|
Andrew White from Surrey asks:
My tomato plants in the greenhouse are going
brown and a lot of the tomatoes have brown patches on they just
seem to be falling off the plants once they go brown what is causing
this please advise?
|
|
Reg answers:
If the foliage is going brown and brown patches are appearing all
over the fruits I think that your plants have potato blight. This
is a devastating fungal disease that once you plants are infected
spreads like wildfire and there is no chance of controlling it.
The best thing really would be to clear the plants out and wash
down the greenhouse with a garden disinfectant or burn a sulphur
candle in there.
Next year try a blight resistant variety like Ferline from Thompson
and Morgan Seeds.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Eilidh Tripp from Inverness-shire
asks:
I have a dwarf plum tree in its second year
should I and how do I prune it.
|
|
Reg answers:
If your bush plum is only two years old you will need to do a bit
of training to help to create a good balanced shape. This is done
just after the foliage has appeared in spring as plums must be pruned
when they are inactive growth, so that the cuts are able to heal
quickly, thus disease is kept at bay.
Take a look at the tree and remove completely any misplaced or weak
shoots or any crossing or rubbing branches. Then look at each branch
and check the side shoots arising from them (known as sub-laterals).
Shorten two or three of the strongest growing ones by half to a
bud pointing in the direction that will lead the growth in the desired
direction. Any shoot emerging low down on the trunk should also
be completely removed.
In the third and subsequent years there is not much pruning needed
just prune branch leaders that are growing horizontally, or weak,
back by about a quarter. Again try to make the cuts just above a
bud that will take growth in the desired direction.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Carole Kessell from Cheltenham
asks:
Dear Reg, When is the best time to move a
shrub rose. It is two years old and needs more space than where
it is now.
|
|
Reg answers:
The best time to move your shrub rose would be in autumn when all
the leaves have fallen off.
Lift it with lots of soil still around the roots and try to dig
the replanting hole first so that the plant is out of the ground
for the shortest possible time. Firm it back in well and water it
regularly next spring/summer.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| David Jenkins from Builth
Wells asks:
My neighbour planted a eucalyptus tree 20yrs
ago. Will the roots affect my property? It has grown to about 70ft
and it is 18ft from my property.
|
|
Reg answers:
There is certainly a possibility of this with Eucalyptus trees
especially if you are on heavy soil.
However I am in no real position to judge, so the best thing would
be to get an opinion from a QUALIFIED local tree surgeon or the
tree officer from your local council.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Ian Brown from Eagglescliffe asks:
We have toadstools growing in the lawn. Is
there a way to kill/remove the toadstools, without then coming straight
back?
|
|
Reg answers:
There are currently no products available to gardeners approved
for use against toadstools on lawns. If these are just random toadstools-
not ones growing in organised rings or crescent shapes- they are
just the result of fungi rotting down some organic debris buried
in the soil. Old tree roots would be a good bet. So they are not
doing any real harm and if you collect them up and put them in the
refuse bin they will stop appearing about mid November depending
to some extent on the weather.
If, however, you would like to do something to discourage them
here is an old recipe used by gardeners since at least Edwardian
times. Take a watering can and put 2oz. of sulphate of iron (available
at garden centres) in the bottom and add a little warm water. Stir
this so that the powder is dissolved in the water then top it up
with cold water to about one gallon then add a dessert spoonful
of washing up liquid, stir in gently.
Then thoroughly spike the affected area with a garden fork and
water on the solution at the rate of one gallon to one and a half
square yards.
That will green up the grass and upset the fungus at the same time.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Tina Forrester
from Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire asks:
A friend moved house and gave me a money
tree (for luck!) After a two weeks all of the leaves have fallen
off it. Is there anyway I can save it or is it too late?
|
|
Reg answers:
It wasn't very lucky for the plant was it?
The houseplant usually called the Good Luck Plant or Money Plant
is Crassula argentea, a robust evergreen succulent with almost tree
like branches and thickish green leaves.
Now usually when someone kills one of these it is through over
watering it as they will thrive best on gentle neglect in a brightly
lit position.
Clear away all the dead leaves and just lift a small section of
bark away from the surface of one of the branches using your thumbnail
or the blade of a knife. If the cells you exposed just under the
bark are green and moist then all is not lost, but if they are brown
and dry then that part of the branch is dead.
