"Today’s leg was a bit of a non-event really. We leave Jaisalmir at ten past seven in the morning. The road to Bikaner being dry, dusty and lined with increasing numbers of pilgrims. Absolutely nowhere for water, fruit or sustenance of any description. As the miles tick by I find myself squirming in the seat, dry and desperate for a drink. Pappu senses my distress and passes me his bottle of water. It's only after tasting do I realise that it must have been his radiator stock. It is full of bits and has a hateful, rancid quality to it. As we pull up to a rail crossing I dive out and regurgitate. Net result - I'm now twice as dehydrated. Thanks Pappu. "Shortly after vomiting, the train comes hurtling towards us. All along the top sit a stream of fourth-class passengers. You really wouldn't want to fall off one of these things. They stand much higher than the ones we are used to. Hours pass and we eventually find ourselves in Bikaner accepting an overpriced and outrageously camp boudoir for the evening. Cash is dwindling so we've decided to share a double room. The thought of trudging further into town for something cheaper is not an option so we dump our bags and collapse. Everything is frilly and pastel tones. Even the mosquito net is decorated with pink bows. Have we been given the bridal suite?!
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"Once more the heat is stifling and the fan is left on all night. Brian (a.k.a. snore-master) has a closely run match with the fan for 'loudest in the room' contest. I meanwhile, romp home in pole position in the 'sleep is for wimps' competition. At the breakfast table my exhaustion is blown away instantly by the most incredible creature I've seen on this journey. A psychedelic grasshopper lands on the table. It skips about for a couple of minutes before continuing on its travels, leaving me enthralled and delighted. "En route to Junjunun we take a break. We are pretty much on the last stages of desert land. I climb over a small and dune and am rewarded with some rather amazing mud houses. My photography is soon disturbed by twenty or so kids screaming the ever-present manta of 'rupee, rupee.' Back into the car and on we go. The change in environment is immediate. One minute we are surrounded on all sides by sand and dry air - then suddenly everything is green. Villages come into view, trees, people, livestock, all threaded together by an ancient single track road full of potholes and ditches. "That same potholed road carries us safely into the small town of Junjunun. By 2 pm we are sitting down to dinner and I am already fantasising about my next adventure. Jammu, Kashmir, Bhutan. I am definitely up for something a little more hardcore. "Brian opts for siesta and I check out the tiny but most excellent pool out back. After a lovely swim and sunbathe I head out into the town. I am directed to a small temple. I buy some flowers and make an offering. I ask for a blessing. I pray that I will return to the UK with an increased spiritual awareness. I have come to realise that here in India, the line between fact and mythology is of no importance. I have also realised that all our actions have consequences. How each individual has the power to create happiness or despair, both for ourselves and those around us. "Feeling suitably enlightened I return to the hotel and have a much needed cup of tea before bed."
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