If you only visit one Iron Age site in Wales, perhaps it should be the spectactular hillfort of Tre'r Ceiri, meaning 'Town of the Giants'. Often said to be the most impressive hillfort in north Wales, there are significant stone ramparts surrounding its entire circuit, and in places still standing to over 3m in height.
The views are amazing too the fort occupies one of the peaks of the Rivals (Yr Eifl). The interior is packed with walled stone buildings and the remains of 150 huts can be seen with some walls still standing over 1m high. Some are roundhouses, others are rectangular and oval. The huts are grouped together in four or five bands across the fort. They vary in size and shape some of the round ones are 8m across, others less than 3m.
Set on the narrow summit of the hill, the site encloses about 2.5ha with the main entrance at the lower, west end. Another entrance can be found on the north and both entrances have been conserved. The site is topped by a Bronze Age cairn.
Directions
Take the A499 north of Pwllheli. At Llanaelhaearn, take B4417 towards Nefyn. Less than a mile from the junction for the B4417, there is a footpath on your right, taking you up the hill to Trer Ceiri. Be aware that parking space is extremely limited. Be careful not to dislodge any stones on the site.
your comments
Bryan Powell, Llanaelhaearn
I moved to Llanaelhaearn in 2009. I have been to the top of Tre Ceiri twice. It is so poorly publicised, no brown signposts, no advertisement. When you get to the top it is magnificent. Water on three sides and a view to Ireland. The people who constructed this must have been amazing. The remains of the huts are enormous. I can see the fort from my cottage it is brilliant, and needs more public profile.
Thu Jun 11 09:24:51 2009
Joel Charles from Tucson, AZ USA
My brother Jack and I visited our ancestral homeland in May, 1994 and were graciously hosted by our "long lost" cousin Beryl and her husband Elwyn. I had a crazy dream of writing a novel about people like our Welsh ancestors who emigrated to the Utica, NY area in the early 1800's. To do so with justice, I felt it needful to visit as many parts of the countryside as possible. Since our ancestry originated in the Llyn, we had a strong desire to go there.
Our cousins drove us through Carnarvon and down the road to Aberdaron, with a stop at Tre'r Ceiri on our way at my request. Jack, Elwyn and I hiked up to the fort where, winded and cold on a bright blue skied Welsh May day, we stood where the ancients once played, traded and walked down for water. What a view! Unfortunately, the battery on my camera died early, and I have few good photos, but what memories...
We went on down to Aberdaron, stopped at Ciarl Mark's grave and the church he helped found, and the church in which he was married in Aberdaron. We looked out on Enlli in the misty sea, and then returned to their home. We hired a car and returned a few days later, to stay in Aberdarn.
Tue Feb 17 09:23:52 2009
Paula Blackburn from Blackburn (originally from Tr
I remember going up all three of the mountains with my school back in late 1980s and nearly falling off. And picking all the berries of the hillside. You can see my mum's house from the top.
Fri Jan 23 14:16:53 2009
Dave Hill, Criccieth.
I'm up here sheltering behind some rocks from the cold daggers of the gusting Welsh wind. The sky is clear and I can see for ever in every direction. Ferries on one horizon chugging over to Ireland. The islands down at the end of the Llyn. The snowy top of Snowdon & its accompanying peaks. Anglesey over to my right. This place is amazing. Totally. After I puffed my way up here, & with the endorphins making my brain buzz, I'm imagining a 'living' village 2000 years old. Kids shouting whilst playing, smoke rising from the roofs of the humble huts, people building walls & repairing the defences & all that vast amount of time has passed. It really does help to put life into perspective. Right, off back down for a brew.
Mon Nov 3 09:56:11 2008
Ian Cottom from York
I remember the hill fort with some trepidation. Way back in the 60s my family took a holiday cottage in Llanaelhaearn and one day I casually decided to climb up (in my sandals!) to the top via the quarry side. As I slowly edged my way up the gaping chasm of the quarry loomed up out of the falling mist - I was terrified, needless to say and followed a sheep track to the summit clutching tufts of grass. To my relief the stone circles loomed up in the failing light. I edged my way to an obvious path and putting the eerie scene behind me. I scurried down to the village remarking that I'd just been for a little stroll - Phew! some stroll which taught me never to do anything so daft again. I never did really see the fort at Trei Ceiri - shame!
