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NIGEL'S RECIPES

Latest Recipes | 2008 part 12007 part 2 | 2007 part 1

Gulls Eggs
NIGEL'S RECIPES

Catch up on the dishes featured in Nigel Barden's food slot, every Thursday on Drivetime.

** Read Nigel's biography


                                                                                           

Sautéed Eel With Persillade

By Rick Stein from French Odyssey

Serves 4

Preparation time less than 30 mins

Cooking time less than 10 mins

This resulted from an idyllic eel-fishing trip in the Garonne. Bernard, the skipper, served them up for dinner like this. I think nothing could bring out the delicious quality of eel fat better than this simple saute with garlic and parsley.
Ingredients
For the eel
450g/14¾oz skinned eel on the bone
25g/1oz plain flour, for dusting
For the persillade
10g/½oz peeled garlic
15g/½oz flatleaf parsley leaves
1 tbsp sunflower oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
50g/1¾oz unsalted butter
To serve
lemon wedges
crusty bread

Method
1. Cut the eel across into 5cm/2in pieces, then dust them with the flour and knock off the excess.
2. For the persillade, put the garlic onto a board and crush briefly under the blade of a large knife. Add the parsley leaves and finely chop them together.
3. Heat the oil in a large frying pan, add the eel pieces and sauté on one side over a medium heat for 2-3 minutes, seasoning them lightly with a little salt and pepper as they cook. Turn them over, season once more and fry for a further 2-3 minutes until cooked through.
4. When the eel is almost cooked, take a second frying pan, add the butter and melt it over a medium heat. Add the persillade and cook very gently for 15 seconds to take away the raw taste of the garlic.
5. Tip the fried eel pieces into the second pan and toss everything together well.
6. Transfer to a warmed serving plate, garnish with the lemon wedges and serve with plenty of crusty bread.
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Roast Grouse by Christopher Sykes from Upper Crust

Serves 1
Preparation timeless than 30 mins
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins
Ingredients
1 grouse
55g/2oz butter
2 pieces of streaky bacon, rind removed
a few sprigs of thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Rub the grouse all over with the butter including the inside cavity. Then lay the bacon across the breast of the grouse.
2. Season generously with salt and pepper, put the thyme sprigs over breasts and place in a hot oven for 10 minutes, then lower to a moderate oven for 5 more minutes (for rare) and 10 minutes (for well done).

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Cheese In A Box by James Martin from Housecall

Serves 4

Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time less than 10 mins

Ingredients
1 box of camembert or Cooleney (Irish cheese)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 thyme sprigs
olive oil

Method

1. Remove the wrapping from the cheese and discard.
2. Slice the cheese in half horizontally and return to the box; one half in the lid, the other in the base.
3. Season each half with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Add a sprig of thyme to each and drizzle both with olive oil.
4. Bake in a hot oven for approximately 5 minutes or until the cheese has melted.
5. Serve in the boxes with crusty bread for dipping.
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Apples

Curried parsnip and apple soup
by Antony Worrall Thompson from Saturday Kitchen

Serves 6
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients 1 heaped tsp coriander seeds
1 heaped tsp cumin seeds
6 whole cardamom pods, seeds only
40g/1½oz butter
1 tbsp oil
2 medium onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic
1 heaped tsp ground ginger
1 tsp turmeric 700g/1lb young parsnips
1.2litres/2 pints good flavoured vegetable or chicken stock
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1 medium Bramley apple
double cream, to serve

Method
1. Heat a small frying pan and dry roast the coriander, cumin and cardamom seeds. This is to toast them and draw out their flavour.
2. After 2-3 minutes, they will change colour and start to jump in the pan. Remove them from the pan and crush them finely with a pestle and mortar.
3. Heat the butter and oil in a pan until the butter begins to foam, then add the onions and cook for two minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute, then add all the crushed spices, along with the ginger and turmeric, stir and let it all continue to cook gently for a few more minutes while you peel and chop the parsnips into 2.5cm/1in cubes.
4. Add the parsnips to the pan, stirring well, then pour in the stock, add some seasoning and let the soup simmer as gently as possible for one hour without putting on a lid.
5. When the soup has been simmering for an hour, remove it from the heat, then liquidise it if possible. If not, use a food processor and then sieve, squashing the ingredients through using the bowl or a ladle.
6. After the soup has been pureéd return it to the pan and taste to check the seasoning.
7. When you're ready to serve, re-heat very gently.
8. Peel the apple and, as the soup just reaches simmering point, grate the apple into it. Be careful to let the soup barely simmer for only 3-4 minutes.
9. Swirl in the double cream and serve in hot soup bowls.

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Bacon and apple salad
by Ed Baines from Ready Steady Cook

Preparation time less than 30 mins, Cooking time less than 10 mins
Serves 1

Ingredients

2 slices bacon, sliced
1 apple, peeled and sliced
1 thick slice bread, cut into chunks
pinch chilli flakes
large handful mixed herbs
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp red wine vinegar


Method
1. Pan-fry the bacon until crisp and golden.
2. Remove from pan and throw in the apples. Cook until browned and slightly softened.
3. Remove the apple mixture from the pan and put the chunks of bread in the remaining juices. Cook until crisp and golden.
4. Place the bacon, apple and bread with the chilli flakes and herbs in a mixing bowl and stir in the dressing of the olive oil and red wine vinegar. Mix together.
5. Serve.

and click here for the recipe for those delicious Potato Cakes.

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Roast Saddle of Venison with a Ragout of Broad Beans, Peas, and Smoked Bacon
by Michael Caines from Countryfile Summer Diaries

Preparation time 30 mins to 1 hourCooking time 10 to 30 mins
Serves 4

Ingredients For the venison

800g/1¾lb saddle of venison, trimmed and ready to cook
salt and freshly ground black pepper
dash vegetable oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter

For the ragout
160g/5½oz unsalted butter
280g/10oz button onions, peeled
120g/4¼oz smoked bacon lardons
290ml/10fl oz water
60g/2¼oz peas
60g/2¼oz broad beans, peeled
1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary

Method
1. For the venison, heat a little oil and the butter in a thick-bottomed pan. Season the venison with salt and freshly ground black pepper. When the butter is foaming add the venison and sear the meat on all sides. Cook for approximately ten minutes for medium-rare then remove from the heat and leave to rest for a further 15 minutes.
2. For the ragout, melt 40g/1½oz butter in a pan and add the button onions. When the onions are lightly coloured, add the lardons and brown well. Pour the water into the pan, just covering the onions and lardons. Cover the pan with a piece of buttered greaseproof or parchment paper and cook until the water has reduced and the onions are soft.
3. Once the onions are cooked, add the peas and broad beans and cook for a further two minutes. Whisk in the remaining butter to thicken the sauce and add the chopped rosemary.
4. To serve, slice the venison. Place a little ragout into the middle of four serving plates and place the venison on top. Pour more of the sauce over and around.

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Roasted Venison with Roasted Vegetables
by Antony Worrall Thompson

Preparation time less than 30 minsCooking time 10 to 30 mins
Serves 1
Ingredients
1 tsp olive oil
1 venison steak
a few thyme sprigs
1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
For the roast vegetables
1 tbsp olive oil
1 sweet potato, peeled and cut into discs
1-2 garlic cloves, peeled
a few thyme sprigs
½ red onion, peeled and cut into wedges

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7.
2. To make the roast vegetables, heat the oil in an oven-proof pan and sauté the sweet potato and garlic for a few minutes, to soften. Add the thyme and onion to the pan and heat for a further two minutes.
3. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast the vegetables for 10-15 minutes, or until tender and charred.
4. To make the venison, heat the oil in a pan and sear the venison for one minute on each side. Add the thyme and garlic to the pan and then transfer to the oven and roast for 10-15 minutes, or until the venison is cooked.
5. Remove the venison and roast vegetables from the oven and serve.
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Pot Roasted Venison
Preparation time overnightCooking time over 2 hours
Serves 8-9
Ingredients
1 haunch venison, 3kg/6¾lb in weight
570ml/1 pint red wine
1 onion, peeled and sliced
2 bay leaves
6 juniper berries, crushed
60ml/2fl oz balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp redcurrant jelly

Method
1. Mix together the wine, vinegar, onion, bayleaves and juniper berries to make a marinade. Put the venison in a large dish and pour over the marinade. Cover and leave in a cool place for 24 hours.
2. Heat the oven to 170C/325F/Gas 3.
3. Take the venison out of the marinade and dry with kitchen paper. Cook quickly to brown the meat in a non-stick frying pan and put in a large casserole dish. Bring the marinade to boiling point and add to the casserole. Season with salt and pepper and cover. Bake in the oven for 3 hours.
4. Take out the meat and allow to rest for 10 minutes before carving.
5. Reduce the marinade by a quarter and stir in the jelly until glossy. Serve with the venison.


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Salad of radicchio, chicory and rocket by James Martin from Housecall Serves 4

Preparation time less than 30 mins Cooking time no cooking required

Ingredients 1 head radicchio, finely sliced 2 heads chicory cut in 2.5cm/1in pieces handful of rocket leaves 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 tbsp aged red wine vinegar 1 tsp Dijon mustard 1 shallot, finely sliced salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method 1. Mix the three salad leaves and place in a bowl. 2. Combine the remaining ingredients and spoon enough dressing over the salad to lightly coat the leaves and toss to combine.

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Crayfish Boil by Stefan Pflaumer of Back to Basics Restaurant, Foley St, London W1

Ingredients:
Serves 4

4-6 Crayfish per person (depending on hunger)
Crayfish seasoning:
6 tsp paprika
6 tsp celery salt
1 tsp coriander seeds
1 tsp black pepper
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground mace
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp ground celery

1. Bring a large pan of water to the boil (4-5 pints, 2-3 litres) & add the crayfish seasoning.

2. Keep at a fierce boil, with a lid on & depending on your preference add the live crayfish 4-6 at a time & boil for 5 mins, by which time they should be floating on top of the water.

