 |
 |
| From
a river to the Romans .... and beyond! |
 |
 |
 |
| ©
Crown copyright. All rights reserved. BBC licence number 100019855, 2004.
Map not reproduced to scale. |
Walk
Details:
Start Point: Westminster Lodge Leisure Centre, Holywell
Hill, St Albans
Countryside Rangers Office: 01727 848168
Ordnance Survey: Landranger 166 - map ref:151065
Distance: approx 3km (1.8 miles)
Time: approx 1 hour 15 minutes
Walk Conditions:
Most of this walk is along man-made concrete paths and pavements although
there are opportunities to go off-road and explore on the grass which can
become muddy after rain. There are two short hills of a fairly low gradient
and a steeper hill which you only have to walk down. If you choose to take
the optional trail down to Sopwell, the river bank paths can be narrow and
muddy and not always suitable for prams and wheelchairs. |
 |
Start
on the steps outside Westminster Lodge Leisure Centre. Turn left and walk
down towards the flood plain of the River Ver. When you get to the road
track turn left again and walk with the Leisure Centre, then the Car Park
to your left.
You can either
keep to the concrete path or walk on the flood plain grass itself - an
area that is widely used by the public and has many leisure uses.
This area
is the flood plain of the River Ver, but although it's difficult to imagine,
the river used to flow right through where you are walking.
It was much
wider then and probably shallower as well, until humans dug it into deeper
ditches and moved it for industrial use to work their water mills. Currently
it's pushed right over into the far corner of the valley floor. If you
stand and face the Abbey, it runs in a channel where the trees start and
the grass finishes. You can walk across to see it, if you have time, but
there will be other chances further on in the walk.
The River
Ver is what's known as a chalk stream which rises north of Redbourn (Kensworth
Lynch) and joins the River Colne at Bricket Wood.
The Ver,
like other chalk streams, has a porus bed which means that water filters
through it and it relies on a high water table for its very existence.
The chalk
lying beneath your feet now, can be dated back 80-100 million years when
the whole of north west Europe was beneath the sea, and most of it was
created by the algae living in it.
The chalk
is composed of tiny little plates formed from the algae, which are known
as coccoliths. These are very pure calcium carbonate, which the algae
extract from the sea water which are then secreted as white calcium carbonate.
The chalk
has been here far longer than the Ver, which is not the only river that
has run through this area. In fact, it is the legacy left by a far more
famous river and, if it wasn't for the ice age, St Albans may well have
been England's capital city!
Between 2,000,000
and 450,000 years ago, the River Thames ran through the vale of St Albans,
which is the broad open valley between the hill that St Albans sits on
and several miles to the south where you now find Radlett and Shenley.
i.e. where you are now walking!
|
 |
Keep
walking along the path with the athletics track to your left. You will shortly
come to a fork in the path. Stop here for a moment to look at the river
valley before taking the left hand fork.
To your right
you can see the Abbey on the hill. There's quite a steep slope leading
up away from the flood plain, to the Abbey and the rest of the city, although
it's quite hard to see this through the trees. But behind you and to your
left, there's a much gentler slope on the southern side of the valley.
The reason
for this is that most of the shaping of the valley occurred under very
cold conditions, during the Pleistocene period.
The ground
would freeze to a depth of 50 or 100m so the whole of the upper part of
the chalk would have frozen and therefore become impermeable.
The rainwater
couldn't get into the ground, so instead it ran over the ice and created
valleys by erosion.
Northern
slopes like the one that the Abbey sits at the top of, got more sunshine
than the southern sides of the valley, like the one behind you.
When the
sun hit the ice, the permafrost layer melted and sludged down the valley.
Because it got more sun, this process occurred much more strongly on the
north side of the valley, which became less stable than the southern side.
The meltwater
flowed down the slope carrying ground material and undercut the slope
making it steeper.
The southern
slope would tend to remain stable and was covered by a soil layer that
wasn't transported anywhere as rapidly.
|
 |
Take
the left hand fork and walk to the hedge where you meet another footpath
within Verulamium Park. There are signposts here. Turn left following the
sign to the London Gate and Wall, which you will find along this path.
