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You are in: Northamptonshire » Features

May, 2004
Living with the Maasai banner
Maasai children As she lives with the Maasai, Bree O'Mara, from Northamptonshire, is coping with little water and no flush toilets.

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Republic of Tanzania

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FACT FILE

• Tanzania has a population of 37 million.
• The Maasai number around 37,000.
• Life expectancy in Tanzania is 42 for men and 44 for women.
• Tanzania exports sisal, cloves, coffee, cotton, cashew nuts, minerals, tobacco.
• A common Maasai greeting is: "I hope your cattle are well".

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Part 4: Basic living

Living in such basic conditions one has to make adjustments. After nine months of drought, the long rains have finally come to the plains but still one cannot be profligate with water.

Water is more precious than gold in these parts and even though the water tanks are full at the moment, there is no facility for plumbed water.

Bathing is an economical affair; a bucket of water heated on a coal burner. But it does the job and I feel grateful to have the luxury of heated water at all.

When I get home to Northamptonshire a bath full of water will seem like wanton extravagance!

Toilet trouble

Bree's long hair
Bree's hair was put into braids

Washing my waist-length hair is a non-starter, though, so I recently had my hair braided Swahili-style, in a hundred tightly-wound cornrows. It took two days to do and looked great for the first 48 hours, but the braids hurt and tug at my scalp and it now just looks like a family of mice ploughed my head in haphazard fashion. Getting them out will be another ordeal entirely!

The other ablution facilities at my gesti are pre-Thomas Crapper. No porcelain conveniences these! So much so that I find myself going into hotels and restaurants when I am in Arusha just to experience the novelty of a commode and to hear the chain flush!

It's amazing the things for which you find new appreciation so far from home….

A nice cuppa

A giraffe
Daventry might have toilets but it doesn't have giraffes!

The thing about life without modern conveniences, as I have found, is that - despite all the obvious drawbacks - the singular benefits of not having them ultimately far outweigh the disadvantages.

Without the distractions of television, telephones, computers and email I have rediscovered the lost art of conversation and enjoy long debates and discussions with the Maasai and with my fellow volunteers over steaming cups of chai tangawizi (a delicious infusion of tea with ginger-root and sugar) and piping-hot bowls of maharagwe (a dish of boiled pulses).

OK, I may have over-romanticised that last bit just a tad; in truth I have had my fill of beans and rice and chapatti, but I am mindful that I am fortunate to have food to eat, to say nothing of eating three times a day. Many people in this remote corner of the globe simply don't.

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