The church
The present church, St Mary's, was built between 1835 and 1837 at a cost of £1135, though there is thought to have been a church on the site since possibly as early as the 5th century. The architect was a John Welsh who designed Birmingham Town Hall and many churches on the Isle of Man. The style of the present church is Early English with five stained glass windows. In 1911 the old box pews were removed and replaced with the present seating.
The church bells were rung on all notable occasions. They were rung when William of Orange landed at Torbay on November 5 1688 and rung every year on that date for many years afterwards. A small bell that used to be in the tiny bell-cote on the old church tower was given to the school in 1816 and stolen from there in 1978.
The earliest register now in existence dates from 1662, the earlier registers having been burnt. The oldest piece of church plate is a chalice known as 'The cuppe of Ysceifiog' and dated 1633.
The Church Cross is said to date from the 15th century. Its broken shaft stands three feet two inches above the octagonal base. The marks on the base are said to have been made by archers sharpening their arrows. Parishioners were bound by Royal Command to practise archery after Divine service on Sundays and Holy Days at the time of the Plantagenets.
The chapel
A Methodist chapel called Gorffwysfa was built in Ysceifiog in 1928. This replaced the Fron Chapel, situated to the west of Ysceifiog, that was first built in 1804 and altered in 1876. Gorffwysfa closed in 1983 and is now a private house.
The school
Today the school building, comprising of two bays, is the village hall. Attached to the hall is what was once the School House. Here, until 1946, the head mistress lived. As early as 1792 there is reference to a charity school in Ysceifiog, the teacher was Anne Martin.
In the old days children used to walk many miles to attend school, many came from farms on the top of the Clwydian Hills. There were no school meals in those days or drying rooms for wet clothes. Clothes were dried on the guards in front of the two large iron stoves. Children would bring cold tea or butter milk in a can to drink with bread and cheese. In 1847 a Council School opened in the village of Lixwm and when Ysceifiog School closed the children were transferred there.
Ysceifiog School closed in 1946, it was the first school in Flintshire to close under the new Education Act that required all schools to be modernised. A great deal of work would have been required to bring the building up to date and there was no room to enlarge it.
In the early days Ysceifiog School always had a headmaster and two mistresses. When it closed in 1946 there was just one teacher, Miss W. Griffiths, who lived in the School House.
Inns
At one time Ysceifiog village had three inns:
- The Fox
- The Blue Hound
- The Talbot
Today only the Fox Inn remains. The Fox was built around 1730 and named after a family called Fox from County Kildare in Ireland. About that time the heiress of one of Ysceifiog's local estates, an Elizabeth Williams of Colomendy, married Ignatius Fox, an industrialist from County Kildare.
The Blue Hound, a very ancient building, was situated where the children's playground is today. It later became four cottages, the last of which was demolished in 1974. Attached to the inn was the old 'pinfold' where stray animals were kept and later where illegal cock fighting took place. This was also demolished in 1974.
The Talbot is now a private house. It took its name from the crest and supporters (talbots) of the Grosvenor family, Dukes of Westminster who came into possession of a lot of land in the area in 1704.
Shops
At one time there were three shops in the village:
- Park Shop
- Liverpool House
- A tiny sweet shop in Northgate Terrace
Park Shop was built in 1882 and closed in 1918. It was a general shop and bake house. Today it is two private houses.
Liverpool House, later known as Sycamore Stores, housed the village Post Office from 1878.
Before a Post Office was established in the village, a postman, who lived in Ysceifiog, walked down to Holywell (a round trip of nine miles). After collecting the mail from the Post Office there he would bring it back to Ysceifiog to deliver it. After his delivery he would sit in a wooden hut opposite the shop selling stamps and repairing shoes before returning to Holywell with the mail in the evening.
Some people of note
- William Edwards (the Bard of Ysceifiog) 1790-1855. Born in Caerwys of Ysceifiog ancestry he spent most of his life in Ysceifiog living in a house at Ffynnon Fair. He worked at the mill there and at other local mills as a millwright. He is buried in St Mary's church yard where there is a monument to him.
