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London Fashion Week 2004

London Fashion Week genericThat was the Week that was. As London felt the chill, the fashion world looked ahead to next year's spring-summer collections.

But with the catwalks now dismantled, what memories are we left with? Our man at the shows James Aldous checks the pulse of Fashion Week...

Ample displays of cheek bones you could comfortably hang a coat on, and a languid pallor oozing from every pore in the SW3 area... it can only mean one thing: London Fashion Week.

With nearly 50 designers exhibiting collections for Spring/Summer 2005, the capital comes alive with modelling, designing and publicising folk. And of course those of us eagerly awaiting a tangible demonstration of what everyone will be wearing next year.

Over the course of just five days, each show is a capsule of predictive speculation of which trends, colours, cuts and styles will be in vogue in six months' time.

Despite various claims that London Fashion Week pales in comparison to its counterparts in New York, Milan and Paris, this year proved that British fashion can comfortably blind the eyes of the clothes-hungry.

decadent days

From the Betty Jackson show
Quintessentially British: Betty Jackson's collection for Spring/Summer 2005 didn't disappoint

Betty Jackson - her company of the same name founded in 1981 - always provides a thoughtful and careful balance between fashion and practicality.

There is always a touch of tea-on-the-lawn in her quintessentially British designs and this year was no exception with a lot of blushed pink and pale blue and even more muted natural colours often finished with Moroccan-inspired embroidered beads and Apache-style accessories.

Her collection, she says, was inspired by "decadent days of the thirties together with the louche, international lifestyle of the seventies".

In direct contrast, the Royal Academy of Arts played host to the Top Shop 'New Generation' designers. One in particular, Danish-born Camilla Staerk, a graduate of Bromley's Ravensbourne College, produced a fantastic display of creative talent that focused on black and white, softened with a liberal application of leather.

From the Camilla Staerk show From the Camilla Staerk show
Ravensbourne College graduate Camilla Staerk exhibited as part of the Top Shop 'New Generation'
Many of her designs focused on a simple palette of black and white topped off with leather trimmings

Whereas well-established designers like Betty Jackson seek inspiration from opulent periods of a bygone age, Staerk looks to contemporary culture with an emphasis on modern architecture and the work of European intellectuals such as Milan Kundera.

key players

Other top shows on offer included Scott Henshall's 'Chocoholic' collection, which showed at the Saatchi Gallery and played host to the ultimate B-list stars, from Kate Lawler to that girl from Hollyoaks no-one knows the name of.

From the Robert Cary-Williams show
In the pink: Robert Cary-Williams' designs made use of metallic detail

Sophie Anderton, Elize du Toit and Georgina Byrne all made appearances on the catwalk in a show that featured heavy use of bright pink, gold and silver. The show was a tribute to Geordie culture with sponsorship from Newcastle Gateshead Council.

Typically (or should that be fashionably?) late - to the tune of 90 minutes was Robert Cary-Williams' show titled '1917'. Featuring strong military influences, the collection was traditionally avant-garde with natural fibres combined with metallic detail as a key theme.

In retrospect then are these five days a firm enough statement to help assure the future of British Fashion?

Hilary Alexander, Fashion Editor at The Telegraph, didn't seem too worried about the absence of some of the key players this year:

"Paris and Milan are growing too big. It's not a bad thing that some of our designers choose to move (and show) abroad because it gives new, exciting talent the chance to thrive."

Same time next year anyone?

See also: 10 fashion tips for the unfashionable

Useful links: London Fashion Week (The BBC is not responsible for the content of external websites)

Now go to our Celebrity index for more on London's celeb scene

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