Episode 16

Episode image for Episode 16

Episode 16 of 27, Gardeners' World, 2010/2011

Duration: 30 minutes

Gardening magazine. Toby Buckland and Joe Swift are back at Greenacre enjoying the garden in full summer bloom. July is the time to sit back and enjoy your garden; to put your feet up and really reap the benefits of all the hard work you've put in over spring and early summer. But it also allows gardeners time for small weekend building projects, so Toby is getting stuck into building an ingenious herb spiral - an easy build with a cunning design allowing all the herbs you like to cook with to be grown in one small but beautiful planter.

Joe Swift is in the vegetable patch harvesting crops like peas, early potatoes and salad that are ready to eat but he also has top tips on sowing exotic Chinese veg now to ensure you still have crops to eat well into the autumn. Added to that he's got ideas to help make sure that aphids, slugs, snails and caterpillars don't get to enjoy your veg before you do.

Toby and Joe are also sorting through the prairie plants collected from the plant swap at Gardeners' World Live and planning how to achieve the most impact with them in the prairie border at Greenacre.

And Carol Klein is at Glebe Cottage in Devon looking into the robust and versatile Geranium family - there's a cheerful member of the family that will flourish in every soil type and situation.

Last on

Fri 23 Jul 2010 20:30 BBC Two except Northern Ireland (Analogue), Wales (Analogue)

See all previous episodes for Gardeners' World

  • Project: Herb Spiral

    Project: Herb Spiral

    A herb spiral is an ingenious way of growing a wide range of herbs in a small space. A design like this increases the planting area and creates growing niches for a wide array of culinary and medicinal herbs.

    The size of the spiral will be dictated by the size of your available area. Typically a 1.5 to 2m spiral diameter that rises to 1 to 1.5m will give you ample growing room for all the basic herbs and many exotics too. The spiral at Greenacre was designed to fit into Toby’s back garden between the vegetable beds, and is around 1.6 in diameter by about 800cm high.
    Choose an open sunny location for a herb spiral as most herbs need sun to develop the oils and concentrate the taste which will give your cooking such a depth of flavour.

    Materials used may be anything that retains soil; sleepers, stone, brick, cement blocks or even stacked bottles. We are using a sand stone that fits in nicely with the overall look of the garden. To save cost, you might want to use a less expensive material, such as breeze blocks, to support the internal structure where they will not be seen.

    Before starting your spiral you may want to lay some material to suppress the growth of weeds which may come up from the ground. Landscape fabric, cardboard or even old carpet, will keep the weeds down, and still allow for good drainage. If you are building on grass, remove it first; you want a solid footing for the walls. Once the grass decomposes, the walls will shift, and weaken the structure.

    First mark out the circle with a bamboo stake and some string. Sand works well as a marker on soil, marker paint works well on grass. Level the soil with a rake and then tread it to firm it up.

    When you are satisfied that the ground is level and solid, mark out your spiral. This will be your guide as you begin. Lay the first level of stone, making sure it is as solid as possible. Back fill with soil, and tread it in to keep the walls in place. Lay the second level of stone slightly back from the first, so the wall leans in toward the centre as you work up. Continue to backfill with soil, compacting it with each layer. It is this compaction that gives the walls their strength. If you wish, you can plant some herbs vertically into the walls as you go. Thymes and other creeping herbs are ideal for this; alpine strawberries are another option.

    Should you want to use mortar to hold the stone in place, do not back fill with soil as you work up, but add your soil at the end, once the mortar is dry.

    Depending on what soil you use, you may want to customize it to suite the needs of what you are going to be growing in your spiral. Most herbs will grow well in good quality topsoil, especially as the spiral is essentially a raised bed with excellent drainage. Horticultural grit or sharp sand will add extra drainage if you are concerned about your Mediterranean herbs surviving our British summers.

    Once your spiral has reached its finished height, take a moment to admire your handy-work, before you begin phase 2, the planting.

    Your spiral will be roughly divided into a sunny and a shady side, the top of the spiral having the most free-draining soil. Plant sun lovers like rosemary and sage on the top, and thyme, oregano and other Mediterranean herbs along the south-west facing, sunny side. Basils too will love this sunny warm location. The north-east side will be best for parsley, sorrel and chives; those that are happier in a cooler, more moist location. Mints and lemon balm are best kept in pots which you can sink at soil level as the roots of both these herbs can spread rapidly and become invasive.

    Toby mulched the herb spiral at Greenacre with a stone mulch. This has a number of advantages, primarily to keep the soil from splashing onto the leaves and keeping them fresh for the harvest. It will also suppress weeds and help the soil to warm more quickly in the spring.

