Cream tea wars: Does British food need protecting?

 
Rhubarb; Devon cream tea; cutlery; Scottish farmed salmon; Cumberland sausage; Melton Mowbray pie

Devon cream teas are the latest British foodstuff to seek EU protected status. But do the UK's traditional dishes really need looking after?

Honest, simple and unpretentious. Such is the reputation of British cuisine.

Cornish pasties, Cumberland sausages, Melton Mowbray pies - moreish though all might be, none exactly conjure up images of Michelin-starred dining and culinary sophistication.

But all, regardless, have been granted the same gastronomic distinction as Champagne, Parma ham and Kalamata olives.

They are among a growing list of British staples that have been given protected geographical status by the European Union, offering a legal guarantee against imitators.

Supporters of the system say it has elevated the status of UK cooking and generated millions of pounds for businesses.

Start Quote

What's advertised as a Devon cream tea in the Lake District or somewhere like that might have been made with spray cream”

End Quote Paul Winterton Devon cream tea advocate

Critics, however, complain the scheme is illogical and bureaucratic, encourages cartel-like behaviour, sets regions against each other and stifles innovation.

It is a debate that mirrors Britain's relatively recent, television chef-fuelled upswing of interest in cuisine. And the latest foodstuff to provoke a row along this faultline is that most seemingly dainty of afternoon treats, the Devon cream tea.

A coalition of producers recently intensified a campaign to win protected designation of origin (PDO) status for the cream tea by unveiling a vast eight-foot scone at the 116th annual Devon County Show, with an entire marquee devoted to the bid.

But the move has provoked grumblings of discontent from next-door Cornwall, which fears that its similar but proudly distinct tea - cream on top of the jam, rather than vice versa as across the Tamar - could be eclipsed.

The system has form in provoking similar battles between the two counties. Pasty producers from Devon were infuriated when the Cornish variety was given protection in February 2011.

However, farm manager Paul Winterton, who is spearheading the Devon cream tea bid, says he is unconcerned about the prospect of re-igniting the West Country's animosities.

At stake, he says, is the very integrity of the cream tea itself.

Some protected British produce

Arbroath smokies
  • Kentish strong ale (PGI)
  • Cornish Clotted Cream (PDO)
  • Welsh Beef (PGI)
  • Arbroath Smokies (above) (PGI)
  • Yorkshire Forced Rhubarb (PDO)
  • Traditional Grimsby Smoked Fish (PGI)
  • Scottish Farmed Salmon (PGI)
  • Isle of Man Manx Loaghtan Lamb (PDO)

"What's advertised as a Devon cream tea in the Lake District or somewhere like that might have been made with spray cream," he shudders.

"It's about making sure what people are served is the genuine article. It's also good for the local economy. This isn't something we're doing on a whim - the application process could take up to eight years."

The task of winning recognition - which first involves persuading the Department of Environment, Food and Rural Affairs to back your bid - can indeed be a lengthy one. But there is little doubt that protected status can bring hefty financial benefits.

The scheme was launched in 1992, based on the appellation d'origine controlee label used by the French for wine.

Manufacturers can apply for PDO status - meaning products must be made entirely within a designated area - or protected geographical indication (PGI), meaning they are either prepared, processed or produced within a certain location.

After Welsh lamb was given PGI status, producers saw their income increase by 45% over three years after winning a contract to supply schools in Rome - Italian authorities had insisted pupils should eat only PGI-approved lamb and no suitable suppliers were found in Italy.

Sometimes achieving protection is not always to the advantage of producers, however. The manufacturers of Newcastle Brown Ale were overjoyed to win PDO status for their brand in 2000. But when production was moved to Gateshead and then Yorkshire, brewers Scottish and Newcastle were forced to apply for a cancellation.

Start Quote

There's no reason why a pork pie made in a factory in Melton Mowbray should be better than one made by a butcher in Norfolk”

End Quote Rose Prince Daily Telegraph

Geordie beer lovers might have been glad that there were obstacles in the path of their favourite tipple leaving Tyneside.

