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5. Submerged Forest

Remains of the submerged forest at Ynyslas Keep walking along the beach in the direction of Borth until you reach the fifth sand groyne along from Ynyslas. At low tide, the remains of an ancient forest can be seen in the sands here.

Watch a programme clip about Cantre'r Gwaelod...
Watch another clip about the submerged forest...

John Morgan from Aberystwyth Ramblers talks to BBC Wales reporter John Meredith about the legend of Cantre'r Gwaelod...
(Need help with RealPlayer?)

It's worth making the trip to Ynyslas at low tide in the hope of witnessing this amazing sight. Tree stumps of oak, pine, birch, willow and hazel can be found embedded in peat at one metre below the normal surface between high and low water marks. Even twigs and branches are uncovered.

This submerged forest proves that the coastline used to be further west and that the sea level has risen. Radio carbon dating suggests that these trees died around 3500 BC (but others to the south, near Borth, date from 1500BC). The tree stumps were preserved by the acid anaerobic conditions in the peat.

The forest remains also hark back to the legend of a lost land - the Lowland Hundred or Cantre'r Gwaelod as it's known in Welsh.

Ruled by Gwyddno Garanhir, the low-lying kingdom was protected from the sea by a series of dykes and sluice gates. One stormy night, the appointed watchman Seithennin - a heavy drinker - was at a party and left the water gates open. The land was flooded and disappeared under the waves. Perhaps there was an earthquake and a tidal wave or tsunami.

It is said that if you listen closely, you can hear the bells of the lost city ringing out from under the sea, especially on quiet Sunday mornings and particularly if you're in Ynyslas or Aberdyfi.

To continue with the walk, retrace your steps northwards along the beach, with the sea now on your left. Notice an emergency telephone (remember no bathing!) at the first flag pole on your right. Pass the second red flag, marking where your outward boardwalk met the beach.

Yellow Horned Poppy on Ynyslas beachSea rocket grows along the strand-line and, from June through to September, the yellow-horned poppy flowers along the area where the shingle meets the dunes.

If you want a shorter walk, turn right where you see a third red flag and you can return to the Visitor Centre via another boardwalk. To complete the three-mile walk, continue on to the northern point of the headland.


your comments

John, a Curcio from across the sea (USA)
Cantre'r Gwaelod and the lost or buried forest may very well be some land extension from the sorrounding seas remains/ruins of the existance of submerged Atlantis. One photo of the 'rocks' looks to me like pumice (volcanic rock with holes and it floats) and the comment above about a layer of clay found here is very telling (proof of this legendary land?). Have any geologist or archaeologists been there to explore the site or make some educated surmises?
Tue Apr 21 09:56:13 2009

Frankie Jones from Birmingham
I have been visiting Borth and Ynyslas for a number or years, I have a caravan in Llanidloes. I had never heard of the 'forest' till this year, so, last week, August 2008, I paid a visit, with a specific purpose, to witness the forest. What perfect timing...the tide was out so far and the glory of the magnificant sight was exposed. I could not believe the extent..it was fabulous. I certainly recommend a visit.
Tue Aug 26 09:26:51 2008

W.Ward, Northumberland
Brilliant beach, rather an anti-social notice from the golfers though. All for the dog-ban! too, beaches should be a safe and clean enviroment, have had a dog ban in Newbiggin, Northumberland and what a difference! no worrying about whether we've sat on dog mess or not. Black Rock and Harlech are favourites too - keep them dog free too.
Tue Aug 19 09:08:25 2008

Colin Lythe from Oswestry
Seen the submerged forest today and I was blown away. What a site, will be going back to look again surprised to find out how old they are.
Mon Jun 9 09:20:45 2008

Elle Chapman
I have been visiting Borth for years now since I was a child and I have only become aware of the legend of Cantre'r Gwaelod this year! I am visiting again in August '08 for my summer hols (taking my partner there to see how beautiful it is as he's never been) And this time I will definitely be looking out for the submerged forest - so exciting!
Thu Jun 5 17:30:59 2008

Shelley Stubbs, Waltham Abbey, Essex
I,too, have been to Port Eynon and thought this was part of a petrified forest, in August 2008 we are going to Wales to see the submerged forest in Ynyslas for ourselves as the program did make it look very interesting and appealing.
Sun Mar 23 11:18:38 2008

Sheila Roberts Shrewsbury
I have been to Borth and Ynyslas many many times. On Wednesday 20th February took my first visit this year and was amazed at how much more of the sunken forest was visible, far more than I have ever seen before.It was exposed in a greater area than I have ever seen before. Truly a sight to see. I wonder does the season and tides govern how much is in sight at any time. There seemed to be more channels and sand movement than when I was there 5 months ago.? Would love to know why there is such a change to the beach at the moment. A magical sight indeed to see the remains of the forest. Will be heading back up very soon. Do visit if you can.
Mon Feb 25 08:16:04 2008

Liz Rocher, Brittany
Very interesting, for here in north Brittany and down the west coast of Normany, there is the same thing. Historains over here have traced old texts speaking of a flood tide and the moment in the 7th century when Mont Saint Michel became an island, as before it had been land-locked. My norman mother-in-law knew where the fossilised trees in Normandy were, and also told us a pilgrimage, held yearly, in the 19th/2ąth century where her grandmother and many other villagers crossed to Jersey on foot (one way only, as the tides rise rapidly here) on the remains of on old paved way called St Lo's path - the saint was said to travel thus to Jersey. By the 19th century it was only possible to do this once or twice a year on the equinoctial tides.
Mon Feb 4 08:04:17 2008