If you get the "dead" result keep trying moving back
towards the trunk each time until you do get green tissue and then
prune off the dead portion.
Where the compost is sodden and the roots have filled the pot I
would just remove the pot and stand the plant, with the rootball
exposed, on the draining board overnight. That will help to dry
the compost out much more rapidly.Then pop it back in the pot and
water sparingly, giving your plant a chance to re-shoot.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Lily Barnes from Stockport asks:
Why are the leaves turning yellow on a weeping
fig tree in a conservatory?
|
|
Reg answers:
Well there are lots of possibilities here ranging from too little
water to too much water, via insufficient feeding, too much hot
sun or the plant needs potting on.
So I would make sure that the plant is not getting lots of hot
sun remember that sunlight is powerful through a clear conservatory
roof, and I would also stand it on a wide saucer containing moist
gravel so that moist air is rising around the foliage.
Make sure that you have the right watering regime, keeping the
plant JUST moist at all times and feed every 10 days April to end
of September and once a month otherwise. Use whatever houseplant
food you like.
Stick your finger down into the compost for two reasons:
- to check how moist the compost actually is under the surface.
- to see if the compost is totally congested with roots.
Also have a look at the bottom of the pot to see if there are roots
trying to escape through the drainage holes, if so re-pot it SOON.
Only go up by a maximum of two pot sizes and use a good houseplant
compost.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Kate from Belfast asks:
Hi I have a Japanese maple (22 years) I recently
topsoiled my garden and moved the tree to a different part unfortunately
I didn't get all the root ball and it appears to be drying out even
though I'm watering it each night. Is is a gonner or can I save
it and how?
|
|
Reg answers:
Yes you are probably right to say that the tree is suffering as
a result of being moved at the wrong time of year.
You can try to save it by making sure that the soil remains moist
and laying a mulch of garden compost, bark or some other material
over the surface of the soil to hold moisture in.
If the foliage has gone brown remove it, you may have to cut some
of the leaf stalks with scissors, and check the stems for life.
You do this by just scraping a small amount of bark back using your
thumbnail or a knife blade in order to expose the tissue immediately
under it. If this is fresh and green then the stem is still alive
but if it is brown and dry then that portion of stem is dead.
If you get a "dead" result then test again working back
towards the trunk until you get a positive result and then prune
all the dead shoots off.
As long as the plant is still alive keep it in place as it may
well take until next spring for it to leaf up again.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Moira Mount from Doncaster asks:
My daughter has just moved house and the
back lawn is snided with ants, they have two young children who
cannot go out as they crawl all over you, is there an ant killer
you can mix with water to pour over the lawn. Used a full trigger
spray of killer, nippon powder put on two ants nests, but these
are quite away from the ants that are crawling about. Baby being
christened 21 aug, having marquee, needs to get rid of them by then.
|
|
Reg answers:
I would treat the ant nests with a new product - ant nest destroying
nematodes. These are natural or biological pest control agents,
millions of microscopic worms, that soon sort the nests out.
For further details and to order visit either of these sites:
www.just-green.com
www.greengardener.co.uk
|
| Margaret Picken from
Orpington, Kent asks:
Dear Reg, I have a hydrangea which has flowered
beautifully from new (3yrs) but this year the foliage is very healthy
but no sign of any flowers does this happen normally?
|
|
Reg answers:
No, this is not really normal but I think that as long as you have
not been pruning it back hard the reason that there are no flowers
this year could well be that the plant became too dry at the roots
last year. The crucial period is from about now (August) until the
middle of October, try to keep the roots moist over that time while
the plant is initiating next year's flower buds and things will
be OK.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Ada Hill from San
Antonio asks:
I have a fern that I transplanted to a bigger
pot. I noticed that the fern was turning brown. I discovered a frog
was living in the pot. I do not know why the fern is brown. Is the
fern brown due to the frog, or due to the transplantation to another
pot? Is there a way to save my fern? It is mainly brown, but a few
spots are green.
|
|
Reg answers:
First of all let me assure you that the frog is doing no harm at
all, in fact it is doing you several favours every night by eating
lots of slugs.
Now if the browning is all on the underside of the fern there is
nothing to worry about as this is just the plant going about the
business of reproducing itself. These brown structures are the sporangia
which release the spores, which are the "seeds" of the
fern.