- John Owen (Berthengron), founder of the Methodist cause and the first chapel in Flintshire he was persecuted for his faith. He was appointed church warden at Ysceifiog against his wishes and buried there after his death in 1776.
- Rowland Williams, theologian and son of the Rev Roland Williams, Rector of Ysceifiog who had the present church built in 1836.
- Robin Ddu, born about 1430 and died about 1480, a poet and a prophet. He visited Ysceifiog many times, forecast global warming and said a time would come when mankind would not know the difference between the seasons.
- Guy Fawkes, born 1570 and died in 1606. There is an unproven tradition that he came through Ysceifiog on his way to Holywell on a pilgrimage to St Winefride's Well shortly before he took part in the Gunpowder Plot.
In those days Ysceifiog was on an important road. First an ancient track way, then a pilgrim's way, next an Elizabethan pack horse road and later a coach road. What are now lanes and bridle paths were once part of a network linking London. With the coming of toll roads the village became a backwater and in consequence never grew.
Customs and traditions
There is a cave on the Pant Gwyn stream near Ffynnon Fair where it is said that King Arthur sleeps, awaiting the call of the Welsh nation.
Ysceifiog was noted for its white witches. One died in the parish in 1932 and others lived here as late as 1938.
Funeral parties used to walk behind the coffin to church. They would halt and recite the Lord's Prayer at every cross roads. This is thought to be a reminder of the day when there were actual crosses there. After these were destroyed trees were often planted in their place. The funeral party would stop again at the church gate and pray again before entering the building. Today the Rector meets the family mourners and the coffin at the church gate and walks ahead to the church, saying a prayer.
your comments
Ian Williams, Carmel
We lived in number 1 Northgate Terrace in the sixties. If I remember rightly there were six children plus our mother and father. I always remember my father had to carry fresh water from the tap at the top of the path. There was plenty of places for kids to play. We moved to a bigger house in Lixwm where my brother still lives.
Wed Apr 15 10:35:56 2009
Marion James
Does anyone have any info on the James family living in Ysceifiog in the 1800s? Grateful for any info.
Tue Apr 14 11:37:50 2009
Marion James, Skelmersdale
I am researcing my family history and have come across relatives from Ysceifiog: their names were Richard James married Mary Joynson in the parish church of Hawarden. Any info on these places would be grateful.
Tue Apr 14 11:37:13 2009
Bob Sargent from Sussex
I have wonderful memories of Ysceifiog. As a busman in the 1970s I had to take the papers on my bus from Flint depot and deliver them to the village shops on route, one of those villages was Ysceifiog. I did enjoy those country rides.
Wed Jan 7 08:48:37 2009
Carol Horne nee Evans from Liverpool
I was born in Denbigh Royal Infirmary April 1948 and lived in the cottages that were knocked down to build the play area. We left around 1954 to go to Liverpool. My father, Samuel Evans, was from the area and his father lived in the Northgate dwellings. I can only remember there being three kids in the village; me, my brother, Allan, and a lad with the surname Messic from the general store which was up by the church and Wil Marion having the farm at the bottom who, I think, was my godfather.
Mon Jan 5 09:00:07 2009
Trevor Ames
Lee, I'd be very interested to talk to you off line. I too have the tree going back to 1700. You can find me on Facebook if you'd like a chat.
Thu Dec 18 08:55:40 2008
Lee Ames
I think Glyn is talking about my father and his sister, my Aunt Lynn. My family still live locally and I have my family tree going back to the 1700s. It is interesting to read other people's memories of my family, and any information is great!
Mon Dec 15 08:17:27 2008
D Jenkins, Barnstaple
Yet another on the family history trail. First thought is how do you pronounce Ysceifiog? My maternal grandfather Edward Wynne Fox was born in Ysceifiog in about 1855 and described as occupation ostler in 1871. He had a brother Samuel who was a brewer's carter in the same year. With the name connection I would assume they both worked at the Fox Inn, will have to make sure I get up that way for a beer.
