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Capital of the north

Hope Street, Wrexham

Last updated: 27 February 2009

Local historian Alister Williams has published The Encyclopaedia of Wrexham, a definitive guide to the town. In the following extract he explains how Wrexham has developed over the years...

Wrexham is regarded by many as the unofficial capital of North Wales and is the largest town in the principality north of the Brecon Beacons.

Historically, it was the largest town in Wales until the advent of the Industrial Revolution brought about the expansion of Cardiff and the other heavily industrialised towns of south Wales.

The origins of Wrexham are concealed by the fog of history but we can be certain that it was founded at the crossroads of two major trading routes, and that its role always has been that of a market town.

The north-south link along the Welsh March ran through the town, and the east-west route from the uplands of Wales to the more heavily populated areas of England breached the hills at Bwlchgwyn and on to the Midlands over the river Dee at Holt.

Beasts at the marketBrook Street, Wrexham
Cattle, sheep and other livestock reared in North Wales passed through Wrexham and resulted in the growth of an animal market, which in turn led to the establishment of other trades closely linked to it.

The survival of place names such as Tenters Square, is evidence of a once important cloth trade on the edges of the town, close to the river Gwenfro.

This was gradually replaced by the leather industry, but both were dependant upon the steady local supply of animal products.

It is no coincidence that, throughout its history, one of the most important features of the town has been the Forum Bestiale or Beast Market. It was only the development of new routes into north Wales (the A5 and A55 roads), linking London with the port of Holyhead (and thence Dublin) that caused a decline in the importance of Wrexham.

A centre for culture Wrexham town centre - today!
The town was also the focal point for an educated and cultured local society, originally centred on the Parish Church, which, in the mid 16th century, Bishop Parfew wanted to make the centre of his diocese in place of St Asaph (had his plans gone ahead, Wrexham would have been an ecclesiastical city for the last 450 years).

It was a town where the local gentry built their town houses in the area which we now call Mount Street.

If the evidence of place names is any guide, then Wrexham was also a strongly Welsh town with streets, houses, farms and fields almost without exception carrying Welsh names.

The Industrial Revolution and beyond
The advent of the Industrial Revolution brought a new importance to the Wrexham area.

Its hinterland abounded in mineral wealth, not only coal and iron ore but also limestone and lead and it was not long before the leading entrepreneurs of the day, such as the Wilkinsons who bought and expanded the Bersham Iron Works, began to focus their attention on east Denbighshire.

When asked to consider the coal industry in Wales most outsiders (and residents of south Wales) would probably overlook the contribution of north Wales, however some of the most significant mines were located here, mines such as Llay Main, at one time the deepest mine in Wales, employing the largest number of men.

Borough status for Wrexham
Such was the growth in the population of Wrexham during the 19th century that, in common with many other centres throughout Britain, it developed major problems in the realm of public health.

No sooner had the Board of Health Report been published than the forward-sighted citizens of Wrexham began to campaign for borough status.

Without corporate control there would be no means of stopping the proliferation of poor quality housing and the accompanying scourge of disease and high mortality figures.

Despite opposition from many who saw the incorporation of the Borough as merely a means for some of the citizens to line their own pockets, a new expense on the public purse, common sense prevailed and the Borough of Wrexham came into being in 1857.

The predicted extravagant spending on public buildings did not come about, instead the Council immediately set about tackling the problems of poor sanitation and highway control, improving the quality of life for its citizens.

By the end of the century, they had provided a clean water supply, paved the streets, laid out a new cemetery, taken control of the electricity and gas supplies and built public baths.

In the 20th century, as soon as central government passed laws to allow local authorities to assume greater responsibilities for the environment, Wrexham placed itself at the forefront with award winning developments such as the Acton Park Housing Estate of 1920, the clearance of slum housing and the redevelopment of derelict industrial sites.

Wrexham today
Today, with the establishment of a good road network (transport travelling to Holyhead from the Midlands is once again directed via Wrexham) the town has managed to reconstruct its economic base so that, despite the demise of heavy industry, it is once again a thriving commercial centre, attracting companies from all over the world to its industrial estates.

The expansion of education facilities in the town, even the growth of night-life in the area of High Street, has also led to the regeneration of Wrexham as a social and cultural regional centre.

