The Glamorgan Heritage Coast is sandwiched between Swansea and Cardiff, and it has a lot to offer - woodland walks, castles, picturesque villages, fossils and fantastic beaches. This walk is a combination of two shorter walk stuck together, it will take us all the way around the coast from Merthyr Mawr to Southerndown.

This is a pretty big walk, and it can be quite easy to get lost in the sand dunes, so accompanying Derek this time is Belinda Ashton, a Ranger for the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, who runs the visitors centre at Southerndown and used to patrol the dunes at Merthyr Mawr.

Before you head into the dunes though, there are some ruins to explore.

Candlestone Castle is a fortified manor house which dates back to the 12th Century and was owned by the Cantaloupe family, but it is now home to bats instead; hidden away amid the trees it is easy to miss.

The first challenge on this walk is known locally as the 'big dipper'.

If you think walking up this giant sand dune is really hard work, then you might be shocked to know that lots of people come here specifically to run up it - although these tend to be international athletes and sportspeople (the Welsh rugby team for example have been known to do it as part of a training run).

The climb up the sand is a bit of a strength sapper and is hard on the knees but if you don't fancy it, don't worry - there are plenty of easier ways up on to the dunes.

The dipper is actually the second highest dune in Europe, and it is the start of the annual Merthyr Mawr Christmas pudding race (you get one if you finish the 10 kilometre course).

This unique environment was once part of the largest dune system in Europe and it stretched right along the coast down to the Mumbles in Swansea. However it's a place that's always in a state of flux.

A hundred years ago sand threatened to engulf nearby Merthyr Mawr after rabbits had stripped the ground of the vegetation holding the dunes together. Buckthorn bushes were planted to stabilise the sand, the planting worked, but now it's the dunes that have to be protected from the buckthorn which is over-grown and threatening to take over.

Derek says... It's goodbye to the dunes and hello Merthyr Mawr, a pretty little chocolate box village, there are no modern buildings here and it's like walking on to a film set. I don't know, roses around the cottage doors, thatched roofs, cream teas are we in Wales or Cornwall, still there is no better place to stop for a break.

Merthyr Mawr is a fantastic jewel of a place and one with a colourful history - a former pub landlord for instance was famous for murdering customers and burying them in the back garden!

The next stop on the walk is Ogmore Castle but to get to it you need to cross the River Ewenny, and you can use the 52 stepping stones to get across.

But make sure you check the tide times before you head out on the walk - you don't want to end up in the river. If you don't fancy the stepping stones there is a bridge further up river which makes things a lot easier.

The castle was established in 1116 by William de Londres, and was part of the Norman system of fortifications. The castle also marks the end of the first walk on this route, but if you want to carry on there is plenty more to see as we carry on around the coast.

Derek says... You can write off a solid hour on this stretch of the walk but with its giddy drops and dramatic sea views it's a great place to suck in the sea air and soak up some gorgeous coastal views. Be warned though keep to the paths.

The second half of the walk is all about sea air and sea views as you pass through small sandy bays and sheep filled fields. In recent years choughs have been spotted along this part of the route, so keep your eyes and ears open for them.

A bit further around the coast is Southerndown and that marks the end of this walk.

It is a family friendly beach, popular with walkers and surfers alike, enjoying both the land and the sea.

Before we finish though there is time to visit Dunraven Park.

Pass through the big gates near the beach car park and keep heading up the path for what's arguably the best view in Wales.

On the way up try and pop into the walled garden which is all that remains of Dunraven Castle which was built in 1802, and later demolished in the 1960s...

Belinda says... The house was pulled down mainly because the family couldn't afford the up keep. It is the lesser of two evils, if the house was still there and people were living in it then we wouldn't be walking where we are now or the surrounding area.

You could spend hours wandering around the gardens and the ruins of the old castle, as well as visiting the Iron Age hillfort which is located at the top of the cliffs, but there are some truly spectacular views to be seen from up here too...

Derek says... Well Belinda you dragged me on this big long walk and I wasn't expecting this, that's absolutely fantastic, the best view I've ever seen in Wales.

The view is truly spectacular but if you want to get up close and personal with the fossils on the beach and this quiet and beautiful bay then there is a single track path that takes you down onto the rocks and sand.

But while Southerndown beach is open to the public, remember the tides. The Bristol Channel has the second highest tidal range in the world and it is easy to get caught out by it, so be aware of the tide times.

The walk along the Glamorgan Heritage Coast has some great places on offer; sand dunes, fortified manors, castles, woodland, picturesque villages, tremendous cliffs and beautiful beaches, so no matter how many times you come back here there will always be something else to see.

For more details, see www.glamorganheritagecoast.com

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