September 2008
The growth of 'gling' (green bling) is fast becoming the jewel in the ethical fashion crown
It's taken a while for the fashion world to wise up to the ethics of the jewellery that gilds it. But at last ethical jewellers are making their mark. Some source all their materials ethically, while others campaign for workers' rights and support fair trade through dedicated projects.
Whether you're after a high-end designer item or something fun and funky, there isn't a woven grass knot or string of seeds in sight!
They say diamonds are forever, so before splashing out it's worth checking your rocks haven't helped fund conflict in war-torn Africa. Many mainstream jewellers now only stock 'conflict-free' diamonds certified by the international Kimberley Process, including Knightsbridge jeweller Duttson Rocks, which trace all their stones' origins.
When David Rhode proposed to his fiancée, he discovered how hard it was to find an ethical engagement ring. This led to the birth of Ingle & Rhode (www.ingleandrhode.co.uk), the UK's first ethical fine jewellery business. Stocking a wide range of designer jewellery, the company only buys gold produced without mercury or cyanide, 100 per cent recycled platinum, and fully traceable diamonds.
Also at the luxury end of the market, with engagement and wedding rings as well as other nature-inspired designs, Fifi Bijoux's pieces are produced without human rights abuses and unwarranted environmental impact. Its gold is sourced from fair trading, co-operative mines that practice environmental stewardship. And the stones are cut in workshops which don't use child labour or exploit employees.
Luxury jeweller Cred similarly focuses on social and environmental ethics. A proportion of its profits support the Cred Foundation, funding international humanitarian projects. Visit www.cred.org.uk for more details.
But ethical jewellery isn't just about precious stones and metals. Check out some of the fantastic pieces made from alternative materials:
Doy Bags' necklaces and bracelets have the rich colour of pricey jewels, but are actually made from old plastic by a Philippines women's cooperative.
Beaucoco also puts recycled plastic to use in its jewellery and bags made by disadvantaged groups around the world. It combines recycled plastic bags from Delhi, coconut shells from a remote Indian Ocean island and sterling silver to create delicate and quirky designs.
www.lejudesigns.com makes jewellery using 'vegetable ivory' from a palm seed found in the Amazonian rainforest. It looks and feels like elephant ivory, but is 100 per cent sustainable, providing an alternative to forest farming and killing elephants for their tusks.
For everyday style with a conscience, try People Tree's eclectic range of funky Fairtrade jewellery made from a range of materials including recycled glass, shells, brass and wood.
Made also has a growing range of covetably wearable bling designed for a Western aesthetic – designers include Alexa Chung – and produced to strict ethical guidelines.
The web's a great place to find ethical jewellery. Check out the pieces produced by ethical design collective www.revampfashion.co.uk, or find an ethical jewellery shop in your area visit www.livingethically.co.uk. And don’t forget vintage - giving pieces a second lease of life is always ethical. Scour your local charity shops, or try websites such as www.bejewelledvintage.co.uk or www.passionateaboutvintage.co.uk.
Joanna Yarrow is a broadcaster, writer and consultant specialising in green living. She's GMTV's eco expert and presented BBC Three's Outrageous Wasters
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