Moving west off the M6 onto the M54 and relative tranquility, my grip on the steering wheel relaxes a bit. By-passing leafy Shrewsbury the world is beginning to look magical. Hills become mountains, hedges to stone walls and streams to waterfalls.
In front of Cadair Idris the road drops steeply to Dolgellau with its listed buildings, and onwards along the Mawddach estuary. Scenery and superlatives build to a crescendo until you turn the corner and come to Barmouth.
Kiss-me-quick, seaside tack is the first impression, reinforced as you exit hurriedly north by miles and miles of caravan parks, so much metal and plastic amongst the ancient rocks and seascape.
But since my first visit I've mellowed and matured and know a much better way to approach and appreciate Barmouth. That beautiful scenic road along the edge of the estuary is relatively new, not being opened until 1798. If you like walking, the old road is better, high up in the hills.
From above Bontddu you can walk the course of the old coach road from London to Harlech. At one point there's a fork in the road with a milestone offering you a quick up-and-over route to Harlech or a longer but more gentle route via Talybont. I took the Talybont turn and thence a spur off to Barmouth.
This took me on to Barmouth and, when I say on, I mean on top of! Clinging precariously to the cliffs are some wonderful old buildings approached by steep and twisty little lanes that should by rights be cobbled. You're so close to windows and doors it's impossible not to be nosy. This part of town is called The Rock. The gardens are terraced and have great views.
Above The Rock is The Frenchman's Grave. An educationalist and philosopher exiled from France, Auguste Guyard shared similar beliefs to the likes of John Ruskin that there should be social justice such as housing and education for the underprivileged. Guyard was renowned for his gardening skills and knowledge of medicinal plants and these terraced gardens might have been tended or inspired by him.
He was a tenant of Fanny Talbot who did many good works for the local people, including donating several cottages for use by impoverished people. These were known as the Ruskin Cottages. She is also famous for being the first person to donate land to the National Trust. The five-acre stretch of land above The Rock called Dinas Oleu was donated so that its spectacular views could be enjoyed in perpetuity by all.
Read on.
