The great British fish swap

 
Billingsgate Market Billingsgate Market is the largest inland fish market in the UK. The original market traded in Lower Thames Street for 900 years, before moving to east London in 1982.
Fish The market is run by the City of London Corporation. Fifty-four licensed merchants trade 25,000 tonnes of fish each year, 40% of which is imported, and its annual turnover is currently estimated to be £200m.
Billingsgate Market Cod, haddock, plaice, sole and salmon (filleted and ready for sale) as well as shellfish, arrive overnight on lorries from as far afield as Scotland and Cornwall.
A fish at Billingsgate Market Exotic warm water fish such as parrot fish, tilapia and grouper also arrive from more distant waters, having been immediately iced, packed and flown directly to London's Heathrow airport.
A fish stall at Billingsgate Market It is still dark when, at 4am, a bell chimes to mark the official opening of the market and trading can commence.
Billingsgate Fish Market porters The only people permitted to move fish were traditional fish porters, a strongly unionised workforce who were employed by the merchants under by-laws dating from 1876.
A Billingsgate fish market porter However, the City of London Corporation repealed the by-laws resulting in most of the 93 fish porters being made redundant in April of this year. (Approx 35 of the 93 porters have now been rehired by the traders).
A woman choosing fish to buy at Billingsgate Market The buyers are mainly fishmongers, hoteliers and restaurateurs but a healthy percentage is made up of private individuals buying for their families.
Billingsgate Fish Market Most of the fish is chilled, rather than frozen. Few fish and chip shops buy from Billingsgate as most buy wild-caught frozen-at-sea fish from suppliers in Iceland and Norway.
Craig Duke, fish trader at Billingsgate Market The emphasis is on freshness but some species can be "too fresh". Turbot and Dover sole suffer from a form of rigor mortis and need to "settle down" before they are ready to eat.
Boxes of fish Fish merchant Alan Cook says: "A lot of people don't realise that the fishing depends on weather and tides. We are not looking in a field for it. It's trial and error."
Billingsgate Fish Market By 7.30am most of the fish has already been sold and many of the buyers have left. (Pictures by Emma Lynch)

Most of the fish caught by British fishermen ends up on foreign tables, while those visiting British chip shops end up eating cod or haddock from many hundreds of miles away. Why?

You could not hope to find a more traditional fish-and-chip restaurant in Britain than Steel's Corner House in Cleethorpes, Lincolnshire.

"The trick is not to change anything," says co-owner Ian Stead. "The decor is old-fashioned but people love it. A woman from America came in one day and said, 'I came as a seven-year-old child and it hasn't changed at all'."

Opened in 1946, Steel's has been serving haddock from the fish market in nearby Grimsby ever since.

But while taste in fish remains much the same, the industry that gathers it has constantly changed. The latest change comes as the EU moves to ban the practice of throwing dead fish back into the sea.

UK's deep-sea fishing fleet

Fish on the dock at Grimsby in its heyday
  • In 1951, there were 36,882 fishermen regularly employed and 5,039 occasionally employed.
  • Grimsby was the largest fishing port in the world, with 600 boats calling it home
  • There are now an estimated 12,000 fishermen, working on nearly 7,000 UK vessels
  • Newlyn, in Cornwall, has the largest number of fishing vessels in the UK (619) but many of these boats are small
  • Peterhead, Fraserburgh and Shetland have the largest capacity by gross tonnage

Until the 1970s most of the fish served in the UK - largely cod and haddock - was caught by British deep-sea fishing fleets, based principally in Grimsby and Hull in north-east England, and Fleetwood on the north-west coast.

The most fertile fishing grounds were in the deep, cold seas off Iceland and Greenland.

But defeat in the "Cod Wars" with Iceland led to the decline of the fleet, which was banned from venturing within 200 miles of the Icelandic coast.

Within a decade of the end of the Cod Wars Grimsby's distant water fleet had disappeared.

Nick Triplow, author of Distant Water: Stories From Grimsby's Fishing Fleet, said many of the fishermen struggled to adapt to life ashore: "The closest comparison is with a military combat zone, where you live with the adrenaline and learn to handle it. That is what it was like for them at sea with heavy machinery, slippery decks and big waves."

Many former fishermen developed drink problems or saw their marriages break up.

Despite the rise of McDonald's, KFC and thousands of Chinese and Indian takeaway restaurants, 250 million fish-and-chip suppers are still sold in the UK every year.

Now, with UK fleets unable to access the best spots for cod and haddock, most of it is imported from Iceland, Denmark or Norway.

"Ironically Iceland has built up its fishing industry on the back of exports to Britain," says Dr Ian Napier, a senior policy adviser at the NAFC Marine Centre in the Shetland Isles.