Gone are the bomb sites and the derelict industrial buildings, Wrexham has fought its way back to being the capital of North Wales, the premier town in Wales north of the Brecon Beacons.

your comments

Joy Roberts
I wonder if anyone remembers Lindsays fish and chip shop. My grandfather's family owned it and I think it was in Abbot Street. I would love to know more about it.
Thu Mar 19 07:58:56 2009

Graham Phillips, Rhos
My mother Alwena Roberts worked on the pottery stall in the veg market in the fifties. It was owned by a Mrs Davies from Gresford. Two young girls assisted there. One was called Pamela. One day some scaffolding which was up to access interior roof repairs, collapsed injuring several workmen. Does anybody have info on this incident? My mother is long dead so I have nobody to ask.
Fri Feb 27 08:53:26 2009

Chistine Madsen
When I was landlady of the Red Dragon, Queens Park (1989-92), I was washing the pots in the lovely big flat above the pub when I saw a big brown bull running opposite my window! It had escaped from the beast market, poor thing, it was scared and very lovely to look at but dangerous too. I often wonder what happened next? I had to go downstairs and serve so I have no idea. (My grand-daughter is vegetarian and I could happily join her but for bacon butties!)
Mon Dec 29 09:29:23 2008

Sarah Barlow from Wimberley, Texas
I was researching Wrexham on the internet and found this article. My great grandfather was Thomas Bellis who came to the United States in the late 1800s. He owned a coal mine in Wrexham and later purchased one in West Virginia. I have often heard of Wrexham but have very little information about the Bellis family other that what my grandmother, Mary Bellis told me.
Wed Aug 13 07:53:45 2008

Rachel, Lancashire
Hi, Bellis' farm is part of my family. It belonged to Harriet Anne Bellis' family, we think, who is my great, great grandma. We have researched our family tree all the way back to 1827. My 7th great grandfather moved to Holt from Northumberland. How's that for history!
Mon Mar 3 09:07:13 2008

Larry Pritchard, Gresford
Christine Jones, Hampshire. A bomb did fall in Gresford. It fell behind the long row in Newtown. It had a delayed action on it. Local boys went to look at it until the headmaster came and told them to get to school. The bomb blew up in mid morning, killing a couple of people. The headmaster had saved the young boys by his action. Shrapnel marks can still be seen in the wall of the short row in Newtown.
Mon Feb 25 08:52:57 2008

Tracey Gough Wrexham
Vic Wilde, Southport. Hi Vic, I think your brother means Bellis farm in Holt, Wrexham. It is still going strong today, and includes a lovely coffee shop and has its own strawberry picking fields! I live approximately two miles away but was brought up in Cefn Mawr so sorry can't help you with any more information. Tracey x
Mon Mar 12 08:45:52 2007

Carl Thomas, Wrexham
Hi Liz from Barnsley. Crosville buses were bought up by Arriva. The outdoor Beast Market, as I know it, was across the road from Asda, near where the Tesco store is and has been built on by Mecca Bingo. The other market on the old Asda car park was always known to me to be the Monday Market.
Fri Mar 9 08:19:42 2007

Alison from Wrexham
I am looking into my family tree and have been told that my Great Grandparents ran a fish and chip shop around the York Street area of Wrexham during and after the 2nd World War. I would be grateful if you had any information. Thanks
Tue Oct 17 15:18:55 2006

Alister Williams
Responding to Liz from Barnsley: The Beast Market of the 1950s and 1960s still survives, although it is now often called St George's Crescent, located between the modern Tesco store and Charles Street. It is used as a car park but recently the fair was moved back there from Eagle's Meadow (which is now being redeveloped as a shopping precinct). The Monday market has moved to Queens Square, by the Guildhall.
Tue Oct 3 14:29:11 2006

Grace Thorne, Wrexham
Thanks for all the information I needed it to help my little cousin Hannah so thanks again and keep it up you are doing some good work on this website I recommend it to anyone who needs help learning about Wrexham. P.S I live in Rhos and I did not know all that, I have performed in the Stiwt, doing Hansel and Gretel!
Mon May 8 10:19:02 2006

Christine Jones Hampshire
I lived at Gresford until 1950 and would like to know about the bombs that were dropped in the village during the war
Thu Apr 6 10:41:51 2006

liz from barnsley
on visiting the town after 40-summat years, I was confused. Where was the "Beast Market" of the 1950s - 1960s? I recall a large expanse of tarmac that you could park on for free except on Mondays, when it was taken over by the Market Traders would set up stalls or shout their wares from lorries, anything from enamel "bowels" to carpet lengths to fruit & veg. I can`t quite trace the exact whereabouts these days. Nor what became of Crosville buses. Any ideas? Cheers, Liz
Sat Feb 25 22:59:31 2006

Callum of Wrexham
Very good, I liked the part about the cinemas.
Sun Oct 9 09:11:51 2005

Vic Wilde, Southport
Alister, My brother now 80 recalls visiting Bells Farm outside Wrexham, back in the late 1920s early 1930s. The farm was owned or rented by relatives the Bells or Wildes. Any help would be appreciated.
Fri Aug 26 19:16:09 2005

Tony Small formerly of Wrexham
Very interesting article. Can you tell me anything about the old Stansty forge? My great grandfather worked there as a blacksmith in the late 1800s, but I have been unable to find out anything about the place. Any information would be appreciated.
Fri Aug 19 14:42:57 2005

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