If you prefer not killing them this way, then get your fishmonger to kill them for you, or put them live into a freezer for half an hour, during which time they will become torpid & sleepy & drive the point of a knife through the back of their head before placing them in the boiling water.

3. Remove the crayfish with a slotted spoon, drain & cook next batch of crayfish.

4. Serve with a beer, & if you fancy some dips, then try mayonnaise, sweet chilli sauce or clarified butter. (For clarified butter, place a good dollop into a pan & melt slowly until the milk solids sink & clear golden liquid rises to surface. Skim off any scum & pour off the liquid for dipping).



RAYMOND BLANC'S PLUM CRUMBLE

Serves 2
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Special equipment: Gratin dishes
Cooking time: 20 min

Planning Ahead:
You can prepare the crumble topping one day in advance

Ingredients
For the crumble topping:
50g Butter, unsalted, room temperature
100g Plain flour
50g Castor sugar
2g Vanilla syrup (boil 1 chopped vanilla pod with 50ml of water and 50g of castor sugar and puree in a blender)

For the plums:
10g Butter, unsalted
10g Castor Sugar
200g Ripe plums, macerated with sugar
20ml (2tbsp) Plum alcohol (eau de Mirabelle)

For the Crumble:
Pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees C. In a large bowl, with your fingertips, rub the softened butter into the flour and sugar until the mixture forms a light breadcrumb texture then mix in the lemon zest and vanilla syrup. Sprinkle the crumble topping on an oven proof tray and place in the pre-heated oven to lightly colour for 20 minutes.

To cook the plums:
On a medium heat, in a medium stainless stell saucepan, melt the sugar and butter together. Cook for 4-5 minutes until the saugar and butter turn to a light caramel. Stir in the plums and cook for 3 minutes until bubbles are just breaking the surface and remove from the heat.

Serving:
Spoon the warm plums into the bottom of an ovenproof gratin dish, top with the crumble mix and re-heat through the oven. Serve with vanilla ice cream.

Chef's notes:
The amount of sugar will depend on the ripeness and quality of your fruit - taste first!
Do not over work the crumble mixture or the gluten in the flour will be activated causing the topping to become heavy!
The cooking time will depend on the ripenss of your plums.

Peas
Tonight Nigel talked peas..for his great recipe click here

Lamb

PATATAS ALINADAS’ BY Ben Tish of Salt Yard Restaurant, Goodge Street, London W1

Serves 2 (To serve 4 simply double the quantities)


1 x 250g lamb leg gigot cut in half. (Gigot as the leg is known in Scotland, originating from the French for ‘leg of Mutton’)
250g Jersey royal potatoes, cleaned and peeled
2 Piquillo peppers, sliced (these are the wood roasted red peppers from Navarra which can be bought in tins). Otherwise roast & skin an everyday red pepper
2 cloves garlic, crushed and chopped
25g parsley chopped
1 sprig rosemary
30ml olive oil
15ml extra virgin olive oil
5 ml white balsamic vinegar or any sweet vinegar
Sea salt and pepper

1. Marinate the lamb in the olive oil with the rosemary for 6 hours
2. Cook the jersey royals in boiling salted water until tender
3. When cooked drain and lightly crush with a fork, add the garlic, vinegar, extra virgin oil and piquillo peppers. Season well and keep warm.
4. Remove lamb from the marinade, season well and chargrill or pan fry until pink over a high heat, for 4 mins per side
5. Rest for five minutes, slice and serve on top of the patatas aliñadas.


For Nigels' other suggested recipe for roast leg of spring lamb with garlic and rosemary -
click here


Lamb top tips:






  • The fat should be creamy white, not oily or yellow, which again indicates age.
  • If the fat crumbles easily & looks brittle, it’s probably an indication it’s been frozen for some time, & will normally shrink during cooking & taste bland.
  • A blue tinge around the knuckle & rib bones suggests that the animal is young.
  • Lambs meat is particularly because the animals meet their maker before their connective tissues toughen & therefore the tissues dissolve more easily during cooking.

Olive Oil

Q: What are the different kinds of Olive Oil & how are they defined?

A: Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the first oil to be pressed from a batch. It’s cold-pressed, in that no heat is used & is naturally pressed, as you would do with grapes. The olives normally hand picked, to avoid bruising & must have less than 1% of oleic acidity. Extra Virgin is regarded as the finest & fruitiest & therefore the most expensive.

Virgin Olive Oil is a first pressed oil, but with an acidity of 1-3% & not as subtle.

Olive Oil (or Pure Olive Oil) is usually a blend of inferior refined olive oil & virgin oil.

Light Olive Oil is produced following an extremely fine filtration process & doesn’t have the smell & colour of classic olive oil, but it does have a higher smoke point & is therefore better for high-heat frying.

Q: Is Olive Oil as good for us as everyone suggests?
A: It’s a monosaturated fatty acid & therefore doesn’t have the cholesterol raising effect of unsaturated fats, such as butter & it does help protect against cell damage that in turn can lead to cancer. One reason why Southern Europeans, who enjoy a diet rich in olive oil, have lower rates of cancer & heart conditions. However it is still a fat & therefore shouldn’t be consumed in overly high quantities.

Q: What about cooking with Olive Oil?
A: There’s no point in using Extra Virgin as it’s expensive & the flavour doesn’t actually come through, particularly at higher temperatures. The ‘Smoke Point’ is when fat begins to emit smoke, acrid odours & starts to make the food taste nasty. Olive oil has a low SP of 375F, whereas corn oil has an SP of 450F (& is generally cheaper). Butter’s SP is 350F, so only use butter & Olive Oil for lower heat cooking & Extra Virgin Olive Oil as a flavouring in dressings, on salads, with pasta etc, where it’s all about the taste of the oil at room temperature.


OLIVE OIL – The Facts

It takes 5 kilos of olives to squeeze out 1 litre of olive oil & each tree can yield 3-4 litres of oil.

Harvest is normally Sept – Dec, but can go on till Feb, depending on which country.

Generally the deeper the colour, the more intense the olive flavour.

When chilled it thickens & goes cloudy, but reverts to its normal colour when it comes back to room temperature.

Homer described Olive Oil in the Odyssey as ‘liquid gold’ & it was so highly regarded that athletes at the Ancient Olympic Games were given it as prizes rather than medals.

Oleocanthal is found in olives & can reduce inflammation. In fact Roman Gladiators used olive oil to treat their wounds.

Hercules wore a wreath of olives on his head to protect himself, presumably under his helmet during battle!

Olive trees as old as 600 years can still bear fruit.

Black olives are merely the ripened versions of the green ones, but both are far too bitter to eat from the tree. To become edible they need to be soaked in brine, which is changed daily for 40 days.



Marsh Samphire a la Barden
Serves 4

Ingredients:
225g/8oz fresh Marsh Samphire
a knob of butter (unsalted ideally)
freshly ground black pepper

Preparation:
1. Wash the Samphire thoroughly, throw away the thicker stalks with their woody centres & keep the fleshy leaves (which look like spiky tips).
2. Boil a pan of unsalted water & when at a gentle boil, pop in the Samphire for a couple of minutes. Taste a stalk, which should be crunchy to the bite.
3. Drain & serve with a knob of butter, or a splash of vinegar & season with black pepper.


Grilled mackerel with cherry tomatoes a la Naughty Nige.

Ingredients
1 mackerel per person, or 1 between 2 if it’s a whopper.
salt & freshly ground black pepper
A squidge of fresh lemon juice
A branch of cherry tomatoes on the vine.

Method
1. Preheat the grill to high.
2. Place the mackerel onto the grill tray, with the tomatoes on the vine alongside, & season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Place under the grill and cook for 3-4 minutes per side, depending on the size of the fish, until the mackerel is cooked through. Have a peep when you flip it over & make sure the vine’s not on fire!
4. Add a squeeze of lemon & serve with the grilled tomatoes still on the vine, new potatoes & your favourite veg. I think samphire works really well in the summer months.


Lemon, chilli and white radish salad by Nick Nairn from Ready Steady Cook

Serves 2

Preparation time less than 30 mins

Cooking time no cooking required Ingredients 150g/5½oz mooli (white radish), peeled and finely sliced 1 lemon, juice only 1 tbsp sesame oil pinch dried chilli flakes ½ tsp sesame seeds Method 1. Place all the ingredients into a bowl and mix well. 2. To serve, place the salad onto a serving plate.

Radish, cucumber, mint, coriander and mooli salad
by Neneh Cherry and Andi Oliver from Neneh & Andi: Dish It Up

Serves 4-6
Preparation time less than 30 mins

Cooking time no cooking required Ingredients 8-10 radishes, finely sliced 1 large cucumber, finely sliced 1 mooli, same size as cucumber, finely sliced 1 small green papaya, peeled and chopped 1 carrot, sliced 1 apple, chopped 2-3 spring onions, sliced small handful fresh mint leaves small handful coriander leaves

For the dressing olive oil, to taste 1 lime, juice only Method 1. Combine the ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly. 2. Drizzle with olive oil and add lime juice to serve.


RAZOR CLAMS A LA NIGEL

The key here is to cook everything quickly at a high heat. If over done the clams lose their juiciness & became hard & chewy. If you’re worried, experiment with one first.

Ingredients

Razor Clams – as many as you can eat – 6 each is a good steer
Extra Virgin Olive Oil – a good slug
Lemon – nice juicy organic one, cut into ¼’s
Black Pepper – a healthy grind
Flat leaf parsley x 1 tbsp – well chopped (not the end of the culinary world if you don’t have this, or you can use the curly stuff).

