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You are in: Northamptonshire » Features

May, 2004
Living with the Maasai banner
Maasai women in their finery
Maasai women in their finery
Bree O'Mara, from Northamptonshire, is living with the Maasai in East Africa. She discovers life is far from primitive.

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Republic of Tanzania

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FACT FILE

• Tanzania has a population of 37 million.
• The Maasai number around 37,000.
• Life expectancy in Tanzania is 42 for men and 44 for women.
• Tanzania exports sisal, cloves, coffee, cotton, cashew nuts, minerals, tobacco.
• A common Maasai greeting is: "I hope your cattle are well".

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Part 3: Warriors and teenage brides

A village
The Maasai have a community-oriented society

The Maasai live in "bomas" (enclaves) around the village. This is a very community-oriented society and families live together in cluster dwellings circled by a fence of thorn bushes

It's the women who build the houses, in fact! The same women who attend our class. They also carry the water, make the clothes, raise the children and live peaceably in their polygamous society. Men in the western world wish they had it this good!

It's a curious paradox, really, because contrary to all my expectations the women here are also strong-willed, feisty and highly entrepreneurial, running the curio stands and market stalls that provide the sole monetary income of many of these families. And they're happy, too!

Warrior

Lesaloy and Nosim
Lesaloy (left) is a newly-inducted warrior

I have become firm friends with one Maasai family in particular, the Olengunin's, who together have taught me a great deal about their way of life.

My young Maasai guide, Lesaloy, is an Oleng'unin and has lately been inducted as a "morani" (warrior). Along with the rest of his age-set he is one of the protectors of the village, a position which he takes very seriously.

His knife and spear -he carries two - are not just for effect; all morani have to kill a lion in the wild (and endure circumcision without anaesthetic!) in order to prove their mettle. At home we get our driver's licence and worship at the altar of legal inebriation. Go figure!

Teenage bride

Bree with members of the Oleng'unin family
Bree with members of the Oleng'unin family

There are so many Oleng'unin brothers and sisters that I can but marvel at the stamina and virility of Olemarle, the patriarch, who - at a sprightly seventy-four years of age - has recently fathered a brand new addition to the family and is about to take another bride, a pert and pretty 15-year old. There are already no fewer than four Mrs Oleng'unins: good ol' boy!

Both parties seem genuinely delighted at the prospect of the impending nuptials, and I do mean that sincerely. And who am I to question a way of life that has endured this long?

People tend to refer to this lifestyle as 'primitive', but in effect the Maasai simply distil life down to its very barest essentials. They don't get fat and soft and complicated like we do in the west and they don't moan or whine about their lot in life. It's very refreshing.

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