"Drovers' routes, these old tracks and byways were used extensively during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Welsh sheep and Welsh black cattle were driven by drovers and their dogs to the markets of England, even as far as East Anglia and Kent, there they would be fattened for sale in London to provide the roast beef of old England.

The end of the eighteenth century saw the height of the trade when 30,000 head of cattle would be driven each year from Mid Wales. Cattle would be gathered from a large area, with a considerable number coming before the long trek over the mountains through the Cwmberwyn Pass to Abergwesyn and Llanwrtyd Wells, which is reputed to be the smallest town in Wales. It is situated on the River Irfon, close to the 1,600 foot high hills of Mynydd Epynt.

The discovery of medicinal springs in the area gave it status as a Spa Town and popular holiday resort from which the hills and valleys sustain hundreds of acres of forest comprising the Rheidol, Ystwyth, Tywi and Irfon forests.

In 2000, Llanwrtyd Wells celebrated the fiftieth anniversary of their annual Eisteddfod on 23rd September.

The road to Abergwesyn follows the valley of the River Irfon between afforested hillsides, from which another road runs through the wild valley of Wolf's Leap to climb the precipitous Devil's Staircase with its hairpin bends, then on to Tregaron which was an important droving centre.

It is recorded that Dai Jones of Abergwesyn drove up to 1,200 sheep, with the help of his sheepdogs, sixteen miles a day for several days whatever the weather, staying the night at Inns or farmhouses en route.

In 1799 a drovers' bank was established in Llandovery, the Black Ox, it issued its own notes and prospered until it was eventually incorporated into Lloyds Bank in 1909.

Many drovers' routes passed through Radnorshire, one being through Rhayader, Hereford and Gloucester to London. Another route went from Tregaron, Llanwrtyd Wells, Llanafan Fawr where at the Red Lion Inn the drovers would partake of liquid refreshment. According to Giraldus Cambrensis the Red Lion can be dated back as far at least as 1189. The present Inn dates back over five hundred years to 1472 and is believed to be the oldest public house in Powys and probably in Wales.

Llanafan Fawr has a church and an ancient churchyard in which is to be found a mighty yew tree which is believed to be over 2000 years old. The remains of a two thousand year old village are clearly visible.

The drovers, after quenching their thirst, then made their way to Newbridge on Wye, Howey, over Rogo Hill to Hundred House, then on to a wild mountain road to Painscastle which was an important droving centre with several Inns and numerous forges.

Before cattle were driven long distances, they had to be shod to prevent them becoming foot sore. There were sites on Tycanol hill, St Harmon, Glan-hirin, Elan Valley, and Glan-rhyd, Pantydwr where this shoeing took place.

This movement of livestock created much work for blacksmiths and farriers and brought in revenue for Innkeepers, one of which is situated on the outskirts of Rhayader in Cwmdauddwr Parish, The Triangle Inn. Market day in Rhayader is Wednesdays with a livestock market on Friday.

It is most interesting to travel these drovers' routes and possible to do so today by car. It was, when travelling one of these ancient tracts over the hills from Painscasle that I came upon a group of Welsh poppies with their brilliant yellow colour. This was the flower chosen as the logo of the Mid Wales Festival of the Countryside, undoubtedly a very appropriate choice. It flowers from May to September and is often found on damp, derelict sites.

Today it is difficult to imagine drovers or anyone else walking such distances, equally it is difficult to imagine the countryside without transport."

Extract from 'A Glimpse of Beautiful Mid Wales' by R M (Monty) Williams from St Harmon

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