Method

1. Wash the clams in cold running water, to make sure they’re free of sand.
2. Heat a griddle, or chunky frying pan until hot. Add a drizzle of olive oil & put on the clams, hinge side down. Don’t pile them up, only one layer at a time, so you may have to do more than one pan full. You can grill them as well, but put them on the bottom of the grill pan, don’t use a wire.
3. The clams will pop open quite quickly, & when they do drizzle over a little more oil & a grind of pepper. Then flip them over, with the flesh side down. Cook for a further 1 min, max.
4. Put onto a warm serving plate, pour over the juices from the pan & a little more oil if necessary. Sprinkle over the parsley & serve with the lemon for the diners to squeeze as they wish. Cut the small muscles, which hold the clams to their shells, which is easily done & dig in. Let the feeding frenzy commence.

Wash down well with a glass of cider, a summer ale, or even a dry Fino sherry.


DRESSED CRABS

Nigel told us all we needed to know about dressed crabs, for a super recipe
click here


SPICY CRAB CLAWS by Stefan Pflaumer &Chris Moskal, of Back to Basics Restaurant, Foley St, London W1

Serves 2

1 x 500g pre-cooked crab claws, cracked open, but with meat inside
1 x shallot peeled & chopped
1 x clove garlic, peeled & chopped
1 x small bunch fresh thyme
1 x tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
6 x tbsp fish stock
3 x tbsp tomato sauce, a mixture of passata (sieved chopped toms) with a squidge of tomato puree
3 x knobs butter
1 x tbsp cooking, or olive oil

In a medium sized frying heat a knob of butter & the cooking oil, over a medium heat. Add the shallots, garlic & chilli. For a couple of minutes, before adding the crab & thyme. Heat through for a further 2 min, before spooning over the fish stock & tomato sauce. Drop the heat slightly & reduce the mixture for 5 min, adding the remaining two knobs of butter. Stir in the chopped parsley at the last minute. Serve with chunky bread


What should we look out for when buying crab?
Buy them as fresh as possible, refrigerate & eat them within a day of purchase. A crab should always feel heavy when shaken lightly, but there should be no sound of water inside. They should give off a fresh enticing whiff. Male or cock crabs are larger, with bigger claws & contain more white meat. They have 5 sets of legs (so that’s 10 legs then!) with the front pair having the pincers at the end of them. They also have a titchy tail which they modestly tuck away under their shell. Crab roe/eggs are also v tasty.

What about the best way to cook them?
Either buy them pre cooked, or dressed, when all the meat is turned out, the dead men’s fingers (grey feathery gills) are removed, as they’re very nasty to taste & the stomach & mouth are lost. The claws are gently cracked open with a hammer & the white meat removed, before prettily rearranging along with the brown meat, back in the shell. However to avoid all that hassle I suggest buying am already dressed crab, making sure it’s as fresh as possible. To cook a whole fresh crab, place in a large pan of cold salted water, with a squidge of lemon juice & slowly bring to the boil, then keep the temperature up for 15 min.

View pictures of these dishes.


BROAD BEANS.

Ingredients
85g/3oz podded broad beans, cooked, skins removed
¼ red onion, peeled and chopped
1 tbsp chives, chopped
1 tbsp olive oil
½ lemon, juice only
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. To make the salad, mix the broad beans, red onion and chives in a bowl.
2. Drizzle over the olive oil and lemon juice and then add the salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Toss together and then transfer to a serving plate.


Giorgio Locatelli stands in for Nigel on the Thursday food slot, he told us how to make the perfect tomato sauce for pasta..

I large tin of tomatoes
1 large onion
4 black olives

Thinly chop the onions and sweat together in a pan along with the 4 black olives.
Once the onions are cooked add the tin of tomatoes.
Bring to the boil then simmer for 45 minutes
Add 2 pinches of salt
And 1 pinch of sugar
Then pour through a sieve

and serve with fresh pasta



Caluiflower

Baked Cauliflower Cheese

Ingredients
100ml/3½fl oz double cream
100g/3½ Caerphilly cheese, grated
50ml/2fl oz white wine
1 cauliflower, broken into florets, blanched for three minutes in boiling water
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6.
2. Heat the cream, cheese and wine in a frying pan over a medium heat, and cook until cheese has melted completely. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
3. Place the cauliflower in an ovenproof dish and pour the cheese sauce over. Place in the oven and bake for eight minutes, or until golden brown and bubbling.
4. Serve in the dish.


Tongue

Firstly don’t be put off by its very obvious tongue appearance, as you’ll need to give it a good scrubbing before soaking for 2-3 hrs if fresh, or overnight if salted. Drain, place in cold water (salt only if fresh) and bring slowly to the boil. Skim, then add peppercorns, bay leaves and root veg and celery, whole or very roughly cut. Simmer gently for 2-3 hours, until tender. Remove the skin carefully, it should peel away effortlessly. An indication of readiness is that the small bones at the root of the tongue can be easily removed.

What was a very tough muscle, will now slice readily and can be served with your favourite spud and vegetable combinations. Nige would recommend mash, whole carrots and French beans. A white onion sauce is an option and you can make a parsley, lemon and caper sauce with slices of cured tongue, to cut through the richness.


For the sauce

50g/2oz butter
1½ tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley
50g/2oz plain flour
2 free-range egg yolks
90ml/3fl oz double cream
2 tbsp small capers
1 lemon, juice only
salt

Method
1. Melt the butter in a saucepan over a low heat & add the parsley. Let it stew, not fry, for 10 minutes.
2. Stir in the flour & gradually whisk in 600ml/1 pint of the cooking liquor from the tongue, skimming off any fat before adding to the flour.
3. Bring up to the boil, stirring constantly, then bring the heat right down & let it simmer for 15-20 minutes.
4. In a clean bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the cream, then whisk in a little of the hot sauce.
5. Stir this back into the sauce, & keep stirring without letting it boil until the sauce has thickened slightly.
6. Finally add the capers, lemon juice & salt, then taste & adjust seasoning.


Seaweed

Laver Bread

4 ozs (100g) prepared laver bread
1 oz (25g) medium/fine oatmeal
1 egg
a little plain flour
bacon fat or butter to fry

Beat the egg, mix with the laver bread and oatmeal. Form into about 6-10 balls, coat them in the flour and flatten into little cakes. Fry in the fat until golden brown, turn over once and serve with bacon and eggs.

Trout

Here are Nigel's trout treats...

Trout fillets with lime and caper sauce

Serves 4

Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time less than 10 mins

Ingredients
8 trout fillets
125g/4oz unsalted butter
2 tbsp capers in brine, drained and washed
2 tbsp chopped fresh chervil or dill
1-2 tbsp lime juice salt and pepper

Method
1. Wash and dry the trout fillets and season lightly. Melt 25g/1oz of the butter in a large frying pan and as soon as it starts to foam, add the fillets, skin side down. Fry gently for 3 minutes, carefully flip over and cook for a further 1 minute.

2. Using a fish slice, transfer the trout to heated plates and keep warm in a low oven.

3. Add the remaining butter to the pan with the capers and dill and fry until golden brown. Add lime juice to taste and a little salt and pepper. Spoon over the trout and serve.

4. Using a small pair of tweezers pull out any small bones that may still remain in the trout.

Potted sea trout with dill
Serves 6

Preparation time over 2 hours
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients
250g/9oz butter
1 bunch of dill
2 lemons
2 tsp green peppercorns in brine
640g/1lb5½oz sea trout fillets
salt and pepper

Method
1. Grate the zest of the lemons then peel them with a knife and segment them, so you are left with only the flesh (no pips).
2. Finely chop the dill.
3. Cut the trout into 2.5cm/1in cubes roughly.
4. Melt the butter in a pan and gently stew the trout until the cubes are nearly cooked then add the lemon zest, segments, dill and peppercorns. Season with salt and pepper. Spoon into ramekin dishes and chill for at least 6 hours.
5. To serve, remove from the ramekin and garnish with a spoon of crème fraîche and toast.

Trout Orleans

Trout served with bananas seems like an unlikely combination but the flavours and textures work really well together. Serve with a rich lemony sauce, this is quite a special meal.

Ingredients
2 eggs
5 tbsp clarified butter
plain flour, to coat
2 sea trout fillets, skin on
55g/2oz fresh breadcrumbs
2 bananas
2 lemons, 1 juiced, 1 thinly sliced
55g/2oz butter
2 egg yolks
2 tomatoes, thinly sliced
salt and white pepper

Method
1. Preheat the grill to warm. In a shallow dish, whisk the eggs with 2 tbsp of the clarified butter.
2. Put a good handful of flour on a plate and season lightly with white pepper and salt.
3. Take the sea trout fillets and coat them with the seasoned flour, then dip them in the egg mixture and finally toss them in breadcrumbs until they are completely covered.
4. Heat a frying pan until very hot then add 2 tbsp of the clarified butter. Place the breaded fillets in the pan, skin side up for 2 minutes. Turn the fillets over and cook for a further 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Leave the pan on the heat, transfer fillets to a heat-resistant plate, skin side down and place under the grill for 5 minutes.
5. Halve the bananas, lengthways. Add the remaining clarified butter to the hot pan and place the banana halves in the pan for 5 minutes, turning occassionally to stop them burning.
6. In a heatproof bowl sitting over a pan of hot water, whisk the lemon juice, butter and egg yolks to a creamy sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
7. Take the fillets from under the grill and place tomato and lemon slices over the flesh side, alternately and overlapping so they cover most of the fish. Turn the grill up to full and cook the fillets for a further minute.
8. Serve the trout and bananas together on a plate, covered with sauce.