Mon Jul 14 10:10:18 2008
Rowena Thomson, Glasgow
We recently had an archaeology trip to Wales. The round drilled holes show which stones were reconstructed or put bk up in place
Thu Mar 27 10:06:25 2008
Steve Jones, Aberdaron
I've just moved home to Wales and took two mates up there. It was a first for us all and what a fantastic place to visit. We had great weather and views were splendid. I see another visitor has asked this question, what are the small circular drill holes in many of the stones on the ramparts? Are they modern (they seem perfectly made) or old? What are they for? It puzzled the three of us.
Mon Mar 17 11:33:46 2008
Sarah Clarke from Pontefract, West Yorkshire
We walked up to Tre'r Ceiri this August one bright and breezy morning. We had parked in the second (smaller) lay-by on the Llanaelhaearn to Llithfaen road which is only 20 yards from the public footpath sign. The climb up took about 50 minutes; our 5 year old virtually ran up whilst his mum staggered some distance behind. Views from the top were stunning. The 3 signboards on the site had illustrations of how the fort might have looked, which helped with our son's appreciation. Purple heather and yellow gorse filled the hut circles and fingers turned purple with bilberry juice. Highly recommended!
Wed Aug 15 09:30:28 2007
James from Y Felinheli!
I don't know if you are aware but Tre'r Ceiri means Town of the Forts and not giants, which is 'cewri.'
Tue Jul 10 09:17:19 2007
Stuart Buchan
I visited this impressive hill fort recently with friends. i was suprised how little it is publicised locally. no signs.i was half expecting a few stones on top of a hill. i was amazed how much there was on this site when i got there. i wasn't able to explore the whole site as the heavens opened and we had to hastilly leave. if you do visit check the weather reports first!!
Mon Jul 9 09:39:26 2007
Helen Kent from Swansea
We were visiting family in Nefyn over the school holidays and found this site about Tre'r Ceiri which made it sound rather interesting and unlikely to be crowded. It was a manageable walk up for my daughters of 4 and 7 on a warm hazy day, but it took only an hour, with fantastic, unhindered views. The site linked in with the current topics at school and helped to make history more real. (With the impressively wide views from above, we covered a bit of local economy too.) I recommend it if you like a your exercise away from the masses, combined with discovering history in the environment.The book we had with directions referred to the start of the walk being a kissing gate on a lay-by, but that is now closed and a newer gate is about 200m up the road towards the brow of the hill.
Fri Apr 20 09:46:43 2007
Matt Luxford from Essex England
I visited Tre'r Ceiri as a child and saw through a child's eyes the wonder of an ancient human settlement, bathed in the evening golden dazzle of sunset over the sea. I remember my mum asking us all to be still and quiet and to listen to the silence of the place. The visit has always remained with me. Truly a magnificent site that breathes the past straight into your lungs.
We also swam in fairy glen, it was cold and when we got out, the wind that blew through the gorge was warm on our chilled skin. We walked around Snowdonia and had a few splendid days at Porth Nefyn.
Mon Feb 12 10:42:10 2007
Keith Barratt from Abersoch
How jealously the knowledge of Tre'r Ceiri Iron Age hill fort seems to be guarded! I found it many, many years ago before the excellent and sensitive conservation work was done on it. I simply walked up Yr Eifl, with no concept of what I would find on top. What I saw and how I felt about that reminder of an element of my Celtic ancestor has stayed with me ever since.
It is not the cold stones of the place alone that excite, but the sense of a place where people lived out their lives and the real presence of a human habitation. Of all our ancient monuments, from the unfathomable mysteries of Avebury and Stonehenge, to the bleak inner walls of our castles, nowhere brings you closer to wanting to understand the everyday lives of those who lived in the small hut circles of Tre'r Ceiri. You want to know because enough remains to give you a feeling that the human presence is still there, if only you could get a glimpse of it through a brief lifting of time's mist. It was in mist that I visited it for a second time. The result was dramatic. The moving light and shade that shrouded the place gave it a shadowy life that made me pleased that I had my collie dog along with me as a companion.
It is a wonderful site and so little visited and so little known for the quality of its preservation and the dramatic nature of its high position between sea and plains and mountains.
It can afford a few more visitors without suffering the consequences of some of our more popular archaeological sites. It is best seen in a mood when you do not just look at, but can also feel, the nature of the place.
Mon Mar 6 15:26:34 2006
