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7 January 2010
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Autumn 2001
 
   
 

Sheila Chapman, of Sheila Chapman Clematis, advises on making the most of clematis

 


Choosing a site:

The ideal site for a clematis is one which retain moisture throughout the growing season but will not become waterlogged during winter. These conditions can be created by adding peat and compost to the soil when planting and providing shade for the roots in the form of gravel, bark, or, more naturally, other plants.

Planting:
When you have selected the position for your clematis dig a large hole (ideally 18ins x18 x18) and fork over the sides and base to improve drainage.
Add a few handfuls of bonemeal, two spadefuls of peat and plenty of well-rooted manure or garden compost if available. Cover with a 2in layer of peat mixed with garden soil, or John Innes No.3 compost if your soil is poor. Sheila Chapman with a display of clematis at the London Show
If you have chosen a large flowing cultavar these need to have 4in of stem below soil level – all other species need only 1ins below ground.
Herbaceous clematis do not need to be planted deeply.
If the plant is dry, place the plant in a bucket of water for 30mins before planting. Fill in the hole with more garden soil, compost or John Innes No.3 plus another handful of bonemeal and firm carefully being careful not to tread too close to the stems.
Water thoroughly – about two gallons. Two clematis may be placed in the same hole but for sanity’s sake it is advisable that they both belong to the same pruning group.

Feeding:
Clematis have huge appetites. Lightly hoe a good general fertiliser into the ground around the clematis in the spring, carefully avoiding the stems. Follow this with an alternate weekly feed of tomato fertiliser and Phostrogen or Miraclegrow (or similar), making sure the ground has been well watered first so the feed goes down to the roots rather than running of the dry surface. However once the buds starts to form, stop the feeding as this will shorten the following season.
In the case of Group 2 clematis, when the first flush is over resume feeding until the later buds appear.
An autumn mulch of well rooted manure plus bonemeal is always appreciated.

Watering:

Watering is of prime importance. In the first two years during the growing season regular watering is required. "Wilt" is usually blamed when a clematis starts to droop, however nine times out ten the plant is in desperate need for a good drink.

Pruning:
(Group 1) No regular pruning is required. If space is limited tidy plant as soon as flowering has finished.
(Group 2) No regular pruning is required. To tidy the plant however start at the top of each stem and cut just above a pair of buds discarding the dead tip. Also remove any dead or damaged stems.
(Group 3) Prune all stems back to 12in from the ground in mid-February.

Pots and Containers:
All clematis except the most vigorous species (armandii, montanas, tanguticas etc) can be grown in containers. The containers must be a minimum of 18in x 18 x 18.
After about three years it would be advisable to remove from pots and plant them in the garden.

Where clematis can be grown:
Clematis are extremely versatile and can be grown in tubs, over shrubs, through trees, with other climbing plants (especially roses), and up trellis, pergolas, walls and fences. Just let your imagination run wild!


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