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  Inside Out - North West: Monday 2 June, 2003

MOUNTAINEERING'S BIGGEST MYSTERY

Graham Hoyland climbing a mountain
Graham Hoyland believes Everest was ascended in 1924
Read Graham's chat

Celebrations to mark the 50th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tensing’s ascent of Mount Everest have reopened debate about whether they were actually the first to climb the world’s tallest mountain. Graham Hoyland believes not...

Some believe Hillary and Tensing were preceded by two North West climbers 29 years earlier, George Mallory from Cheshire and Sandy Irvine from Birkenhead.

Mallory and Irvine made a final bid to become the first to climb Everest on June 8 1924.

They were last seen going strong for the top just eight hundred feet short of their goal.

But then thick cloud enveloped Everest and they disappeared into the mists of time. They were never seen again.

Vital clue

Among those on the fateful 1924 expedition was Howard Somervell from Kendal.

Antique camera
Somervell's camera like this could solve the mystery

He came close to the top without using oxygen but had to turn back within sight of the summit.

On his way down he met Mallory and Irvine coming up. Somervell gave Mallory his camera to record his momentous achievement.

To this day, the camera has never been found. Experts say amazingly that it might still be possible to get images from the film even after all these years.

As the camera may hold the key to the mystery of who was the first to ascent Everest, it has become the holy grail of mountaineering.

Intrigued

One of those who believe that Mallory and Irvine did succeed is Graham Hoyland.

He says, "I have always thought they could have done it. I think the spirit of the man would have gone for it."

Peter Stevenson and Graham Hoyland in the Lake District
Graham practises in the Lake District

Graham is one of the elite group who have climbed Everest. He has been to Everest five times and in 1999 he mounted an exhibition which discovered Mallory’s body.

Unfortunately, the camera was not on Mallory’s body, so the mystery is still far from solved.

Quest

Each year seems to bring fresh discoveries on Everest.

Just a few weeks ago the British Royal Marines expedition to the mountain had high hopes of finding Sandy Irvine’s body after one of the sherpas claimed he’d seen it on a previous expedition.

But for Graham the highs of expectancy soon became the lows of reality as nothing was found.

Mallory's watch
Mallory's watch was one of the items recovered from his body in 1999

This hasn’t deterred Graham from his quest. He will return to Everest this September.

His dream is to fine Irvine’s body and find the camera.

Nothing will shake him from his belief that it should be the names of Mallory and Irvine and not Hillary and Tensing who claimed the mountain first.

Legend

Perhaps the mystery will never be solved and the legend will grow and grow.

In the meantime, it is ironic that the only memorial to Mallory in the North West is a stained glass window in the church in Mobberley.

This is the same church whose tower Mallory used to climb over a hundred years ago as a small boy when his climbing obsession was just beginning.

See also ...

Inside Out: North West
Graham Hoyland's chat

On bbc.co.uk
BBC: Everest online
BBC holiday: Nepal

On the rest of the web
National Geographical
The Mountain Institute

The BBC is not responsible for the content of external websites

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