Journey 3
Celia Fiennes
Solway Firth
Why undertake a risky crossing only to leave straightaway?
Celia Fiennes’ travels took her into Scotland, but only very briefly.
Her rapid return was even more surprising, given the difficulties she encountered crossing the border at the Solway Firth, north of Carlisle. With no bridges for miles, anyone wanting to cross the border in 1698 had to wade across – now the motorway transports you in seconds.
The Firth is a treacherous area of sands and marsh, where incoming tides can trap the unwary. There was a saying
at the time that no-one crossed without first writing their will. Nick, not a frequent or comfortable horserider,
elects to recreate the journey in full. It confirms to him what a remarkable woman Fiennes was.
But once across, she barely paused in Scotland. The same prejudices concerning poverty and laziness convinced her there was nothing of interest. Though she clearly wasn’t a great social reformer, Nick believes we should only judge Fiennes by the standards of her day.