Directions: OS Reference SH 701419

An intermediate walk, about a four-mile round trip from the village of Llan Ffestiniog. Dramatic in all weathers but at its very best after rain has filled the cataracts. You will need waterproofs in wet weather and mind the slippery stone steps and bridge crossing the river.

Start the walk from the village centre outside the church and Pengwern Arms. The A470 runs right through the village which lies just south of the famous slate town of Blaneau Ffestiniog. From the pub head up the main road, passing the village school and turn right before the railway bridge. Ducking past slate fences along a trail that leads you in and out of a local farm, the path soon opens up onto rolling hills behind the village.

Head down through the fields and follow the sign posted route which clings to the valley slopes. Here, parts of the walk overlook a steep slide to the river but it shouldn't prove too difficult for inexperienced walkers. You'll see some spectacular mountain views but the real treat begins when you cross the grazing fields and pasture to the Cynfal forest.

Legends

As well as myths and legends, the walk had some more modern tales to tell. Twm Elias recounted the story of an untrustworthy Scottish gamekeeper who met an untimely end.

One famous tree marks the spot where a local farmer was murdered on his way back from the market.

His heelmarks are said to be branded into the tree - the tree which he put his back against as he defended himself from his two murderous attackers.

Another tale is about how Huw Llwyd tricked the Devil into trying to smoke his gun. There was a mighty bang... the Devil pulled the barrel from his mouth and said: "Huw Llwyd - This is wonderful stuff! I'm going to adopt it as my very own! This is why tobacco is aptly named 'the Devil's weed'

Derek Brockway says...
This is a stunning walk through woodland to the dramatic Cynfal Falls or Rhaeadr Cynfal and is only a stone's throw from the village of Llan Ffestiniog. It is a great walk in late Autumn when the leaves are changing colour.

There really is a magical feel about this place, especially on a misty October morning, with strange giant mushrooms growing up along the path.

It's easy to imagine how the legendary exorcist and mystic Huw Llwyd cast a spell over the local congregation.

This is a unique environment: many of the plants found here can only survive where these ancient trees lock in the moisture-laden atmosphere of the river gorge. I just love the ferns and the luscious green mosses that thrive in the moist air, carpet the river banks and cover the trees.

The sound of the river thundering its way through the gorge is amazing but it is also a very peaceful walk with only the odd stray hoot from the Blaenau Ffestiniog train to interrupt the birdsong and waterfalls cascading their way down the valley.

On a misty morning, with the bare-headed trees turned silver by lichen and with strange giant mushrooms growing up along the path, it was easy to imagine Twm's tales of mythology taking place there - Derek coined the phrase "a Lord of the Rings type of landscape" to convey the magical, mystical atmosphere of the place.

Twm Elias - Plas Tan-y-Bwlch Environmental Studies Centre says....
This gorge is one of those magical places that will not let you forget its dramatic waterfalls, Rhaeadr Ddu and Rhaeadr Cynfal, and Huw Llwyd's Pulpit, that strange rock pillar in the river.

Huw Llwyd was an early 17th-century soldier, whose writings on military strategy were studied by Napoleon Bonaparte. He was also a renowned poet and healer, though more of a magician than physician in his methods!

He would baptise people in the river and, from above in his 'Pulpit', would cast out his patients' demons and hurl them to the oblivion below!

(This walk was also done as part of the Radio Wales Weatherman Walking series 1 in 2002)