Roast Asparaguswith garlic and capers

Serves 4
Preparation time less than 30 mins

Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

This unusual side dish makes a wonderful accompaniment to any baked fish.

The Mediterranean ingredients;
garlic and capers;
add a real kick to the aspargus.

Ingredients
340g/12oz asparagus
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large garlic clove, sliced thinly
1 tbsp large capers in brine, rinsed and drained
½ orange, juice only
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. Bring a large pan of water to the boil. Add the asparagus and boil for 2 minutes until crisp, but beginning to go tender. Drain and refresh under cold water. Dry on kitchen paper. 2. Pour the oil into a shallow roasting tin and roll the asparagus in it to coat. Scatter over the garlic slivers and capers and roast for 8-10 minutes until the asparargus is tinged brown and cooked through - test by inserting a knife in a few spears. Sprinkle with orange juice, season and serve warm.

Tomatoes
Nige got fruity with tomatoes...

Stuffed beef tomatoes
by Simon Rimmer

Serves 2
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients
2 beef tomatoes, skinned
salt and freshly ground black pepper
200g/7oz breadcrumbs
200g/7oz flaked almonds, toasted
1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 tsp crushed garlic 125g/4oz butter, melted

To serve
mixed salad leaves and herbs vinaigrette dressing

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180C/355F/Gas 4. 2. Cut the top off the beef tomato and scoop out the seeds and the loose core with a teaspoon. Discard the seeds and core. Place the tomatoes onto a baking sheet, season well with salt and freshly ground black pepper, drizzle with olive oil and transfer to the oven to heat through for five minutes. 3. Meanwhile, combine the breadcrumbs, flaked almonds, parsley, garlic and melted butter in a bowl. 4. Remove the tomatoes from the oven and stuff each with equal amounts of the stuffing mixture. Drizzle with more oil and return to the oven to cook for five more minutes, or until the stuffing is heated through. 5. Serve each stuffed tomato on a plate with a bed of fresh herb salad with dressed with vinaigrette of your choice.

Wild Garlic Omelette in Cheese Sauce

Crack three free-range eggs into a bowl and whisk up with some cream and a touch of salt and pepper. Put some clarified butter into a hot omelette pan. Add the egg mixture and as it starts bubbling away it comes away from the side of the pan. Keep moving it round the pan so it doesn’t stick and until it becomes like the consistency of scrambled egg.

Put in the wild garlic and pop it under the grill. Now fold it over and turn it out onto a plate. You can now take a clean teacloth over the top and shape it into a fat cigar shape.

You can serve it with a nice cheese sauce. To do this: start with a butter and flour roux with milk slowly poured into the pan stirring continuously and then add some Somerset cheddar (other cheddars are available).

Before you pick any Wild Garlic, please remember that you need to get permission first. Whether it's from the person who owns the field or the warden who looks after the park, make sure it's OK for you to pick it before you do!

For more info visit the
BBC Wiltshire page on Wild Garlic.


Caesar salad with boiled egg by Gino D'Acampo
Serves 1
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time less than 10 mins

Ingredients
For the dressing
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tsp white wine vinegar
2 tsp chopped capers
1 free-range egg yolk
pinch salt
100ml/3½fl oz light olive oil
freshly ground black pepper
For the salad
85g/3oz rocket
2 tbsp olive oil
75g/2½oz bread, cut into 1cm/½in cubes
1 free-range egg
2 anchovy fillets, chopped, to serve
Method
1. For the dressing, place the Dijon mustard, vinegar, capers, egg yolk and salt into a bowl and whisk until combined.
2. Very gradually pour in the olive oil, whisking continuously until the mixture is combined and thickened. Season with freshly ground black pepper.
3. For the salad, place the rocket into a large bowl, pour over the dressing and stir to coat all the leaves.
4. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and fry the cubes of bread until golden-brown. Allow to cool slightly.
5. Meanwhile, place the egg into a pan of boiling water and boil for 6½ minutes. Remove from the pan and run under cold water. Peel the egg and cut it in half lengthways.
6. To serve, place the dressed rocket leaves onto a large serving dish. Sprinkle over the croutons and anchovies and top with the boiled egg halves.

Tapenade by James Martin from
Housecall
Serves 4 – Prep time less than 30 mins

Ingredients
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 lemon, juice only
3 tbsp capers, chopped
6 anchovy fillets, chopped
250g/9oz black olives, pitted
small bunch fresh parsley, chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

Method
1. To make a rough textured tapenade, simply mix all the ingredients together, adding enough olive oil to form a paste.
2. For a smoother texture, tip the garlic, lemon juice, capers and anchovy into a food processor and process for about 10 seconds. Add the olives and parsley and enough olive oil to make a paste.
3. Season to taste if necessary.


Pigeon
To roast pigeon then cover the breasts with rashers of streaky bacon & place a small shallot inside each bird. Roast at 230C (450F) Gas Mark 8 for 15-20 mins. Serve each bird on a croute of fried bread with the bacon, garnish with watercress & serve with gravy.

Or...

Pigeon breast with red wine gravy, roast leeks and wild mushrooms
by Oliver Rowe

Serves 4
Preparation time 30 mins to 1 hour
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients

For the marinade
4 garlic cloves, sliced
½tsp picked thyme leaves
6 black peppercorns, crushed
4 tbsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil
8 wood pigeon breasts

For the gravy
2 tbsp sugar
200ml red wine
2 sprigs thyme
6 juniper berries, lightly crushed

For the roasted leeks
12 baby leeks, trimmed
1 tbsp butter

For the wild mushrooms
handful wood ear mushrooms, sliced
15-20 wild brown closed-cup mushrooms, sliced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tbsp cold-pressed rapeseed oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Method
1. Pre-heat the oven to 220C/425F/Gas 7. 2. Combine the garlic, thyme, black peppercorns and rapeseed oil in a small bowl. Using a sharp knife, score the pigeon breasts' skin lightly and rub in the marinade - leave for at least 20 minutes. 3. To make the gravy, combine the sugar and a few drops of water in a smallish, very clean saucepan and place over a high heat to caramelise. Once the sugar melts and has gone a dark golden brown, pour in the red wine. Add the thyme and the juniper berries. Cook the sauce until it is reduced by two thirds - this will take about 12-15 minutes. Season to taste, strain and keep warm. 4. Place the leeks in a saucepan of boiling, salted water and blanch for 10 seconds. With a pair of tongs, remove the leeks from the boiling water and plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water. When they have cooled, drain the leeks well. 5. Place the leeks in an ovenproof saucepan or baking sheet with a knob of butter. Transfer to the hot oven and cook until tender - this should take about 10-15 minutes. 6. Heat a griddle pan until hot. Season the pigeon breasts with salt and freshly ground pepper and place on the hot griddle pan. Cook for just a few minutes on each side until cooked to your liking, then remove from the heat and set aside in a warm place for at least five minutes. 7. For the mushrooms, heat a small frying pan. When hot, add the rapeseed oil and fry the garlic until golden brown. Add the sliced mushrooms and cook until softened. Be careful - the wood-ear mushrooms can pop and splutter quite ferociously. 8. Serve the pigeon with the leeks, mushrooms, and a drizzle of the red wine gravy.

Rhubarb
Check out Nigel's recommended rhubarb recipes...

Rhubarb fool
by James Martin

Serves 1
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time less than 10 mins

Ingredients
2 stalks rhubarb, cut into chunks
2 tbsp hot water
1 orange, zest only, divided in two
1 tbsp caster sugar
100ml/3½fl oz double cream, whipped
1 tbsp icing sugar
1 ginger biscuit, crushed

Method
1. Place the rhubarb, water, half of the orange zest and caster sugar in a frying pan and cook for six minutes, until soft. 2. In a small bowl, combine the icing sugar and orange zest together with the whipped cream. 3. To serve, press the crushed biscuit into the base of a tall glass, spoon the rhubarb over, then top with the cream mixture.

Rhubarb crumble
by Brian Turner

Serves 1
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients

For the rhubarb
25g/1oz butter
25g/1oz caster sugar
1 lemon, zest and juice only
75g/2¾oz rhubarb, cut into batons

For the crumble
100g/3½oz plain flour
100g/3½oz caster sugar
100g/3½oz whole skinned almonds

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/Gas 6. 2. Stir the butter, sugar, lemon juice and zest over a low heat until the butter is melted. Tip in the rhubarb and cook for 3-5 minutes, until the rhubarb has softened a little. 3. Spoon the rhubarb into a small ovenware dish. 4. To make the crumble, whiz the flour, sugar and almonds together in a food processor. Sprinkle the crumble over the rhubarb and bake for five minutes, or until cooked through. Serve hot, straight from the dish.

