Home region: Vancouver,
How long you surfing?
Since I was a punk kid.
3 sentences that describe you/what
All the loves of my life in order of importance: husband, father,
surfer, doctor, medical research scientist, professor of paediatrics.
Where/Why did you start surfing?
Santa Barbara California. Great love of the ocean and being in
Any surfing honours, comp wins
Only in my dreams. Unfortunately I wake up.
Quiver (ie detail/s of your board/s),
plus your fave board:
Longboards: Con 9’6”. A work of
art. Awesome glider and nose animal. Two others that aren’t
worth mentioning unless you need loaners or a boat anchor.
Shortboards: Two faves: Channel Islands 6’4”
tri-fin; Rainbow quad fish
Bodyboards: As if. You who would flame me wish
these were on my list.
"Surfing is getting more popular
in Ireland for sure". Discuss:
The great thing about Canada West Coast surfing is the lack of
crowds. Cold water surfing is still the best crowd control available.
I figure we have something in common with our Irish surf friends...besides
just being your escaped relatives.
Most surf friendly pubs / gigs
Tofino, BC: Cheesy old rusty trailer-turned
diner at the Botanical Garden. The best.
Cannon Beach, OR: The whole scene there is great
for surfers. Must be the town spirit, championed by local surfer
and Cannon Beach surf shop owner Mark Mekenas. Send the money
for the plug now, Mark.
Favourite Surfer/s and why:
Ireland’s own Shauna Ward. Go Shauna Go!
Kelly Slater because he epitomizes what is possible on a piece
of foam. Also a good reminder (at times) of what is wrong when
competitive thinking becomes obsession. Which is probably true
of all the greatest athletes.
Lisa Andersen should not be forgotten here either, or Pat O’Connell.
After Shauna of course.
Best thing about surfing:
Being in the ocean. Any ocean.
Your top music/reading/movies/tv/radio,
surf or otherwise:
Music: My children flame me by saying this makes
me sound old. Who cares. Classic rock rules: Dylan, Fleetwood
Mac, Heart to name three.
Reading: Try Alan Weisbecker’s Central
American Surf Odyssey: In Search of Captain Zero. A great surf
trip of the mind.
TV: Buffy the Vampire Slayer (watch it, then
Radio: Sirius satellite radio in North America
is the very best. Even get the BBC. But not Patterson. Good or
Movies: Endless Summer, Longer, Adrift. J Brother
films are great art. You can handle arty longboarding and great
music can’t you?
Any ambition as a surfer?
Surf until I die. Die while surfing. Hopefully when I am old
and used up. Despite what my kids say, that isn’t yet.
Dream surf trip:
Any place with my surfer girl wife. Even small waves are ok.
Still great to surf with this girl after decades together! Hoping
she Googles this and reads it so I can stay on her good side for
a few more minutes. But its still true!
Anything else to declare?
Cold water surfing is still the best way to keep the crowds reasonable.
As is taking a surf holiday with the kids after all their friends
are back in school. A great way to connect with your kids in ways
that trips during school holidays won’t allow. Teach a disabled
kid to surf!
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Clare | Sligo