Fri Nov 14 08:30:07 2008
Trevor Ames from Manchester
If Lee Ames or Glyn Jones would like to know more about the Ames family in North Wales and their ties with Cae Gwyn I'd be pleased to hear from them. Not sure how we contact offline here but I'm sure there's a way? (Facebook, Genes Reunited?)
Thu Oct 30 15:58:51 2008
Mike Sullivan - Park House
Fascinating reading - I have lived at Park House since 1995 and have spent 1000s of hours restoring/maintaining it - it is a wonderful place and has always been a pleasure to try to keep it as original as possible - still needs some work doing but it's the history that I enjoy - in the lounge for instance you can tell where the counter must have been as the wooden floor has worn away either side of it. In the attic there is RW 1882 written in the plaster - we found loads of old pottery and medicine bottle buried when doing work outside. However, the house may well be for sale shortly - a wonderful piece of history, I hope someone enjoys it as much as I have.
Tue Sep 16 08:32:16 2008
Alan Jackson, Liverpool
My wife's 2 x great grandfather was born in Ysceifiog circa 1837. He married Dorothy (surname unknown) and in 1871 was resident in Cilcain. At that time he one daughter, Hannah, who died about 1873 aged 14, and four sons, Edward (aged 11), John (8), Joseph (4) (my wife's g/grandfather) and Bennet (1).
Mon Sep 1 09:25:59 2008
Glyn Jones
I lived at Pentre Farm, Ysceifiog, all my single life farming and have a vast knowledge of the area and I can remember Lee Ames and his sister visiting Cae Gwyn and we used to play in the hay with all my brothers and sisters. Ysceifiog church hall have a vast array of photographs displayed inside on the walls with many old and original copies. This is very interesting and brings back lots of memories.
Fri May 16 09:07:46 2008
Morgan from Lixwm
Very interesting. I am currently at the Lixwm primary school (nr Ysgeifiog).
Mon Feb 18 10:17:54 2008
Lee Ames, London
It was interesting to read George Hayes' comments on Cae Gwyn as this was where my grandfather was born, the son of Gabriel & Mabel Ames. My father's Aunt Mary and Uncle Elfid still live in the farm house and they visit regularly.
Mon Dec 17 08:38:10 2007
George Hayes from Bedford.
Born in Bootle, Liverpool. At the commencement of World War II, 1939, I was sent to Cae Gwyn, Ysceifiog to live with my uncle and aunt, Gabriel & Mabel Ames. I attended Ysceifiog school for about one year. I remember vividly the heavy fall of snow that first winter when the lanes were inaccessible, forcing us to go to school across the fields. The teachers were Miss Owen, Miss Griffiths and a student teacher. Many of the children had to walk long distances - some from as far as the Clwyd hills. Eventually, I went to Holywell Grammar School - cycling about 5 miles & return. My memories are many, helping with the hay-making and bringing the corn from the fields to the Pentre farmyard for stacking. In the summer I would sometimes cycle to Flint or Ffynnongroew to where my friends lived. I could ramble on forever about my days spent around Ysceifiog. These were times which I shall always remember spending my youth in beautiful surroundings.
Fri Nov 9 10:34:01 2007
Beverly Webber from St Asaph
Does anyone have a photograph of Old Tanllan (Tan y Llan), in Ysceifiog? The old house would have been demolished around 1909/10 when the "new" house was built. There must be a photo out there somewhere!
Mon Nov 5 08:27:37 2007
Julian, Poole, Dorset
My ancestor reverend Morgan lived in the rectory at Ysceifiog. I have found contemporary pictures of St Marys, the rectory, and the Morgan family sitting outside the rectory along with headed paper headed Ysceifiog rectory, Holywell. I think they were relocated from Blaenau nr Tredegar sometime between 1873 and 1900
Mon Oct 15 08:54:14 2007
Michael Williams from Surrey
Like Julie Williams, I am tracing my family tree. My gg grand father & mother lived in 'The Old Kennel' Ysceifiog 1861 & 1871. I would, also, love to see where my family actually lived.