Eggs

Here are Nigie B's Top Eggy Tips...
What’s the best way to store eggs & for how long?
Keep them in the carton in the fridge, ideally away from the freezer dept (too cold for them), but avoid strong smelling foods (onions) as they’re porous & absorb the aroma. A day out of the fridge is equivalent to one week in it, but eggs should be removed at least an hour before cooking, particularly if boiling as the shell may well crack, or they could curdle in baking. After a couple of weeks in the fridge use them for baking or in sauces only, by which time the white looks thin & watery & the yolk loses it’s bounce.
To test freshness, put into a bowl of water, if it sits horizontally on the bottom it’s v fresh, but with age it becomes more upright. Having done this it should be eaten pronto, as the porous shell will have taken some water on board.
What about other bird’s eggs?
Duck eggs are larger & richer than chicken’s & need 10 min boiling time. They make for rich cakes & puds, but don’t keep for as long as chicken eggs.
Goose or turkeyeggs are both larger & need about 7 min for a soft boil offering.
Quails’ eggs are beautifully speckled & tiny & only need a minute’s boiling. Nigie lived as a freegan once (living out of dustbins) & ate a chocolate omelette made from quails eggs (about 30 of them) marked 4 weeks after the eat by date. I smelt each one as I opened it & the omelette was delicious.
Ostrich eggs are obviously enormous & prehistoric looking, but I made a vast amount of v tasty scrambled egg from one, having used a large claw hammer to crack it open.
Why has the egg been such a culinary success?
It does numerous different jobs in the kitchen so well. Apart from all the different ways of cooking eggs…
They can thicken & bind sauces & custards when beaten first, stick together the different ingredients of a fish cake, or meat ball and prevent fish or croquettes disintegrating during frying.
Eggs help cakes rise & for extra light mixtures whisk the egg white first. Whisked egg whites are perfect for creating the lightest of meringues & soufflés.
The yolk is an emulsifying (binding) agent in mayonnaise, where ingredients which wouldn’t naturally mix (oil & water) can be, usually by dripping the different parts together, while mixing the liquid rapidly. So Mayonnaise is an uncooked combo of egg yolks, oil & vinegar & Hollandaise a cooked mixture of yolks, butter & vinegar.


Nettle Soup
by Keith Floyd from Floyd on Britain and Ireland

Serves: 4
Preparation Time: less than 30 mins
Cooking time: 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients
1 onion, chopped 8 large handfuls young nettle tops, chopped 25g/1oz butter 25g/1oz flour 1L/2pt good chicken stock salt and pepper cream (optional)

Method
1. Cook the onion and nettle tops in the butter until soft. 2. Add the flour and cook for about 3 minutes, stirring, then add the stock and season well. Bring to the boil, simmer for 5 minutes and then sieve. 3. Re-heat, adjust the seasoning and add a little cream if desired.
___________________________________
Rabbit with Tarragon Recipe – Serves 4
One Rabbit (retain liver – optional)
One tablespoon seasoned flour
75g (3oz) butter
150ml (quarter of a pint) white wine
One clove garlic, peeled and left whole (optional)
2 tablespoons fresh tarragon leaves or
2 teaspoons dried tarragon
Half a teaspoon Bovril (optional)

Cut the rabbit into pieces and dust with seasoned flour.
Melt the butter in a casserole and brown the rabbit quickly on all sides.
Reduce the heat and add the white wine and garlic if using.
Cover the casserole and simmer gently for about 45 mins or until tender.
When the rabbit is cooked, add the tarragon leaves (if using dried, soak them first for 30 mins in water and drain).
Stir well so that all the leaves are moist and cook for about another 5 mins. Take out the garlic.
The liver may be sautéed in butter, chopped and added to the sauce before serving.
For a fuller flavour add half a teaspoon Bovril.


Globe artichoke with Dijon mustard
Alan Bennett

Serves 1
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time 10 to 30 mins

Ingredients
1 medium globe artichoke
½ lemon for the vinaigrette
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 heaped tbsp Dijon mustard salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tbsp olive oil

Method
1. Cut off the stalk of the artichoke and remove any hard outer leaves. Rub with half a lemon.
2. Squeeze the remaining lemon juice into a pan of rapidly boiling, salted water. Plunge the artichoke into the water and boil uncovered for 25 to 30 minutes, until the outer leaves are easily detached. Drain well.
3. Turn the artichoke upside down and squeeze out the water.
4. While you are cooking the artichoke, make the vinaigrette. Combine the vinegar and mustard in a small lidded-jar and season to taste.
5. Pour in the olive oil, before screwing on the lid and shaking vigorously to make a thick dressing. Taste, adding more mustard, vinegar and seasoning if necessary. The dressing will keep in the fridge for several days
6. Remove the artichoke chokes carefully using a spoon, and serve straight away with the vinaigrette, before they discolour.

Marguerite Patten's Eggless Fruit Cake
You can increase the amounts of dried fruit, fat and sugar – see Variation.

Ingredients
½ pint/300 ml well-strained moderately strong tea or water
3 oz/85 g margarine or cooking fat – I often use butter these days
3 oz/85 g sugar – light brown or caster or granulated
3 oz/85 g dried fruit – all one kind or a mixture of fruits
10 oz/300 g self-raising flour or plain flour with 2 level teaspoons baking powder
pinch salt (optional)
1 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

Method
Line a 7 inch/18 cm round cake tin with baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 350ºF/180ºC/160 to 170º fan oven or Gas Mark 4.
Pour the tea into a saucepan, add the fat, sugar and dried fruit. Bring just to the boil, simmer until the fat and sugar have melted then boil briskly for two minutes. Allow to cool.
Sift the flour, or flour and baking powder, salt and bicarbonate of soda into a mixing bowl. Add the ingredients from the saucepan; stir well. Spoon into the prepared tin; bake for about 1¼ hours or until the cake is firm and golden brown. Cool for five minutes then turn out. The cake keeps well for one or two days or it can be frozen.
Variations: the fat and sugar can be increased to 4 oz/115 g and the dried fruit to
5 oz/150 g. This makes little difference to the baking time.

Vinegar Chocolate Cake

Ingredients
3 oz/85 g butter or margarine
3 oz/85 g caster sugar
few drops vanilla extract
5 oz/150 g self-raising flour with ¼ level teaspoon baking powder or plain flour with
1¾ level teaspoons baking powder
good 1 oz/30 g cocoa powder
¼ pint/150 ml milk or water
1 tablespoon vinegar – I use malt vinegar
½ level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda

Method
Line a 7 inch/18 cm round cake tin with baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 180ºC/350ºF/160 to 170ºC fan oven or Gas Mark 4.
Cream the butter or margarine with the sugar and vanilla in a mixing bowl until soft and light. Sift the flour, baking powder and cocoa together. Pour the milk into a good-sized basin, add the vinegar and bicarbonate of soda. The mixture will froth and rise in the basin.
Gradually beat the flour and liquid mixtures into the creamed ingredients; when smooth, spoon into the tin. Bake for approximately 1 hour or until firm to the touch. Cool for five minutes then turn out. This cake should be eaten when fresh. It can be frozen.
Variations: omit the cocoa and use 6 oz/175 g flour. Do not add baking powder to self-raising flour, add just 1½ level teaspoons to plain flour.
3 oz/85 g dried fruit can be added to this or the chocolate version.



Marguerite's Eggless ‘Sponge’
This is not as light as a true sponge but it is a pleasant mixture that is very adaptable.

Ingredients
3 oz/85 g butter or margarine
3 to 4 oz/85 to 115 g caster sugar
1 level tablespoon golden syrup
6 oz/175 g self-raising flour with ½ level teaspoon baking powder or plain flour with 2 level
teaspoons baking powder
¼ pint/150 ml milk or milk and water or water
Filling and topping
jam and icing or caster sugar

Method
Grease and flour two 6 to 7 inx/15 to 18 cm sandwich tins. Preheat the oven to 375ºF/190ºC/170 to 180ºC fan oven or Gas Mark 5.
Cream the butter or margarine, sugar and syrup until soft and light.
Sift the flour and baking powder. Gradually beat the flour and the milk, or milk and water, into the creamed ingredients; spoon into the two tins. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until firm to the touch. Cool for 5 minutes then turn out.
When cold sandwich together with jam then top with sifted icing sugar or caster sugar.
Variations: Chocolate ‘Sponge’: omit about ¾ oz/20 g flour and use the same amount of cocoa powder.
Coffee ‘Sponge’: use half milk and half liquid coffee.
‘Sponge’ Pudding: the plain or flavoured versions can be steamed for approximately 55 to 60 minutes.
Queen Cakes: use the basic recipes but allow only 6 tablespoons of liquid. Grease and flour small patty tins, Preheat the oven to 400ºF/200ºC/180 to 190ºC fan oven or Gas
Mark 6. Bake for approximately 10 minutes.

Ginger Parkin

Ingredients
4 oz/115 g self-raising flour with ½ level teaspoon baking powder or plain flour with
2¼ level teaspoons baking powder
1 level teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1 teaspoon ground ginger, or to taste
2 oz/50 g butter or margarine
2 oz/50 g light brown sugar
3 oz/85 g rolled oats
2 level tablespoons golden syrup or black treacle
5 tablespoons milk or water

Method
Line an oblong tin 7x4 inches/18x10 cm with baking parchment. Preheat the oven to 350ºF/180ºC/160 to 170ºC fan oven or Gas Mark 4.
Sift the flour, baking powder, ginger and bicarbonate of soda into a mixing bowl. Rub in the butter or margarine, add the remaining ingredients and stir briskly. Spoon into the tin; bake for approximately 50 minutes or until firm. Cool in the tin for 10 minutes then turn out.
Parkin should be stored away from other cakes. It can be frozen.

NOTE: always fill spoons carefully; this is particularly important in the case of bicarbonate of soda.
From Marguerite Patten




Pancakes and Batter Mixtures Without Eggs

As mentioned on the Chris Evans programme, you make a good pancake batter using beer (I would choose a very light type) for mixing the flour. This gives the lightness usually associated with using eggs.

If you do not wish to use beer there are several alternatives.

Simply mix the flour with milk or if allergic to milk, with water. I would use self-raising flour or add ¼ teaspoon baking powder to each 2 oz/50 g plain flour.

Wholemeal flour gives a better colour to the batter or you could use half wholemeal and half ordinary white flour.

People who are allergic to ordinary flour should use gluten-free flour. A good texture is given by using 1 oz/25 g cornflour to each 3 oz/85 g ordinary flour.

For a special flavour mix the flour with coconut milk or half coconut milk and half water.

Any of these mixtures can be used to make a Toad in the Hole.

Scallops

Here's Nigel's recommended recipe for baked scallops, (it's by Phil Vickery from
Ready Steady Cook).

