Your stories

Hick launches off the "the step"

Those of you who have seen the film Point Break will understand how important finding that ideal perfect wave is for surfers.

Some would argue that there is no such thing. That it is indefinable and certainly a folly to chase, best left to dreamers and idealists.

But surfing is a sport that attracts its fair share of dreamers. One man that has devoted most of his adult life to finding this oceanic nirvana is Jerseyman, James Hick.

BBC Jersey caught up with him while he was back in Jersey preparing for another trip to the legendary surfing spot, Shipstern Bluff in Tasmania.

Why surfing?

James first got into surfing as a young lad in St Ouen.

“My brother surfed and everyone wants to be like their older brother, but it was my uncle who first took me down he took me surfing. I was immediately hooked,” James explained.

James’ quest has taken him to all parts of the globe, from South Africa to Australia to the Far East. But it is Hawaii that is the most awe inspiring.  

Awesome dude - Hick catches a big one

James said: “I spent some time in Indonesia and everyone you’d meet was saying that it was nothing on Hawaii.

“I feel that if you are really into your surfing you should definitely go to Hawaii. There are no waves like it. It is so powerful.”

James finances himself though a mixture of sponsorship and whatever work he can pick up in Jersey.

James said: “It really helps if you can go halves on a jet ski. If your can get your sponsors to pay for your flights then you are laughing.

“I am back for a few months to rustle up some cash, but I have booked flights to South Africa and Australia. If I hadn’t done that I would be going mad.”

James intends to spend 4 months in Australia, basing himself in Tasmania. From here he says he will “chase as many swells as he can.”

Shipstern Bluff

James will be staying in Hobart near to Cape Raoul National Park, a place he describes as “pretty Jurassic.”

Surfing terminology aside, the photos suggest it is one of the most beautiful and remote places in the world.  

James said: “It is like something out of Lord of the Rings. It is just wildlife and nature and it is stunning. You feel pretty insignificant.”

Wipeout: note oncoming reef bottom right

James says the people and the lifestyle are what he loves most about his chosen sport. In common with many surfers, he has a deep affinity with the natural world.

Physical boundaries

James said: “I know I sound like a hippy, but with surfing I don’t think you can get closer to the earth.

For that moment when you are on the wave you don’t think about anything else. Perhaps it brings clarity to your thoughts.”

For James, competitive surfing plays second fiddle to chasing “the big one.”

James said: “I love competitive surfing, but this is what I want to focus on now. I am not going to fly around the world doing competitions. It’s not where my hearts is at.

“I want to be scared and push my physical boundaries. Rather than be competitive, we cheer each other on and look out for one another in the surf.

Locally, surfing secrets on a six-foot swell is pretty beautiful, but I can’t wait to get back to Shippies. It is spectacular.”