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February 2004
Antarctica: 4th-14th December 2003
By Stephen Dean, photographs by Louise Baker
Akedemik Ioffe in Ushuiai
Akedemik Ioffe in Ushuaia
My interest in birds and other wildlife began, here in Suffolk, over 30 years ago.
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Day One - 4th December - Setting Sail

The Beginning of Everything

Ushuaia is a city of about 45,000 people lying at a latitude corresponding with northern Scotland and scenically it is similar to the western Highlands, with rugged, snow-capped mountains, extensive forests and great fjords. Being there at the beginning of December meant that the day-length and climate were similar to those of northern Scotland in early June.

Ushuaia - view from the quay
Ushuaia - view from the quay

Emblazoned on the harbour wall are the words "Ushuaia: the end of the world; the beginning of everything". Having hoped to one day make this trip this somehow seemed to encapsulate our sense of anticipation as the Ioffe slipped her mooring that evening and eased into the Beagle Channel.

Akedemik Ioffe
The Ioffe is a quiet, warm and comfortable vessel and she is kept in immaculate condition by her Russian crew. Meals are taken in a communal dining hall, which doubles as the lecture theatre, and there is a bar, a lounge and a library. In addition, passengers are allowed access to the ship's bridge and its outside wings, which allow for a commanding view. Access is also permitted to the other decks so there is always somewhere available from which to enjoy the view, take in some fresh air and look out for birds and other wildlife.

Akedemik Ioffe
Akedemik Ioffe

Setting Sail
The first evening saw us sailing east from Ushuaia along the Beagle Channel on our way to the South Atlantic and the notorious Drake Passage, which separates South America from the Antarctic Peninsula. The conditions were calm as we cruised along this stretch of water, with Argentina on our port (left hand) side and Chile on our starboard (right hand) side, but we wondered what the Drake Passage would have in store for us as we settled into our cabin for the night after a lifeboat drill, the introductory talk by our expedition leader, Bill Davis, and the first of many delicious dinners.

Day 2 - The Drake Passage »

 

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e.g. Edie, Carlisle
A great place-I lived a dream and worked there

e.g. Tom, Ipswich
yer sure it was

lesley Ipswich
absolutely fantastic - trip of a lifetime and great photographs! I'm very jealous!!

Happy
Great site an exelent program!!

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