Faith Features

Two years is a long time in the tempestuous environment of Israel and Palestine.

Since my first visit in 2007, Israeli forces moved on Gaza to attempt to end rocket and mortar attacks by supporters of Hamas, hundreds of people, including a high percentage of children, were killed and thousands have seen their homes in an already overcrowded and deprived area destroyed.

Yet, in a country no larger than Wales, it is all too easy to forget that Gaza and its suffering exists.

Yes there are tastelessly offensive T-shirts on sale in the markets of Old Jerusalem, but that wonderfully cosmopolitan place where three faiths meet headlong seems to just carry on. If anything, security seemed more relaxed in Jerusalem than in 2007.

The tensions among the three main faiths that claim Jerusalem are still present and Jerusalem will it seems forever be a contested city.

The spot that causes the controversy is "The Holy of Holys " where the Ark of the Covenant was once lodged. The site is now occupied by the beautiful Dome of the Rock, the third most important place for Muslims after Mecca and Madina.

Behind the Western Wall

Jews revere the Western Wall as the closest spot to the site, but for us the real thrill was to enter the excavation behind the Western Wall. Here you can touch the carefully crafted stones of Herod's temple where Jesus overturned the money lenders' tables. Inside the excavation Jewish women pray, prevented from doing so at the Western Wall.

The same tensions occur within the faiths themselves. In recent months Orthodox Jews have come to blows over their shared stewardship of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre ... the site of the crucifixion.  It's a strange place with little to connect with anglican liturgies and churchmanship.  Once again the Sunday school imagary of the Garden Tomb provided a stronger focus for the pilgrims. This time however it has to be said that Jerusalem was not overrun with pilgrims. Whether this was due to the poor exchange rate which has doubled prices for us in two years or the Gaza crisis I'm not sure.

Jews revere the Western Wall

Pilgrimage is not a holiday. It presents challenges along the way with high spots and disappointments.  In Bethlehem we were denied access to the Grotto of the Nativity by a brusque Armenian monk preparing for prayer, we suffered at first hand the humiliation faced by Bethlehem Palestinians as were made to file through the security gate at that most horrible wall.   At least we could re-enter Israel whereas most of the residents are trapped in a Bethlehem which is denied the wealth and opportunities of nearby West Jeruslalem or Tel Aviv.  The town of Bethany showed us the poverty of Palestine with people living in old lorries and rubbish littering the streets. It was the closest we were to come to experiencing the sorrow of Gaza. A wilderness Eucharist was spoiled by a group of Bedouin children one of whom sank his teeth into my arm!

Ian was baptised during the pilgrimage

The highspots were spectacular. Galilee was beautiful as ever although the water levels had dropped considerably since 2007.  Eucharist by the water at Tagba reinforced my belief that it is one of the most beautiful places on the planet. I selected a photograph of Tagba as my screen saver last time. I little knew that it would be the location of my first communion.  The reason for this was that I was baptised during the pilgrimage at a new location for us at Banias, the source of the River Jordan.

I was humbled and privileged to be baptised by Bishop Christopher Foster and he too was delighted because it's not everyday you can carry out a baptism in the Jordan.

I have added a new photo gallery and audio material but please take time to look at the reports on both pilgrimages.

I hope the sounds and images will help you decide to make the journey of a lifetime.