If the browning is affecting the whole of the frond, top and bottom
surface, and they feel dried out then your plant needs more water.
Even if it all dries off it is still likely to sprout up again
in spring.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Keith Fenton from UK,
Manchester asks:
I have an empty flower bed that is currently
over run by Leylandii roots from a nearby tree stump cut down some
years ago. How would I kill off the roots without having to dig
them up ? The roots produce shoots that I have to continually pull
up and if I was to use the bed as it is, then I fear that I may
damage the root systems of the plants that I intend to grow. I need
something that I can sprinkle on the flower bed that will kill the
roots off and gradually decompose in the soil so that I can plant
in it at a later stage.
|
|
Reg answers:
I'm afraid that if the stump was cut down a few years ago then
it is dead and so the stump is unable to send a weed killer, such
as Growing Success Deep Root, throughout the root system. So really
there is no solution to this other than digging out the remaining
roots, or creating a raised bed so that, in effect, the roots are
buried deeper so that they no longer cause a problem at planting
time. If left they will gradually decompose over a period of years
and they do not produce "suckers".
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Louise Clarke from London asks:
The two passion fruit plants in the garden
have lots of fruit. But this week I have noticed that some of the
fruit is soft and 'browning' near the stem. the stem is yellowing
too. It's not that the fruit is ripening, more that it looks like
it is going bad.
Am I over watering it? Or underwatering it?
It's such a shame as the plant seems to be doing rather well otherwise.
Initially some of the flowers just never bloomed, some simply went
yellow and dried up before really forming. But lots of others are
doing fine. This is my first garden and I may be over keen!!! Hope
you can help. Thank you.
|
|
Reg answers:
If the plants are still looking good apart from some of the fruits
then it is unlikely to be over watering, although there is still
a possibility of giving too little water.
This is a time of great stress for your plant as it is carrying
lots of fruit and if too many fruits set then the plant is likely
to reject some of them as it cannot cope on existing resources.
I would try liquid feeding using tomato fertiliser about once every
10 days for at least a month and see if This does the trick.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Antony from Blackpool
asks:
Lavatera, I need to kill off my shrub to
make way for new planting - what should I use?
|
|
Reg answers:
Cut the shrub down to leave as decent stump and then treat This
with either Growing Success Deep Root or Dax Root Out following
the instructions on the pack.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Janice Cook from
Monmouthshire asks:
I have a red Canadian maple specimen tree
planted two years ago (semi mature standard), protected from wind
in a sheltered garden, watered regularly. The problem is that there
is a covering of white mildew on the outer leaves and new leaves
are browning and dying off. All other specimen trees in my garden
are fine; cherries, apples, pears, willows, peaches even rubinia
- all good. What is happening?
|
|
Reg answers:
Your tree is being attacked by a fungal disease called powdery
mildew which usually happens after the tree has undergone a period
when the roots have become dry.
If you ignore it, it will not kill the tree but it could defoliate
it earlier than usual. If you wish to treat it, or if spraying is
possible, then use a systemic fungicide such as Bio Fungus Fighter
or Scotts Fungus Clear ASAP repeating the dose twice more at 10
day intervals.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Frederick Cooper from
Kencot, Lechlade, Glos asks:
What are the largest and longest flowering
mophead hydrangeas that I can grow in a large pot outdoors?
|
|
Reg answers:
Well the answer now is different to what it would have been This
time last year, as we now have a completely new type of hydrangea
on the market. It went on sale in the UK for the first time This
spring and it is called Hydrangea Endless Summer. It constitutes
a breakthrough in Hydrangea breeding as the plants flower on both
the old and the new wood so the flowering season is greatly extended.
Endless Summer is a Hydrangea macrophylla variety and like some
others the blooms can be changed from pink on limey soils to blue
on acid ones. Of course This can be manipulated by the use of lime
or hydrangea colorant and growing the plants in large tubs. It grows
to the usual sort of height around 3-5 ft. and is just as hardy
as other Hydrangeas.
