 Today
seemed especially hot and the rucksack seemed heavier than usual.
I tend to be over-cautious when I travel and pack everything bar the
kitchen sink.
I’d
barely walked a mile when my legs were turning to jelly and my head
fuzzy from car fumes. I headed up the Plaza de Revolution and came
upon a petrol station that seemed like a good place to stop. I barely
made it across the forecourt before collapsing in a sorry heap.
As
my sight began to clear and I noticed a man approaching me. He was
tall, well dressed and looked more Mediterranean than Cuban. He
introduced himself as Lazaro, and told me about the apartment he
had for rent. I liked his easygoing manner and his clearly spoken
Spanish. I tried to sound non-committal, preferring to find my own
digs but thought there was no harm in looking. He helped me to my
feet and off we went.
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Pete Keane
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He
could see I was exhausted and made it known the apartment was only
two blocks away. It was an offer this weary traveller could hardly
refuse.
As
it turned out the apartment was delightful, it was comfortable,
secure and best of all was the balcony. Lazaro made coffee and we
spent the afternoon chatting about our respective lives. We conversed
in English as he was very keen to improve his, a must-have qualification
for the ‘Casa Particular’ business. Born in Havana 1962,
he left school and worked full time whilst studying mechanical engineering
at night. He graduated six years later and settled into his career.
However, it wasn’t long before he realised the wages were barely
enough to live on.
In
2001 his mother gave him the apartment here in Vedado. Desperate
to escape the endemic poverty of his country he made the decision
to turn it into a Casa Particular, which he would run full time.
He said the first year was especially difficult and spent long hours
working as a taxi driver to supplement his income. His first clients
were a couple of Afghani refugees sent by the United Nations High
Commission for Refugees. Since then he has accommodated Italians,
Greeks, Spanish, Mexicans, French, Austrians and many others. For
Lazaro, the best part of the job is meeting new people of different
cultures.
I then
asked him to comment on the current state of Cuba. “We are
tired,” he said, “but with the right kind of government
we could be the best country in the world.” He highlighted
the grinding poverty that is an every day reality for his people.
He was also adamant that a Capitalist economy was the only realistic
option available, were Cuba to ever compete on an international
scale. He was particularly bitter towards Fidel and his absolutist
style of politics.
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Lazaro
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After
this frank discussion we sat in silence for a few moments. I then
realised how privileged we are in the West, how we enjoy a far greater
level of control over our lives. Sensing that he might have killed
the moment, Lazaro then jumped up smiling and said, “No worry
my friend, no worry. These are not your problems. Come with me,
I take you to the supermarket.”
As
we walked into town I felt a great sense of peace and achievement
come over me. Four years of dreaming had finally come true. The
streets were damp from another recent downpour, giving everything
around me a clean and vibrant smell. New and exciting sounds filled
the air. I could hear the Spanish language lilting in that unique
and lazy Cuban way. Huge banana plants arched over the high walls
of spectacular mansions. Children played baseball in front of aged
American cars, the likes of Chevrolets and Lincons. I returned to
the apartment as dusk was falling. Supper  was
a simple affair taken on the balcony. Up above me a large Havana
moon was casting gentle shadows and a real sense of peace descended.
Share
your travel stories and pics. Email them in to lancashire@bbc.co.uk.
The
views expressed on this page are those of the contributor and the
opinions expressed are not necessarily those of the BBC.
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