The crew of the 'Sea Stallion' prepare to depart from Kirkwall
At 3pm on Friday we left Orkney with mixed emotions. We were all looking forward to sailing again and in particular seeing the Scottish coast. But we had also received a very warm welcome in Orkney and could happily have spent a few more days here exploring the islands and enjoying the local hospitality. As the ship rowed out of Kirkwall harbour, the hundreds of well-wishers on the quayside gave a rousing three cheers, and the crew gave their customary Viking roar back.
The crew rowing out of the Orkney Islands
The next few hours were very hard work for the crew. We needed to head north into the wind to get out of the Orkney Islands and that meant hard rowing. It was also a race against time or rather against the tide. The tidal currents there are very strong, so we had timed our departure to have the flow in our favour. The crew rowed for about five hours before they could turn and sail west using the wind. We had made it in time and although the wind was fairly gentle, it was blowing in the right direction. It seems as if the Sea Stallion’s luck has changed.
There are a number of theories as to why the weather was so bad for the first half of the trip. One theory blames a cursed coin that Carsten was given by some mysterious visitors at the launch (Carrsten made sure he threw the coin away in Orkney just in case). Other crewmembers blame the 'Cable One' – perhaps it was too comfortable and fate had been punishing them. Both theories had the advantage of predicting fair winds from now on. Seafarers are traditionally a superstitious lot – which is not surprising when you consider that their lives are constantly under the influence of fate.
The 'Sea Stallion' at sunset
I decided to spend that night on the ship – my first ever night out at sea in an open boat. In many ways I’d picked a good night – there was no rain (a rarity on this trip) and the clear skies meant a beautiful sunset. This also meant a cold night, most said it was the coldest night yet. Luckily I’d decided not to take any chances and had put on just about everything I owned! With four t-shirts, three shirts, a woollen jumper, two fleeces and a survival suit on I was just about warm enough and even managed to get a couple of hours of sleep.
It was fascinating to watch the ship at work at night. In contrast to the day when everyone is talking, joking around and working, at night a gentle peace settles over the ship. Half the crew are awake at any one time, but they all speak in whispers and move around as little as possible. With the steady wind the sailing itself was easy and the Atlantic was surprisingly calm. Every four hours the shift changes and there’s a brief flurry of activity as one half of the ship gets up and raids the chocolate store whilst the other half settles down to get a bit of sleep. Then the peace returns.
I woke in time for the sunrise which was even more beautiful than the sunset. The coast was now just visible and as we got close, the stunning cliffs of the Scottish mainland started towering above us. The day brought similar weather – calm seas, a steady wind and no rain. By mid afternoon we were approaching Cape Wrath. The name sounds as if it spells severe conditions, even danger. In fact Wrath derives from the Norse 'hvarf' meaning a turning point – an illustration of the area’s Viking heritage. Nevertheless, Cape Wrath is known for large swells and vicious winds. Today, though, we were fortunate and although choppy in places the sea never posed a risk to the 'Sea Stallion'. We reached our destination, Loch Inver, by the evening and tacked into the beautiful bay.
A friendly seal says hello
Today, we’re all resting as befits a Sunday. The local RNLI held a fundraising day here with a Coastguard helicopter performing stunts overhead which provided some excitement. We’ve also had regular visits from a friendly local seal that keeps popping his head up to see what this strange looking vessel is. Tomorrow the plan is to head on towards Skye and more stunning scenery.
