Wed 26th January Only four days to go now to the big day and time for all embedded journalists to filter out into smaller groups throughout Southern Iraq. It’s another early start although 0730hrs improves on yesterday’s Baghdad trip. I am still trying to come to terms with the city’s aesthetic appeal when combined with it’s war-ravaged history, as it can very easily bring one to tears. As lack of sleep is still very much the order of the day, our two hour journey to Shaiba is well utilised in catching up. Upon arrival, I was relieved to find that all I had missed in terms of scenery was bare desert.
 | | Tanveer's new posh tent. |
As soon as we arrive, I realise that we have entered paradise compared to what we’ve endured for the past few days. Shaiba is Britain’s largest base in Iraq and the facilities here are comparatively so good, I’d like to rename it ‘The Shaiba Resort’. What with proper toilets, well-heated tents complete with mosquito netted bedding and bicycles to roam around in, given the situation, what more could one ask for? Our hosts for this leg of our embedded visit to Iraq were the Royal Dragoon Guards who have a history as a regiment dating back to 1685. Describing itself as amongst the finest regiments in the British cavalry, it emerged out of a protracted contest between James II and William of Orange for the English throne. Commanding Officer Jonathan Cray MBE matched his regiment’s pedigree with an awesome presentation covering everything from their history to the current scenario in Iraq. He described aspiring Iraqi politicians to derive from the educated elite or tribal leaders and that everything in terms of security for the election had been rigorously put in place.
 | | Iraqi flag. |
When asked to highlight major issues that existed at the moment, he described the oil pipelines that ran from North to South being sabotaged from time to time and due to the security forces being Shia, Sunnis were increasingly feeling left out from the rebuilding of their country. This was despite representing 35% of the population in large towns such as Az-Zubayr and Abu-al-Khaseeb, including sizeable minorities in other cities such as Al-Faw. Being left out would give them strong reason to boycott the election, which many of them have threatened to do. We also had time to visit the police academy where the current and future generation of Iraqi police were being prepared. Colonel Saleem Aja, when asked about his fears for the election pointed out that some people wanted to force others to vote in a particular way, while others didn’t want people to vote at all.
 | | Iraqi children, keen for attention. |
As we returned towards camp, cries of “Hello Mr.” resounded from kids in the streets of Az-Zubayr. “What your name? You British?” they asked. Iraqi children love their photographs being taken and they absolutely thrive on creating attention. Maybe an example of how well British troops are engaged with locals is the way in which they talk to these kids in first name terms. On a more serious note, when discussing how different the Americans were in their approach, was indicated by a soldier telling us of how Danish troops were recently fired on for coming too close to an American convoy. Fortunately, none of the casualties were fatal. Thursday 27th January Unfortunately, we are going to move on again and it’s Camp Chindit where we will be stationed for the next few days. The town of Az-Zubayr is where we will be focussing on in terms of getting an insight into a particular part of Iraq. Visiting police stations, polling stations, meeting influential people in the locality is what this embedding is all about.
 | | A prisoner at Al-Marbid police station. |
Al-Marbid police station gives us the opportunity to monitor how the Iraqi police are preparing for Sunday’s polls. Here, we can also find out what the local police are dealing with in terms of crimes on a day-to-day basis. Top of the list are vehicle hijackings and kidnappings for ransom. What about salaries? It may be difficult for people in Britain to understand how policemen can live on $320 (US) a month (about £180), or even that their working hours often involve having to work 24hr shifts every two days. In preparation for the election, most are ‘camping out’ in their respective police stations. As we moved on from the Al-Marbid police station to our next stop, we noticed AK-47 rifles being fired in the air. Our alarm was short-lived as we realised they were signifying the death of a near and dear one. Flags were also raised in remembrance. Visiting the Az-Zubair Town Council, they were quick to point out that in June 2004, they were the first elected council in Iraq since the fall of Saddam. Amongst their stated achievements were, the reduction of fuel queues for motorists compared to other parts of Iraq and that they had made inroads into improving the public infrastructure.
 | | Poster depicting end of Saddam's rule |
However, given that 35% of the population were Sunni, having only 2 representatives amongst 36 council members did indicate that all may not be so rosy. At Safwan, near the Kuwaiti border, we stopped by at a roadside flea-market. Speaking to a local trader, I asked whether he had sufficient information to decide on who he should vote for, “I will vote for who is good, I will visit all the political party’s offices, I think I will vote for an Islamic party” he explained. “But there are so many parties on the electoral list who have an Islamic name.” I pointed out. “No problem” he replied. Later, at Safwan Police station, I was further puzzled when the Police Chief described the US and the UK as the same. Nevertheless, he must be doing his job considering his force managed to find some TNT (bomb-making) devices in the desert just a few days earlier.