When you
reach what remains of the London Gate and Roman Wall, you are standing
at the eastern end of the Roman City of Verulamium, where the road from
London, called Watling Street, entered the city through an enormous triumphal
arch.
Here you
can see the remaining foundations for a very large gateway and also the
largest part of the old Roman Wall that remains. The gate would have consisted
of two very large drum towers, with the outside part of the wall rounded,
two archways for vehicles and troops and then two smaller ones where people
could walk through without being mown down by a chariot!
You can see
that the wall is made up of layers of red Roman bricks with about a metre
of flint between these brick layers.
Flint was
an obvious choice for the Romans to build their wall with because there
is a lot of it in this area and it is extremely durable. You can also
see it in many other buildings in the city because it's so hard and persistent
that it resists any weathering.
The flint
was formed around the same time as the chalk. As well as the chalk-forming
algae, there were also animals composed of silica living in the sea. After
they were buried in the chalk sediment, the silica was redissolved then
reprecipitated as flint.
Sadly, most
of the wall is now gone. This is not because of weathering but because
people came down here to rob the old Roman city for building stone.
So why was
Verulamium built here? Well, the river is important but if you look in
front of you, you can see that the hill goes up on the northern side of
the valley, and from the top you can see for miles. The city may be in
a fairly flat valley but it's in a very commanding position and you'd
have had a very good vantage point, particularly from the northern side.
As such,
the lay of the land has always helped to make it an important area for
human settlement.
You can now
take the time to walk up along the length of this part of the wall, if
you have time.- or turn and walk back down towards the lake.
|
 |
Turn
round and return the way you came but when you get to the signposts, stop
and look to your left.
From here
there is also a very good view of the river valley's southern slope, which
runs down to the river irregularly.
A lot of
this irregularity is archaeological. Here you are looking towards the
centre of the Roman city and beneath the grass are all sorts of foundations
of buildings, shops and old streets
But some
of the irregularity of this slope was created during the very cold stage
about 10,000 years ago by the formation of large masses of ice on the
ground surface.
The upper
layers of chalk were frozen but springs still flowed out from the side
of the valley. The water would then freeze on the ground surface forming
large masses of ice, 20-40 metres across and several metres thick.
Then sediment
would sludge down these slopes and accumulate round the ice, so when the
ice melted you'd be left with a little hollow surrounded by sludging sediment,
making the ground surface uneven.
Another explanation
for the unevenness of this slope is that it is the remains of a Medieval
field system. River banks are renowned for having fertile soil so it would
have been a very good place for crop gowing.
|
Continue
walking back down the hill towards the lake. You will pass a hedge on your
left and another bit of Roman Wall. When you get to the lake turn left and
walk along the path with the lake on the right.
The Earls
of Verulam owned all the land down to the lake, until it was sold to the
city council in the 1930s and it was turned into a leisure area by Sir
Mortimer Wheeler, with help from the local unemployed!
The lake
that you see at the bottom of the slope was built and the river was moved
and 'canalised' on the northern side.
But the river
used to flow across the valley floor, where you're walking now. Where
the lake is used to be a water meadow, a damp marshy area that was grazed
on by cattle in the summer.
The lake
that is now in the park is of importance for birds and bats and has been
designated a Wildlife Site for its local importance.
A variety
of wildfowl species can be seen on the lake, ranging from more common
species such as the Mallard, Duck, Swan and Coot to more rarer birds like
the Great Crested Grebe.
The site
is very important for herons which nest on the undisturbed islands in
the centre of the lake. If you look carefully, you can see them on the
banks around the edges of these islands but they are quite bold now and
they can also sometimes be seen in the adjacent river catching fish.
Large numbers
of farmyard and Canada geese love this highly man-made environment and
have brought problems to the area. You will see that for up to 30 feet
from the water's edge, the path and grass is covered in goose droppings.
They congregate
here because they know they can get a good supply of food and because
of this they don't move onto other sites like they would do naturally.
Instead they inbreed and are born with deformities.
You will
see that some of the geese have one wing permanently sticking out, looking
like they've been in some kind of fight! But this condition is called
angel wing and is a genetic deformity resulting from inbreeding.
