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28 November 2009
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Tuesday 24 July: Halfway there

By Nathan Williams

'Sea Stallion' moored in Kyleakin bay
'Sea Stallion' moored in Kyleakin bay 
With the stronger wind we made good progress and arrived at Skye shortly after midnight – catching the favourable tide. Our base for the night was Kyleakin. Unfortunately there was nowhere for 'Sea Stallion' to berth so it had to be moored in the bay. That left 'Island Fox' with the job of ferrying the crew onto land. Since it can only take an additional 7 passengers at a time that was quite a job and the last crew member wasn’t off the boat until 4am.



Today was probably the warmest and sunniest day we’ve yet had, giving us a stunning view of the hills of Skye. Just across the bay from us is the ruin of Castle Moil. Local legend has it that a Norse Princess once lived in the castle. She set up a profitable scheme by which she charged ships a few coins for passage through the nearby channel. The legend also states that for a few more coins she would treat the passing sailors to a quick eyeful of her bosom, giving her the nickname Saucy Mary. No such rude behaviour from our Scandinavian visitors of course!

A Viking haircut in action
A Viking haircut in action 
Being almost exactly halfway through the trip it was time for a spring clean. The ship was emptied of all its contents, the floorboard were taken up, and the insides given a good scrub. All the bits of food, and other detritus from 65 people, has a tendency to collect under the floorboards where it can start to give off a distinctive and rather unpleasant odour. Actually, says Dylan, the smell isn’t nearly as bad as expected – probably because of the rain helping to wash things down on a regular basis. Nevertheless, a good clean is definitely needed. Some of the crew also needed sprucing up and one of the women on board took a turn as ship’s hairstylist.

This evening the new sailors arrived. Most had come over from Denmark but there were also arrivals from Ireland and the USA. Triona is joining the ship here – replacing Diarmid as the Irish representative on board. She’s been avidly following 'Sea Stallion’s progress. 'I was hoping the ship wouldn’t get too far and have done all the best sailing' she said. 'Occasionally I was glad to be sleeping in a warm bed but mostly I was jealous.'

The ship is scrubbed in the sun
The ship is scrubbed in the sun 
Tomorrow we’ll have a day with the old and new members of the crew here on Skye. It’ll be a day of stories, gossip and goodbyes. Most of the crew are doing the full stretch and for them it’s a chance to reflect on the journey so far and prepare for the voyage ahead.

Published: 2007-07-25



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