Woven fabrics

Woven [woven: made from warp and weft yarns interwoven at right angles. ] fabrics are made up of a weft - the yarn going across the width of the fabric - and a warp - the yarn going down the length of the loom. The side of the fabric where the wefts are double back to form a non-fraying edge is called the selvedge.

There are two types of woven fabrics:

Plain-weave fabric

In plain-weave the warp and weft are aligned so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. It is strong and hardwearing. It is used for fashion and furnishing fabrics.

Twill-weave

In twill-weave the crossings of weft and warp are offset to give a diagonal pattern on the fabric surface. Twill weave is strong and drapes [drapes: hangs or behaves when pleated or folded ] well. It is used for jeans, jackets and curtains.

Knitted fabrics

There are two types of knitted fabrics weft-knitted and Warp-knitted.

Weft-knitted fabrics

Weft-knitted fabrics are made by hand or machine. Weft knits are used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.

• Weft-knitted fabric is made by looping together long lengths of yarn. This makes the fabric stretchy and comfortable.
• The yarn runs in rows across the fabric. If a stitch is dropped it will ladder down the length of the fabric.
• Weft knits, made by hand or machine, are used for socks, T-shirts and jumpers.

Warp-knitted fabric

Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine and is used for swimwear.

• Warp-knitted fabric is made by machine.
• The loops interlock vertically along the length of the fabric. Warp knits are slightly stretchy and do not ladder.
• They are used for swimwear, underwear and geotextiles.

Non-woven fabrics

Non-woven fabric is made by bonding or felting:

• Bonded-fibre fabrics are made from webs of synthetic [synthetic: man-made - usually from chemical sources ] fibres bonded together with heat or adhesives. They are cheap to produce, but not as strong as woven or knitted fabrics. Bonded-fibre fabrics are mainly used for interlining [interlining: layer of fabric sown into the neck or armholes of a garment to protect and strengthen it. Also called interfacing. ]. They are easy to sew, crease-resistant, do not fray and are stable to washing and dry-cleaning.
• Wool felt is a non-woven fabric made from animal hair or wool fibres matted together using moisture, heat and pressure. Felt has no strength, drape [drape: the supple and flexible characteristics of a fabric - how it hangs or behaves when pleated or folded ] or elasticity but is warm and does not fray. Wool felt is expensive. It is used for hats and slippers and in handcrafts.

Modern, smart and combination fabrics

Modern and smart fabrics [smart fabrics: fabrics which respond to the needs of the wearer in different environments ] are designed to maximise characteristics such as lightness, breathability, waterproofing etc - or to react to heat or light. They are usually manufactured using microfibres.

Some key modern fabrics and their properties

Combination fabrics

Fabrics can be layered and combined to improve their handle, appearance or performance. For example:

• An interfacing fabric such as Vilene can be stitched or laminated [laminated: two or more layers or sheets bonded together ] to other fabrics. This reinforces, stiffens and gives strength to collars and cuffs and prevents the fabric from stretching or sagging.
• A quilted fabric has two or more layers sewn together to give an attractive appearance and added warmth.
• Gore-Tex can be laminated to another fabric using adhesive [adhesive: a substance which bonds the surfaces of materials together ] or heat. Gore-Tex is used for all-weather clothing and shoes because it is breathable and waterproof.

Choosing materials

It is important to choose materials that are fit for their purpose. Choosing a fabric with the appropriate quality and cost will ensure that a product will suit the target market [target market: the end-user or consumer group to whom the manufacturer aims to sell ] and do the job it is intended to do. When making fabric choices, ask yourself the following questions:

• Fibre content - should you use natural [natural: derived from animal, vegetable or mineral sources ] or synthetic [synthetic: man-made - usually from chemical sources ] fibres?
• Fabric construction - should you use woven, knitted or non-woven?
• Manufacturing processes - should you use dyeing, printing, mechanical finishing [mechanical finishing: treatment of a fabric by a machine, using heat and pressure to improve the fabric's appearance. ] or chemical finishing [chemical finishing: applying a chemical solution or resin to improve the appearance, handle or performance of a fabric. ]?
• End-use of the fabric. What are you making - jeans, jumper, sportswear or a seatbelt?
• Maintenance. What are the aftercare [aftercare: how a textile should be washed, ironed, dried or dry-cleaned to maintain its properties. ] requirements of the product?

The fibre content, fabric construction and finishing processes determine the fabric's aesthetic [aesthetic: relating to shape, style, colour, pattern and other aspects of a product's visual appeal ], functional [functional: relating to the performance of a product - its 'fitness for purpose' ] and comfort properties.

Properties of fabric

It is important to match fabric properties to the requirements of the product. For example:

• Cycling jackets need to be made from warm, breathable, elastic, windproof, water-resistant fabric.
• Children's jumpers need to be made from soft, colourful, stretchy, warm, easy-care fabric.
• Seat belts, airbags or conveyor belts need to be made from strong, durable, flame-resistant materials.
• Fire protective clothing needs to be strong, durable, flame- and water-resistant. It may also need to be breathable and elastic.
• Geotextiles [geotextiles: textile materials used in contact with soil or rocks in the construction of roads or embankments. They stabilise the land and enable water to filter through. ] need to be strong and durable so they stop embankments from slipping.

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