Walking around Anglesey's coastline was a great experience for me. I walked completely around Wales three years ago, a journey of 1,000 miles - and Anglesey stands out in my memory for many reasons.
I saw more wildlife there than anywhere else - a school of porpoises emerged from the water so quickly and unexpectedly I nearly dropped my sandwich as I enjoyed lunch on a rocky outcrop near Bull Bay. Those fish were so close I could see every marking - and they moved about so quickly they reminded me of eels in a bucket.
I saw an albino seal mooching around lazily in the clear water below Llam Carw, a promontory near Amlwch, and droves of gannets plunging into the water near Ynys Moelfre on a blustery Spring morning. A yellowhammer flashing through the trees near Dulas, choughs on Holy Island, and flocks of seabirds everywhere - the birdlife seemed more abundant than anywhere else in Wales.
Many of the beaches are very popular - but Anglesey has many tucked-away coves which are visited by few people, and seem almost untouched by man.
Strangely, it took me much longer to walk around the island than I expected; it seems to have its own dimensions of time and space. I met few people.
The most popular beach, probably, is Newborough, which leads to the mysterious lovers' island - Llanddwyn.
But if you want a large expanse of sand dunes, laid out like miniature mountain ranges, ideal for hide and seek, choose Aberffraw.
Here are my favourite places on the 125-mile coastline of Anglesey:
- Beaumaris - lots of attractions including a castle, a jail and a courthouse.
- Penmon Priory and the eastern tip: historic holy site, and places where you can wander near the lighthouse, with a great view of Puffin Island.
- Llanddona beach - at the less crowded end of the beautiful Red Wharf Bay, this lovely beach has its own treasures, including the Bryn Offa wildlife area.
- The coastal path from Benllech to Traeth Bychan, perched on the cliffs, is a little gem.
- Visit Amlwch Port for a taste of the island's maritime past - and it has its own little museum.
- Cemaes is a pretty little town with varied beaches - close by is Llanbadrig Church, nestling on the scenic coastal path, and the old brickworks give the nearby bay at Porth Wen a fantastical quality.
- South Stack, with its famous lighthouse and birdlife, is a must - but venture onto North Stack if you want solitude.
- Barclodiad y Gawres - an incredibly old and mystical molehill-like chambered tomb near Rhosneigr, will take you deep into the past.
- St Cwyfan's Church, perched on its little island in Porth Cwyfan, will take you back to the age of the Welsh saints.
- And for a taste of luxury, visit Plas Newydd, the National Trust's stately home on the banks of the Menai Straits.
There's something special about islands - and Anglesey has a special place in my heart.
your comments
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John form Rhyl
Walked the main island over four days in June 2008 with a friend. Very long days but the best walking, plenty of wildlife and very few people on the coastal path. If you like peace and tranquility Anglesey Coastal Path is the place to visit. We carried our tent and pitched on rough ground with no problems. Picked up food and water along the way. Missed Holy Island due to time constraints but intend completing it in mid May. I would encourage anyone who likes a challenge to complete this beautiful walk and if time allows take longer. The only negative comment,some farmers ploughed fields up to the hedgerows, thus ploughing the official path which made walking slower and the path very uneven. For reference used The Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path by Carl Rogers and a 12 map guide purchased from Wales Tourist Board in Llanfair PG. Excellent guide.
Tue May 5 10:00:22 2009
Debbie Wall
Aussie Emyr, I wouldn't call David Tomley a whinging 'pom'. Surely this site is supposed to offer constructive rather than abusive comment? I am Welsh and I agree about the guide.If monies were available, it may be easier for walkers if 'separate' books were produced in Welsh,and in English. I like to travel light too. I couldn't recommend Anglesey more;it's a beautiful place. I hope that the landowner issue can be sorted out and the path can be truly 'coastal'.
Mon Apr 21 10:44:34 2008
Carl Hussey from Anglesey
I have just completed walks 11,12,13,14 and 15 from the book "Coastal walks around Anglesey volume 1" by Carl Rogers. Buy this book, read it and go walking with it! Amazing walks, fantastic, even spiritual scenery that gets you away from our microwave fast paced society! Carl Rogers you are a real star for sharing these walks with the rest of us!
Thu Apr 10 10:06:10 2008
Emyr Lewis, Australia
Mr David Tomley - they give you an English translation af the Welsh guide and like a typical “pom” you whinge about it! How many Welsh translations have you come across in England? I do agree with you that farmers should be compelled to give access to complete the costal walkway though.
Mon Feb 18 10:42:08 2008
David Tomley
The Anglesey Coastal Path (ACP) needs more websites like yours where people who have walked the walk can relate their experiences. This would help those thinking of doing similar and could help those in charge improve the present situation.My friend and I walked the whole path in 8 days in late March 2007. We carried our packs and stayed in B&Bs as we progressed anti-clockwise around the island.Clearly, walkers such as ourselves, who are carrying their packs, need information about B&Bs or pubs that are actually on the ACP - not ones that are a couple of miles off it! AND such walkers, I suggest, need no information about self catering accommodation!I would without hesitation recommend the ACP. It has great variety of terrain; opportunity to see wonderful wildlife and scenery, but at present it has serious drawbacks. These include the unwillingness of landowners to allow access and so cause the ACP to move away from the coast. These deviations are along dangerous roads with no footways. Further, the official guide suggests waiting for a bus to transport one along such roads - this where buses are as rare as hen's teeth. Can not pressure be exercised to persuade these (in some cases absent) landowners to permit access to their land?Why does the official handbook describe the walk in an anti-clockwise direction and the 12 little plasticised (good) maps take a clockwise direction? I understand for political reasons that the official guide has to be in two languages - but to those walking the ACP - half of the book and therefore half of the weight is redundant!
Fri Apr 13 11:42:27 2007
Deb, Leicester
I recently (end of March 07) completed the Anglesey coastal walk with my walking partner David and our backpacks. We did it over 8 days, out of season, (what I don't know about locked 'seasonal' toilets!) and in great weather. It was a fantastic experience and I would recommend it to anyone who wants a 'get away from it all' holiday.There are naturally beautiful and unspoilt places all along the way (eg section to Aberffraw on a sunny day) as well as the historic - from burial mounds to brickworks. Anyone thinking of walking the whole path in one go needs to be aware of issues with landowners (eg no path along Plas Newydd stretch of Menai). We did a few miles of (dangerous)walking along the main road, rather than wait 4 hours for a bus!
Wed Apr 11 16:10:42 2007
Michael from Berkshire
Have seen porpoises on 3 visits out of 4. The old brick works at Porth Wen, one of my fav places. Wild life around every corner and the coast walks are superb. Would love to walk it all and in all seasons.
Mon Nov 27 11:09:45 2006
Richard, Shrewsbury
My wife and I teamed up with three friends to walk the six or seven miles from Bull Bay to Caemaes Bay only last week. It was a fabulous undulating walk with stunning sea and cliff-scape scenery. We too spotted porpoise (or were they dolphins) just off shore near Bull Bay. I was so inspired by this short stretch, I'm planning a six day sol blitz on the entire 125-miles in the spring. Any tips on best guide books/maps/b&b accommo lists etc., would be most welcome.
Tue Oct 17 09:40:38 2006
Tell us about your favourite parts of the Anglesey coast route.