Evan Keir from Annan
On the Solway coast near Annan you can see tree stumps and roots sticking out of the mud flats. They've always amazed me and it wasn't until I saw similar ones on coast that I realised how old they could be. I recommend visiting this sunken woodland but be cautious of the rising tide.
Thu Aug 16 10:58:24 2007

Naomi Roberts, Worcester.
I have been visiting Borth since 1949 - childhood holidays and now visiting with grandchildren staying at Morlais, the Youth Hostel. The dunes have been looked after so well over recent years - it used to be the home of old air raid shelters but now is a beautiful place and the views up the estuary are stunning. This year for the very first time I have seen the forest. It was wonderful seeing it - I had heard about the forest many times but it seemed like a myth until I saw it on BBC Coast. The reality is fantastic. I would also add I saw a few remnants near the beach rockpools ! at the other end near the cliff.
Mon Apr 30 11:11:20 2007

Timothy Ansell, Aberystwyth
I have visited Ynyslas beach several times, and Borth beach as well. I have never seen the tree stumps, but would love to see them. I find the legend of Cantref Gwaelod very fascinating, and I am interested in the remains of the old forest.
Mon Apr 30 10:12:39 2007

Sue, Coleford
Never ever ban dogs from the beach - if you do the tourist trade in west wales will be devastated. I love to see tourists coming to wales as a family - dog and all. Children and adults should always wear shoes on any beach - glass, wood and the like are much more harmful to the feet that dogs mess - which can of course be washed off in the endless supply of sea water!
Tue Feb 13 13:39:12 2007

Mike Williams, Hereford
We visit Aberdovey, Ynyslas and Aberystwyth annually. Looking generally at this site this evening 1st Feb 2007 and longing for the summer. We'll be back again during the year. Glynis, if you return to read more comments, recognise my name from hft.
Fri Feb 2 09:54:53 2007

Tywyn
Due to the heavy seas and winds the submerged forest is more visable then I have ever seen it. The area covers the beach south of the 'prom' upto the land drain outlet and beyond for about 400 metres. Great tree roots and whole felled trees can be seen as well as the old peat beds with bark and twigs clear to see. Well worth a visit before Xmas day.
Thu Dec 21 10:00:01 2006

Glynis Homer, Penegoes
I live close and visit often it is a very special place which is not spoiled by dog muck (theres always someone moaning about something!) I just carn't understand why this perfect part of wales is bypassed so much by the tourist industry. We have so much here, if time is spent getting to know the area.So much history, legend and nature. I am biased It is now my adopted home.
Fri Oct 27 09:23:42 2006

Lizzie From Aberystwyth
I would ignore all the comments left by Julia Simmons, I walk the beach every weekend and there's no more dog mess than in any other public area. Also I actually think it's a lovely site to see the dogs racing on the beach playing. I think it would be a great disappointment if dogs weren't allowed there, but maybe to stop these moaners more bins should be provided. However the beach is lovely, the sand dunes are a great place to explore. The submerged forest is amazing with all the exposed branches that have survived.
Mon Jul 31 10:54:40 2006

julia simmons worcester
Yes we come every year however every year I am amazed at the amount of dog muck that stupid dog owners leave not only on the dunes but also on the shingle and rocks. I think every day last year there would be at lease 1 child who got dog mess buried between her toes. I'm glad also to see the marine conservation society have passed the beach this year and it reaches EU regulations. Last year when it failed and bathing was not advised there was not one public notice anywhere, not even the locals knew and the beach by the golf club car park was full every day. Why was that? We told as many people as possible with young children and went nearer the borth end. Anyway despite my moans it still is a lovely place just put some more signs up about dog mess or better still ban them in the summer months.
Mon Jul 17 09:37:35 2006

A Jones from Llandovery
Have not been here yet but will be going soon. I have seen evidence of what looks like a submerged forest on port eynon beach on the gower. When the tide goes out, it looks like the beach is covered in flat rocks, but these seem to be the remains of trees with roots and branches in parts. Below this layer is a layer of light grey clay (I presume it was silt). There appears to be lots of upright thin pieces and some very strong roots - like you would find in a mangrove swamp. Has anyone else noticed these?
Thu Sep 22 21:35:12 2005

Pete Barton - Neston
We've just come back from visiting this site today (Saturday 3 September). Whilst only a few inches of many of the trees were showing, there were a number of roots and stumps that were clearly exposed. Never seen this before and went because we'd seen the programme. A great beach to walk on for hours and the trees are an excellent highlight.
Sat Sep 3 22:08:01 2005

Christine James from Bristol
The walks around Ynyslas are wonderful. There are a wide variety of habitats full of varied wildlife and plants and the scenery is beautiful. The Wardens on the reserve are extremely friendly and helpful and they are great with children, encouraging them to take an interest and happy to answer any questions. The submerged forest has to be seen to be believed!
Sun Aug 14 20:30:22 2005

Ron Webb
I have seen the submerged tree stumps a number of times they never look the same.There are some more at Tywyn south of the prom' also some v.old peat beds. Well worth a closer look
Fri Aug 12 16:07:37 2005

Andrew Morris, Leeds
After talking with the locals we found that the best time to see the submerged forrest is in winter when storms remove the layers of sand. During the summer the sand covers the forest entirley as I found out!! Still well worth a visit anytime of the year.
Wed Aug 10 16:56:30 2005

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