Rick Stein arrives in the cultural city of Lucknow, reputed to be the curry capital of India and possibly the world. He explores this former Moghul stronghold in search for the best chicken korma and learns the complexities of making the perfect pulao. He is told that the food of Lucknow is the ultimate party food and joins thousands of partygoers as they enjoy one of India's major Hindu festivals.
Further north in the Punjab, he observes the age-old process of making jaggery and is recruited as a guest judge to find Punjab's new star chef. He cooks nimish from Lucknow, a dessert as light as air with hints of saffron, pistachios and cardamom, and a Punjabi favourite, paneer jalfrezi.