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by
BBC South Yorkshire
contributor Sean O'Keefe |
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Alongside
one of Sheffield's main arterial roads sits a red brick building.
To
the charitable eye, one would say it is in need of a little repair.
The
uncharitable eye would say it's a dump in need of a bulldozer.
Yet
appearances can be deceptive. Inside this unremarkable exterior
is produced a magical substance so beloved of Sheffielders the world
over that many of them go to exceptional lengths to get their hands
on it.
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Hands
off! This bottle's ours!
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In
this factory over half a million bottles of Henderson's Relish are
produced each year and find their way onto the tables of Sheffielders,
ex-patriots and former US presidents across the globe.
Eagle-eyed
fans have even reported sightings in Cook's station in the Antarctic.
People
love Henderson's Relish.
For
Marcel Proust it was Madeline. One bite of that small, sweet cake
and he was transported back through time. For Sheffield musician
Richard Hawley, returning back to the city battered and bruised
from touring with Pulp, it was his favourite meal of sausage and
mash doused in Henderson's that reduced him to tears in his kitchen
vowing to hang up his guitar and never go on the road again.
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Richard
Hawley, muso and Hendo's addict
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"Being
at home after a massive world tour meant my family were so happy
to see me and I them. My wife made me sausage and mash with, of
course, Hendo's. I found it very moving. I'm sure most people would."
It's
all a familiar story to Henderson's general manager Wendi Hebb.
Wendi hopes to provide the same touch to a product which has remained
largely unaltered for over a hundred years.
Every
day she receives letters from around the world from people requesting
more bottles, as well as callers to the factory in Leavygreave Road
who invariably leave with large plastic containers of the stuff.
"It's
amazing how much people care about Henderson's. They really see
it as part of the history of Sheffield, which it is.
"We
get letters from all over the world from people wanting to buy it.
The cost of shipping makes it more expensive than oil but it's a
taste of home."
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Chef
Martin Shaw (r) has prepared dishes with Hendo's for the likes
of Bill Clinton
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It
isn't just the plates of Sheffielders that have Henderson's on it.
Private chef Martin Shaw in California has prepared dishes of marinated
ostrich and Opakapaka fish using the relish for the likes of Bill
Clinton, Barbara Streisand and Dustin Hoffman.
It
all started back in 1885. Dr Kenneth Freeman, present owner of Henderson's
takes up the story.
"Henry
Henderson created the recipe. He sold the relish from his general
grocery store at 35 Broad Lane, just a stone's throw from the existing
factory."
"Apart
from producing the relish he was also a dry salter, wholesaler and
druggist."
In
1910 Henry Henderson sold the business to Shaws of Huddersfield,
who still produce pickles to this day.
They
moved the business to 66 Leavygreave Road, close to the site of
the present location. Charles Hinksman was appointed Managing Director
and he bought the company in 1940. He is the uncle of the current
owner although the reasons behind his decision to sell are unknown.
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Charles
Hinksman, former MD and owner of Henderson's
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"Whether
Shaws sold the company as they anticipated that the war would both
reduce sales due to rationing and make it difficult to gain exotic
ingredients such as tamarinds and molasses, we are not sure."
For
the last twelve years Dr Freeman has been the latest member of the
family to look after one of Sheffield's most famous and historical
brands. Yet surprisingly he isn't a Sheffielder - far from it. He
lives in Liverpool and regularly commutes to the city.
An
urban myth surrounds the secret ingredients that make up Henderson's
Relish. Yet Wendi Hebb laughs this off. "Legislation prevents
us from withholding the ingredients. They're all there on the bottle
for those who want to make their own.
"But
you'd have to get the right quantities." And therein lies the
secret.
The
future for Henderson's could be different if Wendi has her way.
"We're working on a deal that could see Henderson's available
across the country."
118
years after Henry Henderson first hit upon the idea of a relish
to improve the taste of poor quality cuts of meat available to families
in Sheffield his idea may soon be finding a whole new audience nationwide.
-
Sean O'Keefe
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