They may be hard to find This year but I would wait until next spring
and look for one then.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Shirley from Gwent asks:
In a gardening book it is recommended to
use a growth regulator to control my hedge. I cannot find one anywhere
and my hedge seems to have a mind of its own. Can you recommend
one please.
|
|
Reg answers:
The only one on the market at the moment is Stop Gro G8 which contains
maleic hydrazide and is available from Victoriana Nursery Gardens,
Ashford, Kent. www.victoriana.ws
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Bob & Mair Jones from
Knaresborough asks:
We have recently planted a redwood tree in
the garden - it is about 8ft high and when bought was in a large
wooden container. We have watered the tree each day but now notice
that there is a browning of some of the central greenery. We are
based in Harrogate North Yorks - our soil is clay - but we have
used bark within the hole to base the tree. Is This browning natural?
Grateful for any views ...
|
|
Reg answers:
If your tree is now beginning to become quite dense it is normal
for the INNER foliage to go brown as a result of it being deprived
of sunlight.
If the browning is on the OUTSIDE and you have been watering it
adequately then the problem is likely to be cypress aphids. These
can be controlled with a couple of applications of Bio Provado Ultimate
Bug Killer.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Pat Jones from Lancashire asks:
A few days ago I had my very large flowering
cherry tree cut down. How do I kill the very large roots.
|
|
Reg answers:
The best products to use are either Growing Success Deep Root or
Dax Root Out available from gardening outlets. Just follow the instructions
on the pack.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Anne Smith from Frimley
asks:
I want to have a mirror in the garden with
trellis/gate in front to give the effect of the garden continuing
but I can't find a mirror in garden centres - is a normal mirror
used for This effect and if so does it need treating for the weather/rain
|
|
Reg answers:
Although it would be possible to use an ordinary mirror it is not
really advisable as it could prove to be rather dangerous.
Most garden designers use polished acrylicoutdoor garden mirror
panels which are much better and safe too.
Here are a couple of suppliers. Allplas www.allplas.co.uk
and Primrose Products www.primroselondon.co.uk
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Alan Reid from Bethnal
Green asks:
How do get rid of Black Fly on young container
growing rose.
|
|
Reg answers:
Well they should not be too much of a problem to kill off using
either one of the special rose pest and disease sprays like Bio
Multirose or Scotts Roseclear 3. If you wished to be a bit more
organic you could use Bio Organic Pest Killer or Growing Success
Advanced Bug Killer.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Una from
Spain asks:
Two things :
1. Can you tell me about an exotic red flowered
plant called Centrum
2. Have you any idea what the scientific
name is for the Argentinean climber they call "La Dame del
Noche"
Please
|
|
Reg answers:
First of all I think you meant to write "the exotic red flowered
plant called Cestrum" rather than "centrum". There
are several evergreen and deciduous species included in the family,
with various flower colours, but I think that you are referring
to C. elegans an evergreen semi-weeping shrub from Mexico. This
is among the group that are more likely to survive a slight frost,
by which I mean that they will still re-grow from the base if the
plants are touched over by frost, but This would make them unlikely
to bloom very well during the following late summer/autumn period.
Here in the UK you would need a very sheltered spot outdoors to
grow one well and they are best put outside in summer and brought
inside for the winter, but as you are in Spain you may well be able
to get better results outdoors all year round.
Absolutely ideally they would like a minimum temperature around
10C (50F) but if you have a sheltered position where temps. Do not
fall below -5C (23F) tougher ones like C. elegans could come through
OK. You could always protect the plant with fleece if you are worried.They
would prefer a fertile, well drained soil and a wall would provide
extra protection as they will reach up to about 3m (10ft) tall.
The flowers carry a heavy jasmine scent and many of the group are
popular pot plants in the USA where they are often called "pot
jessamine".
The Latin name of La Dame del Noche is Brunfelsia americana. It
is a Caribbean native with white flowers that are heavily scented
only between sunset and sunrise.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Francesca from London
asks:
Dear Reg I have the little city backyard
from hell and yet nature is taking over! My Fatsia Japonica has
gone completely wild: it seems as if every day there is a new leaf!
What do I do to keep it in check? It has doubled in size in three
months. Same for my passiflora alba which was supposed to be 'tender'
but which is enjoying the microclimate of my dingy backyard to a
ridiculous extent. How do I prune it? And do I have to prune it?
It is still flowering. It is fantastic how plants will simply grow
and grow ... thank you so much - Francesca
|
|
Reg answers:
Your Fatsia can be curtailed by pruning but the absolute best time
to do This is late April-early May. I suppose that if you are in
danger of being taken over by your plant then you could still prune
it now. It is best to remove any unwanted branches completely as
shortening them just spoils the natural graceful shape of the plant.
