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16 October 2014

Arnish Lighthouse

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Deserted villages

In Lewis, there are at least 30 of them, most of those thirty being in the district of Eishken. Since the early 19th century, this large chunk of the island has lain derelict. It was the old story that sheep made more money than people. Incidentally, during the Napoleonic wars, the landowners were more than happy to have people on their land. They could nicely rake in all the kelp, which was the base material for gunpowder in those days. Because of the blockade of Britain by Napoleon's fleet, imports of guano (bird droppings) were halted. An alternative source of nitrate had to be found, and burning kelp was found to be yielding nice quantities of potassium nitrate. But when the war was over, and ships were able to bring in guano again, there was no more need for kelp in the huge quantities that the war required. As stated above, sheep were found to be more profitable than the dirt poor cottars, so the lairds employed all sort of tactics, fair, foul and anything in between, to shift the people off their land. Most readers will have heard the stories of the ship in the bay, a party of men sent ashore to torch the houses and the residents told to board the ship. Others were sent packing to another part of the island.
Lewis has seen quite a lot of these tactics. From the west of the island come stories of people from Uig being shunted across Loch Roag to Carloway; Gearrannan residents moved to Dalmore, then to Dalbeg, then to Shawbost. And further north. One man who worked for the Mathesons in their day was rewarded for his loyalty by having his croft extended at the cost of a neighbour's, who was in arrears in rent. A chunk of the neighbour's croft was taken away and awarded to the loyal worker. Who subsequently couldn't show his face in the village again.

Returning to the southeast, Eishken was cleared of its 30 villages in the 1820s. I have tried to locate them, but the only decent 19th century map in Stornoway library is post-clearance and shows no traces of the old settlements. When people were moved to other areas in the island, this led to a degree of 'congestion'. There was not sufficient land to go round. In the history of the Highlands and Islands, the year 1886 is a red-letter year. This was the year when the Crofters' act came into force, which awarded security of tenure to crofters, and made it impossible for landowners to summarily evict people from their land. The following few years were very important in Lewis, as they were punctuated by civil disobedience if not uprisings. One such event focused on Eishken, and has become known as the Parc Raids. In 1887, a group of men, led by a Balallan schoolteacher, committed a mass trespass on the Eishken estate and helped themselves to deer. As they sat consuming the venison, the men were ordered off the land, which they refused to do. The sherriff had to come down and read the men the riot act. As there was no intention to stay for any length of time, the park raiders left Kinloch Shell and were arrested. They had made their point. A monument to the raid stands by the Stornoway to Tarbert road, at the junction of the 7 mile road to Eishken.

To this day, Eishken stands empty. It is the playground of the rich for shooting deer. There are plans, as I mentioned in an earlier post, to build a 133-turbine windfarm on the estate. It would mean the desecration of a magnificent mountain landscape, not just of Eishken itself (with Beinn Mhor up to 1900 ft), but also of the adjacent Harris hills. Instead of planting turbines, why not use that piece of legislation I heard about which requires landowners to allow people to resettle on derelict and unused land? Wouldn't it be nice if places like those listed below were repopulated?

The number after each name represents the Ordnance Survey national grid reference, which should be prefixed with the letters NB to obtain the full reference. There were reputedly 36 villages, 27 of which I have the names. The names of another 9 are unknown to me, the location of several known ones eludes me as yet. Further info welcome. Map reproduced with kind permission of HM Ordnance Survey of Great Britain and Northern Ireland. Apologies for its quality.

1 Bhalamos Beag - 291010
2 Bhalamos Mor - 298016
3 Caolas an Eilean -
4 Bagh Ciarach - 251021
5 Ceannamhor - 223067
6 Scaladale Beag - 220100
7 Scaladale Mor - 218120
8 Stromas
9 Brinigil - 277159
10 Bagh Reimsabhaigh - 258025
11 Smosivig - 273049
12 Glean Claidh - 253066
13 Brollum - 322031
14 Ceann Chrionaig - 311055
15 Mol Truis - 359056
16 Mol Chadha Ghearraidh - 367066
17 Ailtenish - 368088
18 Budhanais - 332100
19 Ceann Loch Shealg - 294107
20 Eilean Iubhard - 380100
21 Isginn [Eishken] - 326119
22 Steimreway - 346116
23 Cuiriseal
24 Gearraidh Riasaidh
25 Bun Chorcabhig - 263033
26 Gilmhicphaic - 217083
27 Ceann Sifiord - 295163
Posted on Arnish Lighthouse at 13:07


Without wishing to upset anyone - and I do find your accounts very interesting - the island looks very bleak and uninviting.I don't think I've seen a single tree on any of your photos! I'm sure the locals would be more welcoming than the scenery though!

Patricia from Cumbria

Patricia, there are actually trees in Lewis. It's a question of taste, I like the wild open spaces, which is why trees do not feature in my pics so far. But it's a valid point, and I'll devote a few lines to trees in the island.

Arnish Lighthouse from Stornoway

Locals are very lovely Patricia. Back of Beyond's 'Photos at Last' blog has pictures of some quite sociable looking trees. (Hope this is in time to prevent a hoard of snapping bloggers causing chaos on the Laxdale Bypass as they rush to the Castle grounds with their digital cameras to find an appealing copse.)

Annie B from Lone Sheiling 17

Fank-goers travelling from Stornoway to South Dell will be able to view a winsome windbreak of evergreens to the left of the road by Agnes's bungalow in Galson.

Teresa Forhugging from Ballantrushal Arboretum

We lived for almost 20 years on the Isle of Lewis and the problem I found was not the island but the locals - The island is fantastic and we miss it very much however we never felt welcome. We tried our very best to get involved and the comments were either "you incomers always try and butt in to local issues" to "why dont you say your piece when it affects you" We felt we could never win. In another blog there is mention about the cost of products to the island - this was another problem we found buy local and get the 50% added, as incomers could afford it or buy off the internet and get told " you incomers dont support the local businesses" Since moving I have not heard the word incomer or stranger or felt unwelcome, the oposite is true. We are made to feel very welcome. No wonder people still leave the island. We would have been on Lewis for life if we had been made welcome. My comment is forget the trees, thats not the problem - support the people who want to live amongst you and perhaps dont push the bible quite so hard. Unless of course you just want the island to yourselves and the few trees.

arnold from lancashire

I dont want this to become a slagging match, but I was an incomer to Lewis over thirty years ago. I have never been made to feel the same way as Arnold - I have been welcomed and this is now my home - nowhere else is. It is not easy for everyone to adapt but it is certainly possible with the right minded approach. Nobody ever calls me an incomer or a stranger - and there are others like me in my own community who have also fully integrated - and they are all different. I for one cannot imagine myself anywhere else.

nonamegiven from Lewis

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