Apart from
this, and the fact that the bread just isn't good for the birds, feeding
them causes other problems too - one of this is called eutrophication.
The birds
may love a bit of sliced white but the nutrients in it all build up in
the water and because there's not a fast flow of the water, poisonous
algae grows producing toxins that are dangerous for both people and animals.
The algae
also reduces the oxygen levels in the water so there's not enough to support
large numbers of fish and insect numbers are also reduced so it has a
negative effect higher up the food chain.
|
 |
When
you get right to the end of the lake - past the bridge separating the two
lake areas, keep walking around it until you see a path off to your leftWalk
along it until you get to the iron railings and go through them out into
St Michaels StreetYou will see Kingsbury Water Mill to your right, which
as well as being a musem and shop - houses a popular Waffle House, and another
chance to stop and eat!
The current
building known as Kingsbury Mill was built in the 16th century but a mill
at this location is mentioned in the Domesday Book.
It was modernised
in the 19th century and was a working mill until 1960, powered by the
waters of the Ver.
On the grass
at the front of the Mill, you will see what at a quick first glance looks
like a lump of concrete, but it is in fact a large piece of Hertfordshire
Puddingstone. This rock is well-known throughout the world, and can ONLY
be found in Hertfordshire, extending into some adjacent counties. But,
although there are many theories, nobody really knows why. It's a great
geological mystery, so go and take a closer look!
It just looks
like a lot of ordinary stones stuck together, loosely resembling a fruit
pudding - hence its name! But the geological process that led to this
is evidence that St Albans was once a tropical area!
Hertfordshire
Puddingstone is composed of pebbles, which are flints derived from the
underlying chalk, that have been incorporated into finer sediment.
The unusual
thing about Hertfordshire Puddingstone is that the pebbles have been cemented
together with silica, which is a very hard material. This silica has been
drawn out of the underlying rock by water percolating from the surface
of the earth downwards.
When the
silica encountered this accumulation of pebbles and sand on its way down,
it was re-deposited as a fine material which invaded all the pores between
the pebbles and the sand particles and stuck them all together.
But why did
this process only happen around here?
It's actually
a bit of a mystery but there are various theories. The silica must have
originally come from soils near the land surface, where the rainwater
percolating through the soil would slowly dissolve silica out and carry
it downwards.
But that
is a process which is typical of tropical regions, so it must date back
at least 50 or 60 million years ago when the climate in this part of the
world was something near tropical - very different from anything that
we've had since.
Some people
say that the silica was much deeper within the earth's crust so when there
were other layers of sediment deposited above it, perhaps 100 metres thick,
there was a lot of pressure there to assist these chemical changes. But
it's a puzzle!
|
  |
 |

Now walk
back to the lake and follow the path down the other side of it. The re-directed
River Ver is now on your left.
Before you
walk round the other side of the lake, stop at the top of it. If it is
a Sunday, you can watch the remote controlled boats that people have been
bringing to this smaller section of the lake for years.
If you look
around you can see a variety of trees in the park including beech, oak,
horse chestnut whilst along the river section there are willows and more
horse chestnuts.
This area
of the park is highly used by the general public, and because a lot of
wildlife doesn't like disturbance, you will find more common species in
the scrub and hedgerows around here that are more used to people. These
include rabbits and all kinds of garden birds like House Martins, blackbirds,
chaffinches, robins and tits and of course, pigeons, all of which are
fairly bold!
But more
unsual birds such as the Greater Spotted Woodpecker have also been seen.
But at dusk,
the bats come out!
Bats like
to forage along linear habitats such as in the rows of trees along the
river to the left, and also in surrounding buildings. This is because
being in a line not only protects them from predators, it also aids their
orientation.
The bats
usually hibernate from late September to late March but at dusk during
the summer months, many bat species can be regularly seen feeding over
the lake and along the river on insects. These include the common pipistrelle,
soprano pipistrelle, daubentons, Brown Long-eared and whiskered bats.
Again you
are walking along where the river used to flow, but over the years it
has been moved to the left and 'canalised'.
The river
on your left is not great habitat now because it is no longer natural.
It is all the same level so doesn't get a fast flow of water through it.
