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Article by Brian Willis.
Boxty is a traditional dish found in
the "Border" Counties of Fermanagh, Cavan, Donegal,
and Leitrim . The main ingredient is potato
and this recipe can be traced back to pre-famine times
when potatoes were plentiful and the main source of
food. It's been suggested that Boxty was a way of adding
variety to a constant diet of "boiled spuds".
So how was it made in the "old days"? I'm indebted
to Margaret Gallagher for the following description,
which incidentally is how Margaret still makes Boxty
- for she lives in a thatched cottage with neither running
water, electricity, gas, telephone, TV or any of those
other "necessities" of modern life.
BOILED BOXTY (the traditional way)
Dust your crook (The crane over the fire) with a goose's
wing or beesum (Clump of heather). This is to clean
it and remove any soot which might fall into the pot.
Fill the pot with spring water and hang from the crook
over a blazing fire.
As the pot is boiling, mix equal quantities of Mashed
Potatoes and Grated Potatoes. The grated potatoes having
been wrung in a flour pack.
Add half of the above amount of Flour with a pinch
of Baking Soda and a pinch of Salt. Mix these ingredients
together adding Sweet Milk (cow's milk) to bind.
Flatten the mixture on a floured table and, with an
upturned porringer (mug), cut into Hurleys (see photo
later for a "Hurley") and drop into the boiling water.
Within 5 minutes these hurleys should rise to the surface
. Then leave to boil for 35 minutes. Remove them, slice
each one horizontally and fry in butter.
Incidentally the water left over from boiling is rich
in starch from the potatoes and was often used to stiffen
collars and cuffs.
Halloween
Traditionally Boxty was made to be eaten at Halloween,
but nowadays it can be bought in many Fermanagh shops
all the year round.
Margaret Gallagher and her colleague Kathleen Maguire
run the Belcoo and District Historical Heritage
Centre where there is a comprehensive display of local
artifacts and written records. It's open to the public
and you can get more details by phoning them on 028
6638 6536 (International 004428 6638 6536) They often
entertain groups of up to 40 visitors and are regularly
called upon to furnish everyone with Boxty.
So not having a goose wing or big black pot to hand,
I thought these two ladies were well qualified to show
me how Boxty is made in the present day.
BOILED BOXTY (for six people)
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| Kathleen and
Margaret get "stuck in" |
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Put a large saucepan of water on to boil.
Place two crossed metal spoons in the bottom.
This is traditional, but is still the best way
of ensuring nothing sticks to the bottom.
Take a quarter stone of potatoes (They used Kerrs
Pinks for my demonstration) and peel, cook, mash
half of them.
Peel and grate the other, raw, half. |
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| Mixing in the
milk and binding |
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In a bowl, mix the mashed and grated potatoes
together,
adding in about 2 lbs. of flour and a pinch of
baking soda plus a pinch of salt
Fold this mixture putting in milk for binding. |
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| Cutting out |
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Then lay out on the flour strewn table. I suggested
a board and was scoffed at for being so modern.
'No'- they insist - lay this mixture, about half
an inch thick, directly onto the kitchen table.
Now cut out the Hurleys using a mug, the edge
of which has been coated with flour to stop it
sticking. |
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| Simmering hurleys |
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The hurleys are then dropped into the boiling
water where they sink to the bottom, but magically
- if you have your ingredients' quantities right
- rise to the surface after about five minutes. |
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| Kathleen at
the pan |
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Leave them to boil for 35 minutes then lift out.
Drain and slice horizontally.
Fry in a little butter. |
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| "Any chance
of another one please?" |
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And how best to eat your Boxty?
Why, beside a turf fire of course. |
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Your responses:
I've made boxty with the recipe my mother grandmother and great- grandmother used. So congratulations to Cathy Flanigan Kelly(6-05+1-07) ,I think you got the REAL DEAL ! I am now passing this recipe onto my family. my husband loves to have it with curry. Its so easy ,and takes so little time.DO ASK SOMEONE TO JUST GRATE A FEW SPUDS!!!!!!!