Fresh growth will arise readily from the base.
The passiflora would be best pruned in early spring when you could
either cut the whole thing down to just above the soil or leave
the main branches and cut the side shoots back to leave just a couple
or three buds.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Jo from Knaresborough
asks:
Dear Reg, I have been given a "cockatoo plant"
and am not sure how to care for it. I started by keeping it indoors
but it began to wilt despite watering and to drop its flowers, so
I am now keeping it outside in its pot and it is looking much better.
Could you please advise me as to how often I should water it? And
should I bring it indoors at the end of Autumn? Thank you, JO
|
|
Reg answers:
The botanical name of your Cockatoo plant was Impatiens congalensis
but it is now Impatiens niamniamensis. It is an evergreen plant
from tropical East Africa and is capable of flowering just about
all year round. They can also grow to be about 90cm (3ft) tall and
about half that height in width.
Now it should be watered regularly and fed fortnightly during the
active growing season April to September but watered more sparingly
over the winter period. Although they quite enjoy being outdoors,
in semi-shade, during the warmer months they must be overwintered
indoors.
Now it is possible to overwater these plants in which case they
will droop their leaves as if they were short of water, so I would
push a forefinger down into the compost to the start of the first
joint then remove it to see if the end is moist. If so the plant
is OK but if it remains dry then you will need to water.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Steve McLean from Croydon
asks:
I have been advised that
I need to cut down a clematis and Ivy that grow up the side of my
house as the roots are starting to get into the foundations. Although
cutting the plants down is not a problem how do I effectively kill
the roots? Many thanks!
|
|
Reg answers:
As long as you leave a woody stump after cutting the plants down
This can then be treated with either Growing Success Deep Root or
Dax Root Out both of which are plant stump killers. Just follow
the instructions on the pack.
With Best Wishes,
Reg
|
| Lindsey from Croydon
asks:
Hi I have recently moved into a new build
and we have found that many mushrooms have started to grow when
the weather is wet. As we have a big garden it is taking ages to
pick them out and they grow at a very fast rate. The builder told
me that they should stop in a few weeks and recommended a mould
remover for grass. Do you know what causes them and will they stop
in a few weeks if we keep on picking them out? Are there any products
you would recommend for their removal?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Lindsey,
This is not that uncommon you know, because whenever you get a newly
built house you end up with some bits of wood and other biodegradeable
waste being buried in the garden soil. I don't mean that This is
done on purpose but it just happens accidentally. Then as nature
takes its course fungi will rot down This buried debris, eventually
leading to the production of the "flowers" of the fungus
- toadstools.
As your builder suggests there is no lasting problem here, the debris
will rot away and toadstool production will cease, but This will
take a while and we now entering one of the main seasons for toadstools,
early autumn.
I'm afraid that there are no longer any garden chemicals available
that are approved for killing under soil fungi but here is an old
gardeners' recipe used to discourage them on lawns since Edwardian
times.
Take a watering can and put 2 oz of sulphate of iron (available
from garden centres) in the bottom and then add a couple of pints
of warm water. Mix This together until the sulphate of iron is diluted
in the water and top up to one and a half gallons with cold water.
Finally add a dessertspoonful of washing up liquid and stir it in.
Now spike the affected area with a garden fork and water the canful
over 2 sq. yds.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Jan Bradford from exeter,
devon asks:
I have a grapevine that is doing very well
in our south facing garden. It has plenty of bunches of grapes but
Ithink there are too many on each bunch. What should i do?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Jan,
Yes grapes often benefit from being thinned out when they are grown
for dessert use rather than wine, but generally This is done a couple
of times during the growing season.
What you do is just snip out odd individual grapes from the bunch
with thin pointed scissors.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Lysandra from Cornwall
asks:
I'm trying to create a garden feature using
tree ferns - dicksonia antarctica - and would like to know which
additional plants to use to give as near as possible an "authentic
setting." The area is part shaded and sheltered for the ferns which
are to the rear and towards the front there is more sun. I live
in the South West. Many Thanks.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Lysandra,
This sounds a very interesting project and you seem to have just
the right spot for the tree ferns. I think that you need to create
a sort of lush, jungle style garden around them and plants with
large leaves tend to help the illusion along. Look at cannas, hostas,
other hardy ferns (especially shuttlecock ferns- Matteuccia struthiopteris),
Ligularias, Rheum (ornamental rhubarb), Rodersia pinnata, Farfugium,
Cordyline and Acanthus to name but a few possibilities.