As a chalk stream, the Ver should normally be associated with brown trout
and have water voles on the banks but this artificial bank is not suitable
for them. It's far too open.
This kind
of slow flowing water also attracts ground dwelling fish like carp which
stir up the sediment and make the water look quite murky. Further downstream
the water gets faster and is therefore better oxygenated and can support
more wildlife.
There are
also not many plants here. Planting more vegetation would lead to a greater
insect population to feed larger species and also provide good egg laying
sites for newts and frogs.
But on the
plus side, you will often see lines of majectically swimming swans along
this stretch and the horse chestnut trees provide good hauls of conkers
for the local children in the Autumn!
|
When you
get to the end of the lake turn left and you will see The Fighting Cocks
pub, another place to stop for refreshment, and the Mill Stream and Abbey
Mills to your right!
The Fighting
Cocks pub is officially entered in the Guinness Book of Records as the
oldest inhabited pub in Britain, a fact that is hotly disputed by Ye Olde
Trip To Jerusalem in Nottingham.
Archaeological
digs here have found material dating back to around 1500 but it's also
possible that it was also used as a brew house for the Abbey much earlier
than that.
This would
also make sense because if they were using the river to grind grain in
the mills which were owned by the abbot, then they could also have had
their own brewery - hence a much earlier alcoholic connection.
On the right
there is the Mill Stream and the Abbey Mills, one of a dozen mills that
the Ver used to power. These have now been converted for residential use
at typical St Albans prices.
It is thought
that the river was first diverted for use as water power by the Romans,
who moved the river to run a mill when they didn't need it as a defence
any more. However, remains were never found when the area was excavated
to build flats.
But the Mills
are certainly Saxon/medieval in origin, if not earlier, as in the Middle
Ages the river was harnessed to power the Abbot's corn mills here. In
around 1800, these were replaced by a silk-weaving mill.
To your right
you can see kind of water 'steps' coming up from the main river to the
Mill Stream. This is a bypass sluice that's been made into a fish pass
by the Environment Agency. The theory is that larger fish can migrate
up it and recolonise the Abbey Mill stream.
This diversion
of the river worked the mill. Because the Ver was a nice swift flowing
stream, it was ideal for powering water mills. Just in St Albans alone,
there are at least six mills and every time the river has been diverted
to power them, it has moved permanently - or as permanent as a river ever
is!
If you stand
near the gates into the Abbey Mill flats, you can look down to where the
water runs. That is the bottom of the valley. The mill stream by the Fighting
Cocks is about 20 feet higher and that has been raised by human intervention.
The mill
stream travelled under where your feet are now, drove the wheel and went
down the mill race. This channel and the river meet again in the Westminster
Lodge area.
|
Walking past
the Fighting Cocks pub turn left up the hill opposite the Abbey Mills and
walk up towards the Abbey.
The Cathedral
Church of St Alban looks over the modern city and dominates the skyline.
It marks the
place of execution in AD209 of Alban - Britain's first Christian martyr. It
was first founded in 792 by Offa of Mercia on the hilltop site where Alban's
martyrdom and burial had already been marked by a shrine for over 500 years.
The church you
see today is the result of rebuilding in 1077-88 shortly after the Norman
Conquest. Its head was made the premier abbot of England in 1154 and it was
one of England's greatest abbeys until the dissolution of the monasteries
in the 16th century. It then fell into disrepair until its restoration at
the end of the 19th century, becoming a cathedral in 1877.
Norman builders
made great use of Roman bricks taken from the ruins of Verulamium - they are
best seen in the square Tower.
There is a modern
pathway leading up to the Abbey, up the steeper north slope of the river valley
as described in stage 2. Under the grass to the right are remains of the monastic
buildings such as the hospital, the refectory and the guest chamber, and all
the other things that came with a very big Abbey.
St Albans Abbey
was famous for its hospitality and although it was wealthy, an awful lot of
money was spent on entertaining. A few years ago a rubbish pit was dug up
at the top of the deanery and it was full of remains of sturgeon, turbot,
pike and venison so we can assume that they ate very well!
The bank before
you get to the Abbey would probably have been the limit of the cloisters.