Kathy Flanagan Kelly- Jan '07
When we were kids Mammy RIP made boxty and it was delicious.As
I remember it she made it from grated raw potatoes,flour
to thicken,a pinch of salt and a pinch of baking soda.This
was fried on the pan, which was greased with bacon fat or
lard.
Incidentally one year when I was home a neighbour gave me
some which was bought in a shop,but the taste was nothing
like the home made boxty Mammy made.
Margaret Reilly Diabo - Nov '06
I have tried for years to find the recipe for boiled boxty.
My beloved mother used to make it for us back home in County
Leitrim. I tried your recipe and it was just great, brought
back fond memories of my childhood and home. Thanks. Margaret
Montreal.
Kieran Burns - Sep '06
My mother in Enniskillen always made Boxty at Halloween, my
father particularly enjoyed it. I remember one year she wasn't
able to make it and my sister brought it from her home. She
had used MASHED potatoes in the recipe and my mother wasn’t
impressed. It's nice to hear that 'other' people make it the
way my sister did.....I'll have to tell mammy, mammy's originally
from Cavan!
Colum Maguire - Mar 06
I have been hunting round to get a boxty receipe for a long
time.
I remember when I was little we would go "down the country"
to Crosskeys in Co. Cavan in the summertime. My folks were
Cavan and Monaghan
The boxty was made in a "oven". A cast iron pot
hanging on the crane with the embers on top as well as the
fire below. When it was turned out after baking it had a golden
rind. It was soapy in texture and had a grey colour when sliced.
Delicious even if it was never fried. When we would come home
to Dublin we would take big lumps of it to school.
The buttermilk from the "dash churn" was another
treat. Out in the hayfield we would put the "gallon"
to our heads and lower the lumpy tart buttermilk. It had cut
in it.
Does anyone have the recepie for the above boxty?
Alice O'Donnell - Dec '05
Our mother always made boxty for us (her seven children) on
Holloween which was also her birthday. She made it the traditional
way and always fried the boxty in bacon fat. YumYum! I enjoyed
reading the receipe. Thanks for the memory.
Kathleen O'Callaghan - Oct 05
Thank you for bringing back such lovely memories of my childhood.
My mother always made the fried boxty in the heavy frying
pan over the open fire with plenty home made butter. My Aunt
Elly made the boxty pudding in a floured cloth made from an
old flour bag. This she would leave with us during Celidhe
and my mother would cut it into thick slices and fry it in
butter. The smell still lingers in my memory. We still make
it. But your article warms my hearth.
Annie Gammell Harrow, Middlesex - June '05
I am back today from visiting Margaret in her home. What a
woman!!! Her cottage is just amazing and she made us so very
welcome.
Cathy Flanagan - June '05
In my family Boxty was fried rather than being boiled and
the potatoes were all raw, grated - never boiled/mashed.
Ingredients were never measured, potatoes finely grated,
add flour until it becomes quite a stiff mixture and pinch
each of baking soda and salt. Then add milk to make a dropping
conistency, (as for pancakes), and fry in butter over a medium
heat making sure the centre is cooked. Serve spread with another
good layer of butter and forget the calories - it's all good
healthy fare.
Julia O'Keeffe - March 05
I was glad to find this recipe whish boils the boxty. I could
remember my mother making it but had forgotten how to do it.
She used to turn the mixture into a roll about the thickness
of black pudding. This was enclosed in gauze like material
and popped into a pot to boil. When it was cold she sliced
it and fried it to accompany the traditional fry up. I remember
it as very filling!!
Frances - March 05
Very informative. Never made Boxty myself, but have eaten
plenty and love it. Now I might be able to give it a try myself.
Thanks.
Caroline Workman - August '04
I'm doing some research for Slow Food - an international movement
to protect endangered local food products such as boxty and
need to gather evidence to show it is worthy to be admitted
to Slow Food 'Ark' .
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