Serves 1
Preparation time less than 30 mins
Cooking time less than 10 mins

Ingredients
2 scallops, cleaned, left in their shells
25g/1oz butter, melted
½ red chilli, chopped
50g/1¾oz breadcrumbs salt and freshly ground black pepper handful watercress

Method

1. Preheat the grill to its highest setting. 2. Place the scallops onto a baking sheet, top with the melted butter, chilli and breadcrumbs and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. 3. Place the tray under the grill and cook for 3-4 minutes, or until golden-brown. 4. To serve, place the scallops onto a plate in their shells with the watercress placed alongside.
_________________________________
Braised oxtail with mustard and mash

This is not a liquid stew, but one where the lumps of meat and bone are coated in a sticky, glossy gravy.

Ingredients
1 large oxtail, cut into joints
a little flour, for dusting
1 tsp ground chilli
1 heaped tsp dry mustard powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
thick slice butter
a little oil, fat or dripping
2 large onions, roughly chopped
2 large winter carrots, roughly chopped
2 stalks celery, roughly chopped
4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
5 large mushrooms, cut into 6 or 8 pieces
2 tsp tomato purée
4 bay leaves
a few bushy sprigs thyme
750ml/1¼ pints of gutsy red wine, such as Rioja
1 tbsp grain mustard
1 tbsp smooth Dijon mustard
a little parsley
creamy mashed potato, to serve

Method
Set the oven at 150C/300F/Gas 2. Put the oxtail in a plastic or zip-lock bag with the flour, ground chilli, dry mustard powder and a good grinding of black pepper. Seal it and shake it gently until the oxtail is covered.
Warm the butter and a little oil, fat or dripping in a heavy-based casserole. Lower in the pieces of oxtail and let them colour on each side, turning them as they take on a nice, tasty bronze colour. Whilst the meat is browning, peel the onions and carrots and roughly chop them, then cut the celery into similar-sized pieces. Lift out the meat and set aside, then put the vegetables in the pot and let them colour lightly. Peel the garlic, slice it thinly, then add it to the vegetables, along with the mushrooms, each cut into six or eight pieces. Squeeze in the tomato purée. Continue cooking until the mushrooms have softened and lost some of their bulk.
Return the oxtail and any escaped juices to the pan, tuck in the bay and thyme, then pour in the red wine. Bring briefly to the boil, season lightly with salt and cover with a tight lid. Transfer the dish to the oven. You can now leave the whole thing alone for a good two hours. I'm not sure you even need to give it a stir, though I inevitably do half way through cooking. After an hour, check the meat for tenderness. I don't think it should be actually falling off the bones but it certainly should come away from the bone easily when tugged. Depending on the oxtail, it could take as long as two or three hours in total. Set the oxtail aside to cool, then refrigerate, preferably overnight.
The next day, scrape off the fat that has set on the surface, then reheat the casserole slowly on the hot plate, stirring from time to time. Stir in the mustards. Once they are in, you should cook the stew for no longer than fifteen minutes, otherwise it will lose its edge. Stir in the parsley and serve with creamy mash.

-----------------------------------------------------------
Lindsey Bareham – Stargazey Fish Pie

750g 'old ' potatoes such as King Edward
Salt and pepper
100g butter, plus extra knob
Approx. 100ml milk
3 eggs
1 onion
4 rashers of smoked streaky bacon
1 tsp chopped thyme
3 plump fresh herrings, filleted , but keep heads and tails
2 tbsp vegetable oil
500g firm white fish fillet such as huss, gurnard, haddock, or cod
150g flour, plus extra for dusting

Pre-heat the oven to 400oF/ 200oC/ gas mark 6. Peel and rinse the potatoes and cut them into chunks. Cook in boiling salted water until tender.
Drain and mash with a knob of butter and sufficient milk to make a firm mash.
Boil 2 of the eggs for 10 minutes either in with the potatoes or in a separate, small pan. Crack all over and peel.
Peel, halve and finely chop the onion. Fry in 25g butter for about 8 minutes until soft and lightly browned .
Chop the bacon and add to the pan, together with the thyme. Cook until the bacon is fat and crisp. Scoop into a mixing bowl, leaving as much fat behind as possible.
If you are lucky enough to have roes with your herrings, fry them whole for a couple of minutes a side then mix them with mashed potato.
Tip the mash into a mixing bowl and add the parsley. Wash out the frying pan and add the vegetable oil.
Chop the herring fillets into bite-size chunks (don't worry about the whiskery bones) and fry briefly in hot oil on both sides. Transfer to the mixing bowl.
Now dice the white fish and fry in the same way. Chop the eggs and mix everything together. Transfer to a shallow dish.
Cut the remaining butter into chunks and rub it into the flour. Add 2-3 tablespoons of water, draw together with a knife or fork and form into a ball.
Dust a work surface with flour and roll the pastry to make a lid for a pie. If liked, make slits and post the herring heads and tails, using leftover pastry to make little collars. Whisk the remaining egg and use it to paint the pastry.
Bake for about 25 minutes until the pastry is golden.

This recipe is from Lindsey Bareham’s book The Fish Store (Penguin) and is also on the Woman’s Hour site

To wash down the Stargazey Pie, we’re staying in Cornwall for the Drivetime Drop, which comes from the St. Austell brewery, established in 1851. Tribute is a light brown ale, with an attractive malty taste & a lingering nutty finish. 5% a.b.v £1.55 for 500ml from Asda, Sainsbury’s & Londis.
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Nicole Rolland’s Piggy Porridge

Being half Chinese and growing up in Hong Kong, congee or rice porridge was just an every day winter breakfast made from leftover rice boiled up with lots of water, its blandness offset with a myriad of accompaniments, including salted pork and always topped with a sprinkling of chopped spring onion. I wanted to make something more substantial, and having an AGA made that easy: I took a heavy enameled cast iron pot bunged in a handful of oats and whatever other grains I had to hand, buried a piece of smoked gammon in it, topped it up with water, placed the lid on and slid it into the slow oven of the AGA before going to bed. The next morning I carefully took the pot out of the oven, lifted the lid to be surrounded by the fragrant savoury fug of what looked very promising. I gave the whole thing a gentle stir to break up the pork which was tenderly shredding to distribute it and the by now melted fat (essential for flavour and sustenance!) evenly through the porridge.

It’s best to make this in a large quantity. I let it cool slightly and then transfer it into a large lidded plastic box. It keeps for up to 5 days in the fridge, just warm up individual portions in the microwave for breakfast. You could freeze the portions as well.
I use a 3 lt lidded LeCreuset pot. I also like to serve it with a spring onion condiment which is really quick to put together, and really makes the piggy porridge even better. Don’t worry if you don’t have an AGA, just set your oven really low to about 120C. This isn’t really so much as a recipe but a guideline. Just use anything you have to hand and please don’t fret about the vague quantities. Experimenting with a dish makes it your own, and only you will know what consistency, degree of savouriness is pleasing to you. I feel really excited at the thought of others discovering the sustaining powers of piggy porridge.

Place 3 large handfuls of any of the following in your pot: Medium pin head oats or jumbo rolled oats, barley, quinoa, brown rice, red lentils, pudding rice/risotto rice
I used pinhead oats, barley & quinoa, peel and chop a medium onion roughly, add to the pot, add 1kg piece of smoked pork hock, gammon or bacon joint. Pour over boiled water from the kettle until everything is covered. Place the lid on the pot and before you go to bed, place the pot in the slow oven of your AGA or into your conventional oven pre heated to 120C. The next morning if you are getting up early ie before 8am, remove the piggy porridge from the oven, if you are having a lie in just use cold water instead of boiled to cover before placing in the oven. Don’t worry if the porridge has turned golden, you have slightly caramelized your piggy porridge which adds an extra dimension to the taste.
Stir through gently with a large fork to break up the pork so it is evenly distributed throughout the porridge, remove any bones if using hock. If it’s too gluggy and thick, add boiled water until the consistency is pleasing to you.

Spring onion condiment:
Take a sprig of spring onion, wash and remove the roots. Slice finely and place in a small bowl or soy sauce saucer. Add a tablespoon of soy sauce, a pinch of sugar, a teaspoon of Chinese black vinegar or Balsamic vinegar and a couple of drops of sesame oil. Add a teaspoon of toasted sesame seeds to it and eat immediately spooned over the piggy porridge as a condiment. Serves 2

To reheat a portion of Piggy Porridge:
Spoon a portion into a microwaveable bowl, add a good dash of hot water from the kettle. Microwave on High for 1 ½ - 2 minutes. Stir through well before eating. Fine on its own, but even better with the spring onion condiment. If you want to you could drizzle flax seed oil over it to add even more nutrients.

The Drivetime Drop, Sake is an ancient brew, dating from the 3rd Century, from Japan & parts of China, and often described as a fermented rice wine, but actually is brewed from rice, water & yeast, with a resulting strength of 14-18% abv. Serve hot in the winter & refreshingly chilled in summer. This is a clear, slightly viscous warming liquid, served in small porcelain or wooden cups, poured from porcelain pots smells like rice glue & prickles on the tip of the Barden tongue & has a sour pear finish, which the Barden stomach loves. You can never serve yourself, & can’t refuse a drink if offered one by your host, if they’re still supping!

Sake Hakutsuru 14% 70 cl £8.60 Oddbins

_______________________________________
Haggis
Nigel gave us a potted history of Scotland's national dish. Click
here for stockists.

The Drivetime Drop was Glenrothes Select Reserve. It’s a single malt, distilled in the Speyside town of Rothes, poured from a bottle based on the original sample bottles of whisky, when drawn from the cask. Each vintage has its own character and this one is spicy with a Dundee marmalade hit, leading to a smooth honeyed finish. From £27 a bottle (43% a.b.v) from the
Whisky Exchange, Royal Mile Whiskies, Vintage House, Selfridges & Harrods.