Here you can feel you're walking on fairly hard ground.
|
 |
When
you get to the Abbey turn right and walk round it with the building to your
left. Follow the path round the Chapter House, where you can stop to eat,
and continue walking past a large old Yew Tree. You are now in Sumpter Yard
and ahead of you is the main road through the Town Centre. Turn right here
to walk down the hill.
As you
walk down the hill, the variation of the steepness of the slope is very
clear, and this is down to the different rates of sedimentation of the
underlying rock.
Looking down
the Hill you can clearly see the difference in the two slopes on either
side of the river valley. There is quite a steep hill going down, but
at the bottom, the slope going up again is much more gentle.
Nevertheless,
this steep hill provided the main thoroughfare between London and the
north and if you were coming from London up the hill it could cause a
problem.
Imagine a
four or six horse coach in winter coming down St Stephens Hill and braking,
before getting into top gear to get up Holywell Hill. It was a terrible
strain on the horses, and also caused other problems - especially if you
needed to do a hard right into one a coaching in.
In front
of you on the other side of the road you will see a hotel. The White Hart
is a classic coaching inn. The stables were under the archway and you
needed a very skilled coachman to turn right on the hill into the inn.
There was
one unfortunate episode, where a lady was travelling on top of one of
these stagecoaches because it was cheaper. It made such an enormous turn
into the inn, almost like a bus, that she forgot to duck and literally
lost her head!
This was
the main road to the north though and was probably as congested as it
is now! The old A5 and A6 met at the top of the hill and it was an extremely
busy junction. People used to sit on the balcony of the inn on the corner
to watch the accidents! Big cars would turn there, and collide and watching
was a Saturday afternoon pastime in the 1900s, before football took over,
that is!
St Albans
was, and still is an important junction in the south east network. Just
to the south of the modern city sits the junction of the M1 and the M25
and with the A1 running along its eastern side, it is still one of the
main routes to the north.
It was the
natural flint in the Roman walls that provided the perfect foundations
for road construction in this area.
Between the
roadmakers and the builders it's amazing that there's anything left of
the walls at all, and all this from a Roman town that was bigger than
Pompeii. Just think, if St Albans had had a volcano, things could have
been so different - but with underlying chalk - that was never going to
happen!
Mind you,
less than a tenth of Verulamium has been excavated so you never know what
might still be found.
At the bottom
of the slope you can clearly see the different gradients in the slope.
When the chalk was being deposited, it wasn't just a continuous deposition
of white calcareous ooze on the sea floor. There were areas where the
sediment was accumulating more rapidly and areas where hardly any was
accumulating at all.
Where you
have areas of slow deposition, you get reactions between the sediment
that has already been deposited and the overlying seawater. These reactions
have the effect of hardening the sediment and are known as hard grounds.
This hard
chalk rock occurs at a level within the chalk between what is called the
Middle chalk and the Upper chalk. In St Albans, it occurs some way above
the level of the floor of the Ver valley and because it's a hard layer
it forms a bench running along the valley sides.
You can see
it here in Holywell Hill where half way up the hill there's a gentler
slope which marks the top of the bench where the chalk rock occurs.
Below that
you've got a steeper slope cut in softer Middle chalk, and above it as
you go up from Sumpter Yard to the top of Holywell Hill you've got another
steep part, cut from the Upper chalk.
|
If
you decide not to see the 'Holy' well or walk further down the river, continue
walking down the hill and past the Duke of Marlborough pub. Walk across
the little bridge on your right and follow the river bank along. From here,
you can then cut across the flood plain back to the Westminster Lodge Leisure
Centre where you started whenever you want.
This is the
River Ver as it is now, where the mineral rich water is vital to plants
and animals of the valley and the wetlands are slow to freeze which make
it a temporary haven for migratory birds. And if you see a fantastic splash
of blue, it may be a kingfisher!
In front
of you, extending out into the flood plain, there is now an area left
alone to be a bog because it just wouldn't dry up! It is in fact purely
the ground water making a lovely marshy area. It was the River Ver just
doing what it wanted to do naturally!
It's now
left as an area of unmown grass where reeds and other aquatic plants also
appear. Even in summer you can see pools of water on the surface.
Along this
part of the river you can really see a difference from the artificial
canalised part of the river by the lake.
