2nd October 2007
Ponds may be as large as lakes or as small as
a paddling pool but the site needs to be level.
Where the ground slopes one side needs to be
built up otherwise the water will be overflowing
at the lower end before it is half way up the
other side of the hole in the ground.
It is nice to have a pond in full sun where
the light can reflect on the water surface but
dappled shade will help prevent green water
and algae that thrives on sunlight.
Positioning a tree or tall shrub on the south
side of the feature will ensure that for part
of the afternoon the foliage will cast shade
on the water.
Before committing yourself to a sunken pond
check the level of the water table in winter.
If it is high, rising above the base of the
hole, then the water will push up the butyl
or plastic liner throwing the pond water, fish
and plants out on to the surrounding ground.
Where the winter levels are high then the three
options are to either use a rigid, fibre glass
liner or shape the pond using a layer of waterproof
concrete. Alternatively the pond may be built
above the water table banking the soil to form
a raised water feature.
Where the expanse is sufficiently large wind
may cause water movement with ripples that catch
the light. Where wind is a problem is when water
is pumped to a high point and then allowed to
cascade down to the lower pond. As it tumbles
over ledges the wind will blow some of the water
over the sides lowering the reservoir level.
Tall water fountains where the water falls from
several levels will lose water through it being
blown out of the catchment area.
Ground that slopes to a level area may be designed
with a lower pond on the flat. The water is
pumped to a higher level and allowed to return
via a “stream” built on a liner
to retain the water.
there is to be running water then select a site
close to an electric power supply to drive the
For safety surround the pond with a fence to
keep children away from the water.
a garden pond
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