Wed Aug 22 14:37:50 2007
Carl, Chester
Les, regarding Richard (Dick) Matthews's sister Elizabeth. My gran's understanding is that it was Richard's mother who emigrated to Canada, leaving Richard to be brought up by Edwin Mathews, Elizabeth's brother.
Fri Jul 27 08:10:08 2007
John Maddocks, New Zealand
On the 1890 and 1891 census my family, Maddocks, had moved from Denbigh. Martha Maddocks had married a George Nichols, now George, and in fact every person in the district, on the census sheet ie Ysceifiog were engaged in paper making this was 1901 census. Can you tell us where and what the Paper concern was? On the 1891 census my grandfather to be was a printer, his two sisters, Marta and Sarah, were listed as Paper Picker and Paper Turner, do you know where this operation took place? My great grandfather John Maddocks was in business as a hairdresser as he was in Denbigh prior to moving to Caerwys where this census took place in 13 North St Caerwys. Any help would be appreciated, they were all Wh and English speaking.
Mon Jul 2 15:07:29 2007
David Davies originally from Holywell
As a school boy in Holywell Grammar School we had a visit to Ysgeifiog Fisheries in 1961, which was very interesting, and its setting was idyllic. Does anyone know what happened to the fisheries, are they still there now?
Wed May 9 08:34:04 2007
Rosemary, Ottawa, Canada
There's a lot of fascinating history of people and places in this little village and it's great when properties are regenerated rather than being left empty. After retiring, my father, Bill Humphreys, put a great deal of skill and ingenuity into converting the former chapel into an attractive house. To reuse some of the lovely panels and benches from the chapel he engaged a talented young cabinet maker, Paul Crabb, to make them into cabinets and a wonderful staircase. Paul went on to work for the Duke of Westminster and Sotheby's. I believe a stone way marker – a relic of earlier times - was found in the hedgerow when the landscaping was carried out.
Tue May 8 09:50:44 2007
Richard Green from Ysceifiog
Northgate Street, now known as Northgate Terrace, comprises 3 dwellings all having been updated for contemporary living. I've some photographs if anyone wishes to view them.
Tue Apr 17 09:18:24 2007
Julie Williams from Warwickshire
I am tracing my family tree, many of whom were born and lived in Ysgeifiog (late 1800s). Does anyone have any photographs of the Fron or Northgate Street? I would love to see where my family actually lived.
Mon Mar 26 09:43:32 2007
George Brocklehurst
I was born and bred in Ysceifiog and moved in 1981 with the intention of moving back within 5 years. It never happened as the house prices have gone through the roof. One day I will return, if you are born in a village like Ysceifiog you always want to return.
Wed Jan 24 09:42:31 2007
Les, Halkyn
My grandfather, Richard Matthews, was born at Bryn Degwm, Ysgeifiog, but he had an older sister who emigrated to Canada. I would like to know what happened to her and why she left, can anybody help?
Thu Dec 28 11:22:16 2006
Norma Williams, Liverpool
Does anyone know what happened to the Lloyd family, their house was Tyn-y-Celyn, a farm in Ysceifiog. I know Robert Lloyd and his family were still there in 1886. Would love more information.
Mon Oct 16 09:49:15 2006
Wil, Wrexham.
What an interesting read. So much fascinating history in a small village, many thanks to Hazel Formby. Do they still have Friday night Welsh singalongs in the Fox?
Mon Aug 21 14:12:27 2006
Elizabeth Georgina Langford, Cefn Mawr, Wrexham
Have found this interesting and would like to know about all areas of Wales - especially historical tales and any hauntings.
Mon Aug 21 10:56:34 2006
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