 | | Iraq/Kuwait border |
Our final stop for the day was at the Iraq/Kuwait border. It was interesting to learn that the Kuwaitis had apparently taken 5km of the border as compensation for the first Gulf War. Judging from the Iraqi border guard’s tone, it seemed they were fairly incensed by that. We learnt from L/Colonel Basit that 150 to 200 vehicles used the border every day (However, it would be closed from this evening till after Election day). Through shared cross-border intelligence, they were able to regularly apprehend drugs, arms and alcohol smugglers, he even proudly showed us some out of date sweets that hadn’t escaped his net. Having family in Cardiff and London, he was familiar with life in the UK and apart from wanting better technology to do his work he hoped that Iraq chooses a leader that is both scientific and diplomatic. Friday 28th January Chindit camp being the site of a former prison is so full of dust and lurking demons, it’s a pity we couldn’t stay at the ‘Shaiba resort’. Anyway, this is going to be a busy day as we drive into Az-Zubayr to meet the various political organisations that are vying for support in Sunday’s election. Along the route, a British soldier points out ‘The Red Route’, a busy crossroad where 500 attacks were conducted against British forces at the beginning of this conflict in March 2002. As we learnt of one Iraqi police captain killed and 3 other policemen injured last night, the reality of this conflict hit hard. It is also uncomfortable to learn that from time to time many Iraqi policemen fall out with each other, making the British military’s job even harder as ultimately they have to ensure the security situation does not get out of hand. | "Maybe an example of how well British troops are engaged with locals is the way in which they talk to these kids in first name terms." | | Tanveer Ahmed |
With car bombs left near polling stations last week and some of the British soldiers at Chindit camp expressing their mistrust of the Iraqi police and even Iraqi translators, to us mere onlookers it all sounds like a recipe for disaster. Our first port of call was the Al-Badr political party, which is run by the brother of an influential cleric (Bakir Hakim, who was killed last year at a religious celebration). Judging from the few election posters that are plastered on the walls belong to this organisation, it’s influence is unmistakeable. Their spokesperson Nazar Masood explained how they were initially a militia helped by Iran but had now transformed into a political organisation, helping the new Iraqi police to maintain law and order. This was followed by a meeting with the tribal council, who emphasised their role in keeping the peace amongst different factions since the fall of Saddam. Although some feel that their influence will be diluted after the election, they are at pains to describe their usefulness to a new Iraq. Accommodating and feeding the Iraqi Election Commission on election day is perhaps one way of ensuring that. The small township of Al-Arab is where we meet Ayatollah Saeed Naeem. Although beginning his career as a radio broadcaster during the 1980’s, he managed to get on the wrong side of Saddam as did many others, ending up in jail for eleven years.
 | | Ayatollah Saeed Naeem, big film fan. |
Interestingly, he showed a great affection for American films and almost wished he could take his turban off to discuss them at length. He gave us more laughs when describing the difference between ‘Yankees’ and ‘Gentlemen’ (referring to US and UK forces). Back in town, Shaikh Ahmed Saleih (spokesperson for Grand Ayatollah Sistani) was at pains to play down the influence of clerics within the political process, pointing out that out of the 7,400 candidates taking part in the election process, only 9 were religious Shias. Our first opportunity to meet Sunnis came when we met Sheikh Abdul Karim and Sheikh Khalid who had a list of complaints ranging from refusal of the Iraqi Police to recruit Sunnis, many of whom were languishing in jails and being generally upset that the military occupation had devised a system for Iraqis to follow. After dinner, I was keen to accompany Major Chris Haithwaite to meet Colonel Kadim Hussain at the Central Police Station. I asked the Colonel what changes he would like to see after the election, “Prisoners should be reformed by mentoring, not by arresting and detaining 15 people indefinitely when 5 people may have committed a crime.” He heaped so much praise on Major Chris that I suggested he be given the freedom of the town of Az-Zubayr. Tanveer Ahmed is a journalist for the Muslim Weekly and will be keeping us up to date with all the events surrounding the Iraqi elections, come back soon to read his latest diary entries. You can see more of Tanveer's photographs from Iraq by using the link at the top of the page on the right. | 