The quota system

  • Common Fisheries Policy (CFP) introduced in 1970s
  • Limits fishermen's days at sea
  • Quotas meant fishermen threw dead fish back into sea
  • Environmental groups have long campaigned against this
  • Practice is now likely to end

Scotland retains a "vibrant, active fishing industry" based in Peterhead, Fraserburgh and Shetland, with much of the catch travelling overnight by lorry for sale at London's Billingsgate market.

Scottish-farmed salmon and wild-caught cod, plus bream and brill from Cornwall, are among 150 varieties of fish and shellfish on sale there.

Vans arrive at the market from London's Heathrow airport, bringing warm-water species, such as grouper, tilapia, parrot fish, red snapper and squid, in chilled containers.

Many of the customers are from ethnic minorities where fish is an important part of their culture.

Horace Francis, who is of Jamaican origin, told the BBC: "I come down once a twice a month to buy stuff for the family. The kids like fish. It's mainly snapper and bream.

Map of key ports

"If we're cooking snapper it will be steamed or in a brown stew with vegetables, lots of fish seasoning, Caribbean-style, with a kick to it."

But a lot of fish caught by British fishermen bypasses Billingsgate and is exported to France, Spain, Italy, Russia and Japan. Nigeria is a major market for dried fish.

Elizabeth Stevenson's family firm runs a fleet of boats out of Newlyn, Cornwall and exports most of her catch of turbot, monkfish, megrim and brill to France and Spain.

"If it's landed at 3am today, it will be auctioned at 6am, packed up in special perforated paper and put on lorries by 3pm, chilled on ice," she explains. "It will go on the ferry from Plymouth or Poole and be in Paris by tomorrow morning."

Successive UK governments have encouraged the consumption of fish - especially oily fish like salmon, mackerel or herring - on health grounds.

But Britons are fiercely loyal to cod - 800,000 tonnes are caught globally every year, and about a quarter of that is consumed in the UK.

"There are lots of different species that consumers could be eating, but we are very conservative in this country and we are [governed] by consumer patterns," says Barrie Deas, chief executive of the National Federation of Fishermen's Organisations.

Grimsby imports Icelandic cod, which arrives in chilled containers from nearby Immingham docks.

Atlantic Fresh Limited supplies up to 20,000 tonnes of Icelandic fish a year, and the company's managing director, Orn Jonsson, says: "Iceland and Humberside have been doing business for over 100 years and there is a lot of Icelandic investment in the seafood cluster."

Jubilee Spirit at Grimsby The Jubilee Spirit preparing to sail from Grimsby. It was away for 10 days hunting flatfish.

The Grimsby area is responsible for processing 80% of the UK's seafood and is home to a cluster of firms such as Seachill, Coldwater and Sealord, which have exclusive deals to supply fish products to Tesco, Marks and Spencer and Waitrose respectively.

Earlier this year the Morrisons supermarket chain announced plans to create 200 jobs in the area by creating its own seafood processing factory.

Grimsby may be Britain's fish-processing capital, but nowadays only a handful of trawlers call it home and all are fettered by the Common Fisheries Policy.

It is an expensive business to run a trawler and skippers often have to go long distances to fish.

"You have to make every day count, so you have to be 'on the fish' as soon as possible," says Ross Crookes, skipper of the Jubilee Spirit, standing on the dockside at Grimsby.

"It takes 24 hours to get to the coast of Norway. We are looking for flatfish, maybe 300 or 400 boxes of sole or plaice," he said as he prepared to set off on a 10-day trip.

The plaice may end up in one of Britain's 8,500 fish and chip shops.

According to the Office for National Statistics the average price of a fish-and-chip supper rose from £2.42 to £4.74 between 1996 and 2011. But the rise is thought to be largely due to fuel costs.

It's still value for money, argues Gregg Howard, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers. "If you go into an Indian takeaway with £5 you wouldn't get much, but that £5 will buy you wild-caught frozen-at-sea cod, and chips."

Table showing imports and exports of fish
 

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  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 66.

    I recall watching a TV programme where holidaymakers were treated to pollack or whiting and chips, instead of traditional cod or haddock. They couldn't tell the difference.

    Neither whiting nor pollack are under threat, but it's the same old story - regulars won't try something new.

  • rate this
    0

    Comment number 65.

    Eat meat - much more tasty for you ..... beefburger or fishburger ... no contest ... bring on the meat ......

    All fish is very bland

  • rate this
    +4

    Comment number 64.

    62. LancashireLass
    If we reverted back to buying the produce we know comes from our land or shores then the country could perhaps get back on it's feet
    --
    A) What you can catch within 12 miles of the UK isn't great.

    B) EXPORTING fish brings in money. When we get £40 worth of Euros per Lobster its a damn good way of balancing the trade deficit.

  • rate this
    +5

    Comment number 63.