    Remember to keep harvesting herbs, even if you are not using them all. You want to encourage fresh new growth, and keep them from flowering and surplus herbs can either be dried or sometimes frozen for use during the winters. At the start of the following year, replace herbs that are tired or those that have suffered over the winter. Cut hard back woody herbs like rosemary and remember to sow some basil for the window sill that you can plant out in early summer to keep the spiral looking fresh and to maximise its production of herbs.

    BBC Gardening – Herb gardens
  • Basic Herb List

    Allium schoenoprasum - Chives
    Allium tuberosum - Garlic chives
    Aloysia citrodora - Lemon verbena
    Apium graveolens - Celery leaf
    Artemisia dracunculus - French taragon
    Chamaemelum nobile - Roman chamomile
    Cymbopogon citrates - Lemon grass
    Galium odoratum - woodruff
    Hyssopus officinalis - Hyssop
    Mentha cervina - pennyroyal
    Mentha spicata - Garden mint
    Mentha suaveolens - apple mint
    Nepeta cataria - catmint
    Ocimum basilicum - sweet basil
    Ocimum basilicum 'Mrs Burns' - lemon basil
    Ocimum americanum - Thai lime basil
    Ocimum basilicum 'Horapha nanum' - Thai anise basil
    Origanum 'Hot and Spicy' - hot and spicy oregano
    Origanum onites - pot margoram
    Persicaria odorata - Vietnamese corainder
    Petroselinum crispum - parsley
    Rosmarinus officinalis - rosemary
    Salvia officinalis - sage
    Thymus vulgaris - garden thyme
    Thymus citriodorus - lemon thyme

    Find more herbs on the BBC Gardening Plant Finder
  • ORIENTAL BRASSICAS

    Oriental brassicas such as oriental cabbages and bok choy, have become widely available in the west. Subtle flavours when raw, crisp texture and good nutritional value make them a valuable addition to the veg garden. Most are in their prime in the autumn and winter, and as fast growers, many lend themselves to cut and come again.

    One of the key issues in growing these crops is their tendency to bolt. This is caused by day length and low temperatures in their early stages of growth. It can also be triggered by transplanting. Bolting is not a problem with cut and come again, because they are harvested young.

    The best bet is to delay sowing until early summer, or a few weeks after the longest day. As oriental brassicas on the whole do not like transplanting, they are best sown in situ of in cells, or direct sown.

    They are shallow rooted so require watering frequently but moderately, especially near maturity.

    Sow thinly, 1cm deep, you can scatter and grow as cut and come again, and eat the thinnings; or in rows, thin to 15cm or 25cm for large plants. Space according to size of plant required.

    BBC Gardening guide to growing brassicas
  • PLANT FAMILY: GERANIACEAE

    PLANT FAMILY: GERANIACEAE

    (picture taken by bradman334 and uploaded to the BBC Gardeners’ World flickr group)

    The family of geraniums offer some of the hardest working plants for the garden. From the humble red ‘geranium’ or pelargonium in a terracotta pot, the ever flowering hardy garden geranium to the sub tropical Geranium maderense, they all have a place in the garden and they more than earn their keep.

    The common family trait is in their unique pointed seed pod that springs open when ripe, releasing the seed far and wide. The common name for the family, cranesbill, comes from the beak like shape of this seed head, looking very much like the bill of a crane.

    Find more plants from this family on the BBC Gardening Plant Finder
  • JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 1: Pot up strawberry runners

    JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 1: Pot up strawberry runners

    Take advantage of the free plants on offer from your strawberries by potting up the runners. Simply pin down the runners at the point where the leaves are produced into a pot of compost. Leave these to root for a week or two and, when they are ready to stand alone, sever them from the parent plant and either pot up or grow on for the following year.

    More seasonal tips on the BBC Gardening calendar
  • JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 2: Watch for deficiency on tomatoes

    JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 2: Watch for deficiency on tomatoes

    Interveinal yellowing on tomatoes is most likely a sign of potassium deficiency. This can occur in soils that are light and sandy, or with plants that have been fed heavily with potassium. Correct this with a feed of Epsom salts at 20g per litre, or with a comfrey or seaweed solution. Do this a couple of times at fortnightly intervals.

    BBC Gardening Guide to growing tomatoes
  • JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 3: Deadhead roses

    JOBS FOR THE WEEKEND 3: Deadhead roses

    Unless you are growing rose varieties with showy hips, continue to deadhead. Removing the spent flowers will encourage new blooms, and keep the plants looking fresh. Remove individual flowers by snapping the stalk just below the head, or remove the whole flower head but cutting it down to the next set of 5 leaves.

    More tips for looking after roses from BBC Gardening

Credits

Presenter
Toby Buckland
Presenter
Carol Klein
Presenter
Joe Swift
Producer
Louise Hampden
Producer
Liz Rumbold

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