And here's the recipe...

This is an authentic recipe from Scotland and the ingredients and methods of cooking may be unfamiliar but we hope you enjoy the results.

Ingredients
1 sheep's stomach or ox secum, cleaned and thoroughly, scalded, turned inside out and soaked overnight in cold salted water
heart and lungs of one lamb
450g/1lb beef or lamb trimmings, fat and lean
2 onions, finely chopped
225g/8oz oatmeal
1 tbsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp ground dried coriander
1 tsp mace
1 tsp nutmeg
water, enough to cook the haggis
stock from lungs and trimmings

Method
1. Wash the lungs, heart and liver (if using). Place in large pan of cold water with the meat trimmings and bring to the boil. Cook for about 2 hours.
2. When cooked, strain off the stock and set the stock aside.
3. Mince the lungs, heart and trimmings.
4. Put the minced mixture in a bowl and add the finely chopped onions, oatmeal and seasoning. Mix well and add enough stock to moisten the mixture. It should have a soft crumbly consistency.
5. Spoon the mixture into the sheep's stomach, so it's just over half full. Sew up the stomach with strong thread and prick a couple of times so it doesn't explode while cooking.
6. Put the haggis in a pan of boiling water (enough to cover it) and cook for 3 hours without a lid. Keep adding more water to keep it covered.
7. To serve, cut open the haggis and spoon out the filling. Serve with neeps (mashed swede or turnip) and tatties (mashed potatoes).

And for the clapshot with spinach...

Ingredients
potatoes
swede or turnip
chives
stovie dripping, or meat juices and gravy
spinach


Method
1. Cook equal quantities of potato and turnip and mash well together.
2. Add the chives and some stovie dripping and gravy, season to taste.
3. Serve on a bed of washed and cooked spinach (cooked with no extra water).


_______________________________________
Whiting...
Nigel recommends whiting as a great substitute for cod, which is dangerously low on stocks. His grilling method, as well as the potato baji recipe are
here.

The DriveTime Drop is: Jacobsen Saaz Blonde, named after JC Jacobsen, Carlsberg's Danish founder and the Blonde is still brewed in Copenhagen, using the Czech Saar hop as it's base, to create the blonde bonnet and a bitingly sharp, refreshing mouthful, followed by a gently bitter finish. Actually I think it works well with the Whiting and is another example of matching beer with grub. Particularly as it's served in a 75 cl bottle and packs a flavour delivering 7.1% of alcohol.

_______________________________________
And the Beet Goes On...
Nigel's recipe for borscht, or beetroot soup, can be found in Silvena Rowe's book, ‘Feasts – food from Central & Eastern Europe’ (Mitchell Beazley). And here it is...

1 x 400g Pork Belly
15g Butter
3 carrots, peeled and grated
Salt and pepper
1 Medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
4 Medium beetroots, peeled and chooped
205g White cabbage, finely shredded
1 Sour green apple, peeled and grated
1 Large potato, peeled and grated
200ml Sour Cream (optional)

Place the pork belly in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for an hour until the pork is cooked, skimming as necessary. Remove the pork and chop finely, then place back in the sauvepan with the cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, in a large frying pan, melt about a third of the butter and saute the carrots, seasoning with salt and pepper and stirring all the time. When the carrots have become translucent, add the onion and continue cooking for another five minutes. Remove the cooked carrot and onion to a large bowl. Add the remainin butter to the frying pan, along with the grated beetroot. Cook for 10 minutes, until the beetroots release their juices and their colour changes to deep purple.

Place the cooked carrots, onions and beetroot int he saucepan with the chopped pork and finally add the cabbage, apple and potato. Season to taste and add more water if needed, depending ont he consistency you want. Bring to the boil, and almost immediately reduce to a simmer. Continue simmering on a very low heat for at least two hours, uncovered, stirring occasionally. I like to simmer my borscht for at least 3-4 hours on the lowest heat. The colour should be a deep crimson! Just before serving, add a dollop of sour cream if desired.

_______________________________________
The Christmas Bird
Nigel recommends this recipe for
roast goose with prune and chestnut stuffing as the best.
_______________________________________
The Pudding
Marguerite Patten's fabulous and easy
microwave Christmas pudding!
_______________________________________
The Trimmings
Marcus Wareing's bread sauce
Holly Jones' potates roasted in goose fat
Mike Robinson's braised red cabbage with apple and sherry vinegar
Lesley Waters' bacon buttered Brussels sprouts
Lawrence Keogh’s quicker gravy
______________________________________
The Starters
Nigel cracked the Christmas starter with his seafood selection: dressed crab and egg on toast, Prince Charles’ Cornish oysters and good smoked salmon do the trick. The key is to keep it light, and to take your time.
______________________________________
The Goose
The Goose got the vote from the Drivetime team, and the Drivetime Drop was Red Heart from South Australia, produced so it’s naturally high in anti-oxidants, which primarily come from the grape skins, by keeping the juice in contact with them for as long as possible and are great for combating coronary problems.

If you are interested in giving a feel good gift, more details can be found by clicking
here

Goose Fat is the must-have ingredient this Christmas according to domestic Goddess Nigella Lawson. For a good recipe try this
------------------------------------------------------
Bread and Butter Pudding
It's the pudding with the name that doesn't do it justice! Here's the recipe:

A handful of sultanas soaked in ggrappa for anything from 1minute to 24 hours.
125g of caster suger and extra for the sultanas
Half a slightly stale loaf or a Pannetone
25g of soft unsalted butter
1 vanilla pod
500ml double cream
200ml full cream milk
3 eggs
2 egg yolks

Put the sultanas in a large ovenproof dish and put a few teaspoons of sugar in the middle.
Bake at 200 degrees for 15minutes until tender. Leave to cool. Slice bread.
Split vanilla pod open and place in pan with cream and milk. Bring almost to the boil, remove from the heat and leave to infuse.
In large bowl, whisk eggs, yolks and sugar. remove pod and pour cream over eggs, whisking til you have a custard. Cut bread slices in half and arrange in dish at an angle. Place sulatanas between slices.
Strain the custard over the bread to steep between the cracks. Leave to infuse for half an hour. Use all the custard.
Bake at 170 degrees for 30-40 minutes til custard just set. Serve with cream.

By H. Fearnley-Whittingstall

And the Chocolate Bread and Butter Pudding can be found in Delia Smith's BBC Winter Collection.

The Drivetime Drop was a grappa.
------------------------------------------------------
It's All Gravy

VEAL JUS (GRAVY) RECIPE – BY CHEF LAWRENCE KEOGH OF ROAST, BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON

Stage One

Ingredients:





  • 4kg chicken necks
  • 2 kg chopped veal bones
  • 1 split and chopped calves foot
  • 2 large onions peeled cut in half
  • 3 carrots
  • ½ head of celery
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 sprigs of thyme
  • ½ head of garlic cut in half
  • 3 peppercorns

    Method:

    You will need a large pot 5 litre capacity

    Put everything in the pot together and cover with cold water and bring to the boil and skim regularly
    Cook for approx 2 hours and pass through a chinois, which is a very fine conical sieve (or a colander will do)

    BASE VEAL JUS

    Stage Two

    Ingredients:

  • 1 shallot peeled and sliced thinly
  • ¼ med leek sliced thinly and washed
  • ½ stick celery sliced thinly
  • ½ carrot sliced thinly
  • ¼ bulb garlic cut in half
  • Bouquet Garni (thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns)
  • 1 roast chicken carcass
  • ¼ bottle red wine
  • Reduced veal stock from the night before (see stage 1)
  • ¼ litre of tomato juice

Method:

1. On a low heat fry the mirepoix (vegetable mixture) until the veg has caramelized but not burnt.
2. Add the red wine and reduce.
3. When all the wine has evaporated add the veal stock and tomato juice.
4. Bring to the boil for 30mins, skimming all the time.
5. Add the chicken carcass, bouquet garni and simmer for 1hr.
6. Strain through a colander.
7. Bring to the boil and reduce to the required strength.
8. Finish by passing through muslin.

Season with salt and pepper.
----------------------------------------------------
The Perfect Roast
Don’t over baste, as you’ll be lowering the temperature of the oven, as you do so. Most red meat has sufficient fat to avoid basting & even for chicken & pork, only do it a couple of times.

Sear at a high heat (220 C, Gas 7) for 25 mins & then reduce for the remaining time (ie Pheasant, 30 min in total, beef 15 min per 500g).

For chicken it helps to pull away the skin from the meat at the breast bone, before cooking, to crisp the skin up & to stuff with herbs, such as basil & marjoram. Putting a couple of half lemons in the cavity also adds masses of flavour.

And this week's drivetime drop?
Innocent Fruit Smoothie, Blackcurrant, Raspberry & Apple – liquid goodness & tasty as well. The best way to get a large chunk of our daily fruit requirement happily down our necks, from a company who put the facts over with a sense of humour. £1.85 for 500ml. Widely available.
--------------------------------------------------------
Who ate all the...
The delight of the
Square Pie. And Duvel, this week's Drivetime drop is available from Sainsbury's, Morrisons, Tesco, Waitrose, Oddbins from £1.49 for 33cl bottle.
--------------------------------------------------------
Drinking Outside the Box
Our gastro-gnome, Nigel Barden lubricated the Drivetime larynx with a few bottles of unexpected wines...