    I really can't get my head around these statistics, 800,000 tonnes of cod?! Personally not my favourite. I'm lucky enough to live in Jersey where most of whats caught locally is eaten locally. You really can't beat line caught mackerel or hand dived scallops- some of which are the size of your fist.

  • rate this
    +7

    Comment number 62.

    As British fishermen seem to be told when to fish, what to fish for, how many they can have and how big the fish should be, I am not surprised that the customer no longer knows what to do with it.
    If we reverted back to buying the produce we know comes from our land or shores then the country could perhaps get back on it's feet

  • rate this
    +5

    Comment number 61.

    It's partially down to fast food which is devoid of any non-edible stuff like skin, bones, guts, heads and so on. If the fast-food generation can't eat it all (preferably with their fingers) they don't want it. If only they saw how the stuff they do eat is actually made (MRM etc).

  • rate this
    +1

    Comment number 60.

    17.cthulhu
    32.Dale

    Most of the supermarkets I've been to have a pretty good selection - however if yours don't measure up you should speak to the manager and tell him what you'd like to see on the shelves. If enough people did this then you'd probably get some more variety.
    Other than that - try your local fresh produce market, you can usually find a small fishmonger there...

  • rate this
    +1

    Comment number 59.

    I've never understood why people buy cod, as it's the most tasteless fish around. Go to your local fishmonger and buy something better instead, go on, break away from the pack. Personally I'd recommend Halibut, scallops, swordfish, and lobster.

  • rate this
    0

    Comment number 58.

    In Britain we a) eat far more fish in our diets than we need when fish stocks are currently so vulnerable b) we eat so much fish that is unsustainable (cod and tuna) and c) eat so much shellfish that is often caught by destructive trawling methods. It is hypocrytical to do all these things and then roll our eyes and protest about the consumption and medicinal use of endangered species abroad.

  • rate this
    +1

    Comment number 57.

    Mad but obvious, we import all the rubbish freddie Foreigner dosen't want for our plates and sell them all the good stuff.. No wonder they can't stop laughing at us.....

  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 56.

    The price of fresh fish at the local supermarket is quite expensive, its a lot cheaper to buy frozen if you have a limited budget, same for meat too unfortunately.

  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 55.

    @25 Pedro
    Cantona's quote has nothing to do with fishing unfortunately. He was referring to the fact that reporters are like seagulls waiting for a scoop (or sardines of a trawler)

  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 54.

    On holiday in Greece last week we went to a local beach-side restaurent overlooking the sea and were proudly shown the 'catch of the day.' Believe it or not it included baby cod, about 7 inches long. I guess the Med is now fished out. Had to be a law broken somewhere.

  • rate this
    +9

    Comment number 53.

    In the 1950's we had enough fish in our waters, fishery protection operated, there was no over fishing problem.

    Then the EU happened, we lost many rights, Spanish and other vessels (flags of convenience) stole our fish, our fishing industry was decimated.

    The EU forced us to throw over quota dead fish back, then the next man wastefully caught more fish to make up his quota.

    Stupid really.

  • rate this
    +3

    Comment number 52.

    Haddock is sooo much tastier than Cod.

    Whitebate and grilled brie I can fully endorse too. *smacks lips together appreciatively* Nom nom nom.

  • rate this
    +3

    Comment number 51.

    The "why" part is answered in the article: there are plenty of species of tasty fish available, but most people have very conservative tastes and eat only one or two types. How to change this is the real question. Start by supporting the shops and supermarkets that do offer a range of fish by buying pollack, coley, mackerel etc. It's not that hard to find something other than cod and haddock!

  • rate this
    +12

    Comment number 50.

    44.Andy

    Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has been at the forefront of this issue for a long time and did an excellent TV programme about the scandal of EU regulations forcing fishermen to throw back dead fish. He organised a petition (Hugh's Fish Fight) and interviewed EU politicians and UK fishermen about the situation. Seems like it is starting to work...

  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 49.

    Go to your local fishmonger ask his advice, borrow a copy of Rick Stein's/Floyd's fish cookbook from your local library & have a go. We have as a nation neglected the great seafood on our shores, sticking to what's on offer at the supermarket. Your fishmonger will fillet fish for you, prepare squid/octopus, sell packs of frozen Cornish sardines, fresh mackerel & fresh herrings if you're lucky

  • rate this
    +1

    Comment number 48.

    its the fish and chip shops selling cheap fish and chips u have to watch for, they serve vietnamese cat fish instead of cod or haddock. Or in some rare cases posing as cod

  • rate this
    +2

    Comment number 47.

    I grew up near Steele's in Cleethorpes and am the daughter of a man who was for years a Grimsby fish merchant. Local people would rarely eat cod, haddock was our fish. Coley was fish for the cat. Plaice was acceptable and huss or dogfish (rock) was a "southern" thing. Perhaps the problem is regional rather than national.

 

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