The water
is flowing faster and looks generally clearer and of better quality, providing
spawning areas for fish, such as Brown Trout. The vegetated banks attract
more small mammals and the running water means it is not only better oxygenated
for fish but also provides a rich habitat for invertebrates including
stoneflies, beetles, spiders, and dragonflies. As a result the bats like
it more down here, especially as it is also quite sheltered.
The undisturbed
banks here, and further down in the Sopwell meadows, are more suitable
for breeding birds and for water voles to burrow into as they can also
feed on bankside vegetation where there are around 230 different types
of plant species.
If you spot
a water vole, it's helpful for the Wildlife Trust if you let them know,
because they are the fastest declining mammal species in Britain, with
their population having reduced by 95 per cent since the 1950s. This is
mostly due to the introduction of another non-native species into the
environment and one which you may also spot - the American mink.
Unlike otters,
which don't have a negative impact on water voles, the minks are a bit
smaller and can get into the voles' burrows, and as a result has devastated
their population.
However,
don't get the water vole confused with the brown rat which is roughly
the same size!
| Water
vole |
|
Brown
rat |
| Blunt
nose |
|
More
pointed face |
| Shorter
furrier tail |
|
Long
hairless tail |
| Very
small ears - can hardly be seen |
|
Ears
stick up |
| Quite
cumbersome in the water. Jump in and swim with most of its body above
the water so it looks like it's doing a doggy paddle |
|
Slide
into water so don't really hear them. They glide in the water and
only their heads will stick out of the water. |
There are
also some dead trees along here which are an extremely valuable habitat
for insects and funghi. Woodpeckers and bats might also roost in them
and be able to feed on the insects.
Chalk rivers
like the Ver have a characteristic plant community with lots of things
to look out for. They are often dominated by mid-channel plants such as
Water-crowfoot and Water Starwort. You can look for Water-crowfoot here,
and also if you take the extra walk further downstream. It has white flowers
earlier in the year and can make the whole stream look like it is covered
in petals.
The Ver's
low banks also support a range of water-loving plants like forget me not,
cotoneaster (garden escape) and of course, the obligatory nettles!
The little
brick building, carefully hidden by trees in the middle of the flood plain
is the Mud Lane pumping station, which works in tandem with Holywell and
Stonecross, up by the Jolly Sailor pub at the top end of the town, pumping
water from the chalk.
The chalk
is about 600 metres thick in this area of Hertfordshire and perfect for
holding water because it acts like a sponge. All you need to do is dig
a hole and the water seeps into it. We pump it out and there's our water
supply.
As you walk
back towards Westminster Lodge, remember that hundreds and thousands of
years ago you would be sloshing through water! But where you are walking
is also at a higher level than it was during those times.
This area
was used as a place to dump the excess soil when the park was re-developed
in the 1930s and so is artificially raised. You are also walking on the
silt from the dredgings of the lake in the 50s and the 70s. There's also
some of the spoil from the construction of the surface of the running
track ahead of you.
But even
though a constant round of human intervention has raised the ground level,
during wet winters (and even summers!) there is some flooding. The grass
becomes very marshy and boggy and walkers can get a picture of what the
river used to be like.
We hope that
this stroll through time has shown how the formation of the landscape
and its associated features millions of years ago is a process which is
forever evolving. And it also illustrates how we have used our natural
resources in ever more sophisticated ways as life gets more complicated.
Over the
years the river Ver has proved itself to be a natural resource in many
ways. It has always been used to provide a drinking water supply for human
beings but other uses have included defence, a source of power and a focus
for recreation and leisure.
The underlying
chalk has supported and fed this river for millions of years and this
rock has also provided us with flint for tools, defence building materials
and the construction of the roads that have made St Albans an important
centre of communication for centuries.
Who knows
what will happen next?
|
Acknowledgements
BBC Beds, Herts and Bucks would like to thank the following for all their
help in producing this Walk Through Time:
Mike Dodds, Open University
Andy Hardstaff, Countryside Management Service
Dr John Catt, Hertfordshire Geological Society
Andy Webb, Ver Valley Society
Brian Adams, St Albans Museums
Michelle Henley, Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust |
 |
 |