But others argue that such red tape gets in the way of businesses delivering the best deal to shoppers.

Daily Telegraph food columnist Rose Prince opposes the Devon cream tea bid, regarding it as spurious and reflective of a system she believes is largely arbitrary and illogical.

Although she welcomes the recognition the system has afforded to British artisan food like cheese, she believes that in general the scheme has favoured the interests of small groups of producers over those of consumers at large.

"The problem I have with the system is that it's about geography rather than taste," she says.

"There's no reason why a pork pie made in a factory in Melton Mowbray should be better than one made by a butcher in Norfolk, for instance."

Protected food designations

  • Protected designation of origin (PDO) - produced, processed and prepared in a geographical area
  • Protected geographical indication (PGI) - at least one of production, processing or preparation takes place in the area
  • Traditional speciality guaranteed (TSG) - highlights traditional character, either in the composition or means of production

Not everyone in the food industry is committed to either the pro or anti factions, however.

Others are more ambivalent, welcoming the boost the programme gives to British food in general and independent producers in particular while remaining wary of its excesses.

When Cumberland sausages applied for PGI status, food historian Ivan Day was commissioned to vouch for the recipe's regional ties.

He believes the historical basis for many applications are specious. Nonetheless, he recognises that they raise the profile of many worthwhile dishes.

"I'm sceptical about the whole thing," Day says. "Obviously the people who make it [to protected status] are pushing it for their own commercial advantage.

"But at the same time, I'm also happy that Cumberland sausages, for instance, have got recognition as a regional dish that we're making very well."

Perhaps it is this pragmatic middle road that is most in keeping with the British culinary tradition. There might, after all, be a peaceful outcome to the great cream tea wars.

 

More on This Story

In today's Magazine

Comments

This entry is now closed for comments

Jump to comments pagination
 
  • rate this
    +1

    Comment number 68.

    "if someone wants to produce a pasty outside of Cornwall then it should be named after where it is made."

    There is nothing special about making a cream tea except clotted cream. Hence no need for protection. Yet the Cornish pasty is a unique recipe, and thus should have its name promoted wherever and by whomever makes it. It would be ludicrous to name it a freshly baked Sussex or Yorkshire pasty!

  • rate this
    +17

    Comment number 60.

    Yorkshire puddings are Yorkshire puddings. It makes no difference if they are made in Halifax, Yorkshire or Halifax, Nova Scotia, they are still Yorkshire puds. Even TV celebrity cooks can have a bash at them and still call the mess they make a Yorkshire pud.

    The fact that Yorkshire puddings can be made by anyone, anywhere, and still be called Yorkshire puddings is what made them so popular.

  • rate this
    +12

    Comment number 52.

    "There's no reason why a pork pie made in a factory in Melton Mowbray should be better than one made by a butcher in Norfolk”

    There's also no reason why any fizzy white wine made anywhere in the world can't be better than Champagne.
    Personally I always find that a £5 bottle of Spanish Cava is a lot nicer than a £30 bottle of Champagne.

  • rate this
    +8

    Comment number 33.

    This isn't about food, it's about marketing. You can't improve a product by sticking a 'local' label on it and doubling the price.
    And, nobody in Cumbria is going to advertise a 'Devon Cream Tea'. If they do then I advise you to find another tea shop.

  • rate this
    +15

    Comment number 28.

    A few years ago we went to New Zealand and one day we walked past several tea shops advertising 'Devon Cream Teas. Wow, I thought.

    Neither the scone, cream, jam or tea/coffee had ever seen the borders of Devon, but surely the point is they were simply selling an idea. I knew what to expect if I ordered one and I found it quite charming; if a little bizzare! Devon/Cornwall; who cares.

 

Comments 5 of 8

 

Features

BBC © 2014 The BBC is not responsible for the content of external sites. Read more.

This page is best viewed in an up-to-date web browser with style sheets (CSS) enabled. While you will be able to view the content of this page in your current browser, you will not be able to get the full visual experience. Please consider upgrading your browser software or enabling style sheets (CSS) if you are able to do so.