Sandyford Sparkling 2004 12.5% abv - award winning English wine from Sandyford vineyard Gt Sampford in North West Essex, made in the same manner as Champagne, but using Bacchus & Reichensteiner grape varieties. Mike & Sue Lindsell are arable farmers, who branched out into turkeys & grapes, planting their first vines in ’99. Feel those bubbles explode in the mouth & think of England£14.95 Waitrose & Asda stock their wines & they can be bought at sandyfordvineyards.co.uk

Gruner Veltliner 2005 12.5% abv – a melon & white grape nose, beckon you in & once you’ve got your gnashers around it this is a rich spicy & yet gently fruity number from a country once derided for its wine, but which actually produces great whites. This is grown up stuff & one to kick start the dullest of dinner parties. Will cosy up contentedly with fish (sea bass would be fab), or shellfish. Oddbins £5.99

Dornfelder 2005, Kendermanns 12.5% abv – what a red wine from Germany? Surely not! Yes and it’s got a gently welcoming sweetness, followed by a more punchy slightly iodine finish, as it massages the throat. Drink pre grub, or with h’or douvres £4.49 Tesco & OnLine at Tesco.com

Fairtrade Argentine Bonarda Shiraz 2006 12% abv – a tough, thick skinned little monkey is the Bonarda and here it’s blended with the chunky Syrah of Southern France (or Shiraz as it’s called outside Europe), resulting in an exotic, Arabian Nights cardamom mouthful.
It’s a Fair Trade wine so the growers and producers are properly financially rewarded. Widely available at Co-op stores at £3.99

Notios 2005 Peloponnisos 13% abv – Greece is one of the oldest wine producing countries & this is a surprisingly subtle multi-layered red from the Peloponnese in the south, using the Agiorgitiko grape. A dark cherry whiff, heralds a spicy, back of the throat tickler. Quaff with roast chicken, or wild mushroom risotto. £7.19 Oddbins
--------------------------------------------------------
Partridge Recipe:
Partridge Mussalum with Ginger and Chilli
A brilliant example of classical Indian blended with the modern with a touch of fusion that has evolved over a few hundred years.

Ingredients for the Partridge
(well hung and dressed)
PARTRIDGE 4=6 WHOLE
CHICKEN LEG-MINCE 500gm
BROKEN CASHEW NUTS 1 HEAPED TABLESPOON
RAW PISTACHIOS 1 TABLESPOON
UNSKINNED ALMONDS 1 TABLESPOON
PEELED GINGER ONE INCH PIECE
GREEN CHILLI 2 MEDIUM SIZED
FRESH CORIANDER STALKS 2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED
GARLIC 3 CLOVES
SALT 1 ½ TEASPOON OR MORE IF
NEEDED
TURMERIC POWDER 1 TEASPOON
ALUMINIMUM FOIL 12” X12” SQ. FOR EACH
BUTTER 1 TABLESPOON

Method

  • Bone the partridges from the back completely with the skin on. This requires some practice but it has the best results. If, you have a good butcher ask him to do that for you. Don’t forget to pick the shots & bone splinters.
  • Reserve the bones for the sauce
  • Blend half the salt with the turmeric and sprinkle it on the meat of all the boned partridges
  • Put the chicken leg mince in a food processor and add the chilli, garlic, ginger and coriander and give it a few whirls until they are all finely minced up.
  • Add the nuts and mince further until they are chopped into small pieces but not finely.
  • Blend in the salt and mix well in a bowl. Check the seasoning and add more of you need to.
  • Open up the partridges skin side down and equally divide the mince on each one of them
  • Spread the mince with a spatula on each of them as best you can, covering as much of the exposed flesh as possible.
  • Now firstly fold in the edges of exposed skin, until the partridge looks like a neat rectangle and then roll the meat form one end to form a sausage.
  • Take each piece of foil (does not have to be a square OK, just use your own judgement on size and don’t make it too large as the more layers you have the longer the cooking time takes. Roll each partridge into a tight sausage and twist in the edges to form a large toffee.
  • Place these in a tray and roast in a hot oven approx. 180 ˚ C for 30 to 40 minutes.
  • Once done remove, let settle until down to room temperature and then refrigerate whilst your sauce gets ready.
  • At the time of roasting you also need to roast the bones in another tray. You can add some chicken or duck bones as well of you have any. If not don’t worry. However the bones may take longer and need to be well browned, so perhaps leave them in the oven and don’t remove them until needed.
Ingredients for the Sauce
  • PARTRIDGE BONES WELL BROWNED
  • LIGHT STOCK OR WATER 2-3LITRES
  • STAR ANISE 2-3 CRACKED OR BROKEN
Place the bones in a large casserole, add the broken star anise, pour over the stock or water and bring to the boil. Once on the boil bring to a simmer and reduce by half almost.
  • RED PLUMS 5
  • MEDIUM TOMATOES 3
  • CRUSHED DRY CHILLI 1 HEAPEDTEASPOON
  • FRESH PEELED GINGER 2 INCH PIECE (Add the skins
From both to the boiling stock)
  • SPRING ONION 1 SLENDER
  • SUGAR 1 TEASPOON
  • LIME JUICE ½ TEASPOON
  • CORNSTARCH 1 TABLESPOON
Method
  • Once the stock is ready, strain it into another casserole and bring to a slow boil.
  • Add the plums & the tomatoes coarsely cut, the ginger and blend in a liquidiser jug until almost smooth. Don’t need to skin the plums or the tomatoes the crushed skin gives a good appearance.
  • Add the red chilli and give it another whirl until the chilli become flecks rather than flakes and pour this into the stock
  • Boil for fifteen to twenty minutes and check
  • Add lime juice and sugar and check the seasoning.
  • If you are happy add the spring onions and bring down to a slow simmer
  • Blend the cornstarch in a little water to form a smooth thin paste
  • Begin to stir the sauce and gradually add in the cornstarch stirring all the time for a half minute or so.
  • Remove the partridges from the foil and immerse them in the sauce. Simmer for a few minutes so that they can absorb the flavour and cook through if needed as well as heat through.
  • Served with egg fried rice

    ---------------------------------------------------------
    CHEF LAWRENCE KEOGH’S “QUICKIE” GRAVY RECIPE:

    Ingredients:
  • Knob of butter
  • 1 onion v finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced or crushed
  • Sprig fresh thyme (or dried)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 beef stock cubes
  • 1 squirt tomato puree (2 tsp approx)
  • 1 pint water
  • 1 glass red wine
  • Juices from cooked joint, having poured off excess fat

    Method:

    1. Sweat the onions in the melted butter in frying pan over a medium heat until lightly golden brown & slightly caramelised.
    2. Add garlic, bay leaf & thyme.
    3. Cook until the garlic smells.
    4. Add tomato puree & cook for 1-2 mins.
    5. Sprinkle in the stock cubes, forming a burgundy coloured paste.
    6. Pour in juices from around the joint, add red wine & water.
    7. Bring to the boil & simmer gently for 30-40 mins until reduced by a quarter.
    8. Pass through a sieve, or leave chunky, as preferred.

    N.B. Vegetarians replace beef cubes with veg & obviously omit the juices from the joint.

    & here’s the longer version with reduced quantities, serves 6 or more…

    VEAL JUS (GRAVY) RECIPE – BY CHEF LAWRENCE KEOGH OF ROAST, BOROUGH MARKET, LONDON

    Stage One

    Ingredients:
  • 4kg chicken necks
  • 2 kg chopped veal bones
  • 1 split and chopped calves foot
  • 2 large onions peeled cut in half
  • 3 carrots
  • ½ head of celery
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 sprigs of thyme
  • ½ head of garlic cut in half
  • 3 peppercorns

Method:

You will need a large pot 5 litre capacity

Put everything in the pot together and cover with cold water and bring to the boil and skim regularly.
Cook for approx 2 hours(8hrs) and pass through a chinois, which is a very fine conical sieve (or a colander will do)

BASE VEAL JUS

Stage Two

Ingredients:
  • 1 shallot peeled and sliced thinly
  • ¼ med leek sliced thinly and washed
  • ½ stick celery sliced thinly
  • ½ carrot sliced thinly
  • ¼ bulb garlic cut in half
  • Bouquet Garni (thyme, bay leaf, peppercorns)
  • 1 roast chicken carcass
  • ¼ bottle red wine
  • Reduced veal stock from the night before (see stage 1)
  • ¼ litre of tomato juice

Method:

1. On a low heat fry the mirepoix (vegetable mixture) until the veg has caramelized but not burnt.
2. Add the red wine and reduce.
3. When all the wine has evaporated add the veal stock and tomato juice.
4. Bring to the boil for 10mins (30mins), skimming all the time.
5. Add the chicken carcass, bouquet garni and simmer for 20mins (1hr).
6. Strain through a colander.
7. Bring to the boil and reduce to the required strength.
8. Finish by passing through muslin.

Season with salt and pepper.

CHEF LAWRENCE KEOGH’S “QUICKIE” GRAVY RECIPE:

Ingredients:

  • Knob of butter
  • 1 onion v finely chopped
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced or crushed
  • Sprig fresh thyme (or dried)
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 2 beef stock cubes
  • 1 squirt tomato puree (2 tsp approx)
  • 1 pint water
  • 1 glass red wine
  • Juices from cooked joint, having poured off excess fat

Method:

1. Sweat the onions in the melted butter in frying pan over a medium heat until lightly golden brown & slightly caramelised.
2. Add garlic, bay leaf & thyme.
3. Cook until the garlic smells.
4. Add tomato puree & cook for 1-2 mins.
5. Sprinkle in the stock cubes, forming a burgundy coloured paste.
6. Pour in juices from around the joint, add red wine & water.
7. Bring to the boil & simmer gently for 30-40 mins until reduced by a quarter.
8. Pass through a sieve, or leave chunky, as preferred.

N.B. Vegetarians replace beef cubes with veg & obviously omit the juices from the joint.

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