In May 2006 my wife and I travelled to Britain from Australia to visit family in the Midlands. Before meeting them we spent several days driving around the small parishes in the north of Suffolk, west of the A144. This is a region that is well away from regular tourist itineraries and yet it is peaceful and relaxed with much to appreciate and enjoy.
The notion to visit the region initially came from a desire to follow the footsteps of my ancestors after I had spent some time researching my family history.
With the assistance of staff at the record office of the Suffolk County Council I learned that my ancestors had lived in the South Elmham and nearby parishes.
Anyone researching ancestry will know that records of baptisms, marriages and burials prior to 1837 are found in the registers of each parish church so it becomes natural to think of our ancestors in terms of their connection to a local church, as the parish names figure prominently in the research.
In the course of planning my trip I found that my interest shifted slightly away from ancestors and became focused on the churches themselves. I came away feeling well rewarded.
Popular heritage sites throughout Britain receive plenty of attention from locals and visitors but the humble parish churches which can be seen in fields adjacent to the motorways are passed by, seemingly without much thought or appreciation.
And yet, collectively, they are a significant part of Britain’s cultural heritage. Individually they can be places of pilgrimage for the ancestor seeker like myself. For other visitors they are simply wonderful places to step into, full of character and interest.
Wintersdale by J. Freestone
Suffolk has approximately 40 round towered churches which are of special architectural interest and are mostly of great age. This number, surprisingly, is more than can be seen in all of Germany which has just 20 (other European countries have fewer still), and is exceeded only by neighbouring Norfolk which has 120 or so.
In all, Suffolk has well over 500 medieval churches so there is ample to see, considerably more than the average visitor can achieve in a limited amount of time.
But with a little careful planning a short trip taking in a dozen or so churches is most rewarding, combining the best elements of medieval architecture, stained glass and other internal and external features, all set in a backdrop of a remarkably varied landscape.
Each year millions of visitors from around the world are drawn to Europe’s crumbling and broken ruins of the Roman Empire. For all the appeal of these historic sites, they are merely lifeless skeletons of a former greatness, the perception of which is left to the imagination.
On the other hand, Suffolk’s churches are, for the most part, living, working structures. They are loved by the tiny communities that exist within their midst but deserve a much greater appreciation by the wider community, visitors and locals alike.
Almost all of them pre-date Tudor times with some as early as the Norman period. A few are older again, pre-dating the Norman Conquest. They have endured and survived the destructive elements of Time, Weather and the Reformation.
Anyone wishing to sample the culture that is uniquely and proudly British should take some time to turn off the motorway and explore the heart of England’s charming rural communities.
For my wife and I, Suffolk provided a welcoming, friendly and colourful experience. As well as the towns of Lowestoft, Beccles and Bungay, we visited the parish churches of Barsham, Mettingham, Ilketshall St Margaret, the South Elmhams, Mendham, Withersdale, Metfield, Fressingfield and Wingfield. Of these, the churches of Barsham, Mettingham, Ilketshall St Margaret and South Elmham All Saints are round towered.
Barsham Tower by J. Freestone
The surrounding scenic countryside has gentle rises and falls to the Waveney valley which provides the northern border for the county. We were able to navigate the roads with ease despite a reputation in the South Elmhams that the unwary motorist will become lost, which I found was not the case.
In the villages my favourite church was Withersdale which is wonderfully pretty with a postcard-like view. Barsham is stunning with an extraordinary stone lattice-work wall encompassing the east window, a fine round tower and much to admire within.
We enjoyed a hearty cooked lunch at St Peter’s Brewery which also has a gift and souvenir shop. Similar facilities can apparently be found at nearby Bateman’s Barn although we did not have the opportunity to go there. We purchased additional refreshments at the shop in Metfield.
My particular interest in family research took us in our travels to Suffolk and we were well pleased that it did.
There are undoubtedly many reasons to visit this part of England with coastline, countryside, recreational sports and entertainment, art and architecture, history and culture, but anyone wishing to combine a visit to Suffolk with family research as I did would do well to contact the Suffolk County Council Record Offices beforehand.
There are several offices located in the county and the staff are friendly, helpful and more than happy to point you in the right direction to get you started. Before too long you will embark on a fulfilling journey that will put you in touch with your own personal heritage.
For those without family connections to the county, take a little time to explore these beautiful churches and villages anyway. It is an experience in British cultural heritage that is available for everyone to enjoy.
