aspect of the business. By expanding into boat building and more recently building and selling houses, he is overcoming the problem and is able to provide year-round employment for his staff. He is also more than aware that the landscape is at the root of all he does.

"The landscape is what drives all of the interests and all that we do," he says. "It feeds us and it feeds all the people who work for us, with us, it feeds the whole community... Not only is it beautiful, not only can you enjoy it but it is also our supplier. It gives us all that we need."

"The boat business I really do love. They run the Pembrokeshire islands. There are 50 sailing today, at the peak of summer. They start at four in the morning and run till dusk. It's like running a small airport. There are 20 people running the business, keeping it fuelled, keeping it running... a beauty to watch. I'm proud of it, very proud of it indeed."

Ffion ReesJohn is a key figure in a wave of prosperity which is engulfing the St Davids area. But waves have two sides - bringing benefits and drawbacks in their wake. Traditional industries, such as fishing and farming, are in decline. Second homes are endemic; property prices can reach £400,000. Locals, especially youngsters, are being squeezed out. John's chief skipper, Ffion Rees, is luckier than most - she lives in a council house. Having gained a First Class degree in German the charismatic local girl returned to her much -loved home of Pembrokeshire. As chief-skipper, she relies on the tourist trade for a living.

"Tourists? Love them and hate them! Yes they're my bread and butter and it is a very lively place in the summer and there's a lot of young people come down as well. I work every day of the summer season so I don't see the summer crowds."

But in the pub with her friends, the talk is of whole hamlets turning into ghost towns in winter, as all the houses are holiday homes. Even those friends earning good money have no chance of making a first step on to the property ladder, so high are the house prices.

House overlooking PorthclaisRussell Harries QC knows how privileged he is. He is the owner of what must truly be one of the gems of Pembrokeshire, a perfect picture-postcard whitewashed cottage high above Porthclais harbour. The youngest QC in Wales, originally from the Valleys, Russell and his wife live and work in London and spend weekends and holidays at their dream cottage.

"The contrast is everything, and to be honest the contrast is what keeps you going in London," he says. "We both work fantastically long hours in London... and the thing that keeps me going at least is knowing that we can just nip in the car down the M4 and we're here. It's quiet, there's nobody else around.... The thought of that certainly keeps me going when I'm on day 43 of a public inquiry in Grimsby staying in a not- very-nice hotel. And the community here is fantastic."

John Price has a generous view of those who've moved into the area - after all, his estate agent's and building company is an integral side of his business, keeping his employers in work over the winter months.

"Some wonderful people over the past few years have moved down and they've become friends," he says. "They've integrated well into the community. Some years ago, ten or 15 years ago, there was the danger of them and us - people who were possibly more affluent and more educated in some cases than ourselves. Those barriers have now gone. It is now one community pulling together with that mix, that diversity of skills and background."

  • 'Pembrokeshire, Land of Dreams' is an Element production for BBC Wales.


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