With Best Wsihes,
Reg.
|
| Sarah from Colchester
asks:
Hi Reg, I'm wondering if you can answer 2
queries? 1) how do I get rid of scale insects on my stephanotis?
Should I keep it away from other plants to stop spread? 2) I have
a real problem with trailing petunias in tubs. They flourish to
start with but about now the lower part of the stem gets progressively
woody and the leaves fall off leaving me with lovely flowers still
but on the end of a brown stick like stem! Hoping you can help!
many thanks
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Sarah,
Yes you should try to keep your scale insect infested Stephonotis
away from other plants and a good way to get rid of them would be
to spray with Bio Provado Ultimate Big Killer. This is a systemic
insecticide that will persist in the sap of the plant so any insect
sucking the sap is killed. Alternatively you could paint the insects
with surgical or methylated spirit which would also kill them.
Trailing petunias need to be kept well watered and fed otherwise
they do tend to just be green on the ends of long shoots as the
season goes on.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Alison Jarvie from Hamilton,
Scotland asks:
I have an Acer in a pot in my garden. It
is about one metre tall. It has developed splits in the main stems.
What causes this? Would it be better in the ground? Soil is light/sandy.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Alison,
Splits in main stem seem to suggest that the water supply available
to the roots has not been very constant. It happens mostly when
the plant suddenly gets ample supplies of water following, or alternating
with, relatively dry periods. Try to keep the compost moist, mulching
the surface with gravel should keep more moisture in too.
I cannot really recommend that you paint the cracks with a wound
sealant as this can simply seal in fungal spores enabling them to
attack the wood from under the seal.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Lorraine Roby from Atherton asks:
How should I prune a hydreagea. It is growing
in a large earthenware container and has flowered well, but I would
like it to be a more dense bush. |
|
Reg answers:
Hi Lorriane,
I assume that you have one of the "usual" Hydrangeas known
as Hydrangea hortensis or H. macrophylla. Really they require very
little regular pruning and the necessary work is carried out in
early spring- just when the growth buds begin to break for the new
season.
Firstly you follow each shoot down from the old flower head and
it cut off just above the first pair of FAT buds. This should remove
up to 30cm (1ft) of shoot. Those fat buds will contain next that
summer's flower buds.
Any really weak shoots can be removed completely and one or two
of the oldest branches should be cut back hard in order to rejuvenate
the shrub.
Remember to make sure that the compost is kept moist during the
spring and summer.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Joyce Baxter from Yorkley
asks:
Hello Reg. I have had a tree peony for years
which has never flowered, in sunny position. Do they like certain
conditions. Have even tried to get rid of it but we get loads of
healthy greenery but no flowers. Any suggestions Reg? Many thanks
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Reg answers:
Hi Joyce,
Tree peonies thrive in similar conditions to their ordinary herbaceous
relatives except that they are slightly less hardy nad need to be
planted more deeply. This means that there should be 10-12cm (4-5in)
above the top of the rootstock with tree peonies whereas herbaceous
ones only need 5cm (2in) above the growth buds at the crown of the
plant.
However tree peonies are MUCH more shade tolerant and they definitely
prefer a position shaded from mid- day sun so if yours in a place
where it gets loads of sun all day (when we do get some) this could
be putting it off a bit. Having said that of course they do need
some sun preferably a few hours in the late morning and more in
late afternoon evening.
Another factor which results in lack of flowers is if the plant
is not getting well fed and I think that this is more likely to
be the problem with yours.
So I prescribe a dressing with sulphate of potash very soon about
two or three handfuls around the root area, i.e. the soil immediately
below the limit of the spread of the branches.
Then every spring make sure that the soil is moist and then put
down a good mulch of well rotted garden compost or well rotted manure.
Mushroon compost would also suffice as this is largely well rotted
horse manure, although it is alkaline that would be no problem with
tree peonies.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
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|
John Crossland from Bradford, W. Yorks
asks:
Please could you give me advice on growing
privets from cuttings. Or any way to start a small hedge from scratch.
Thankyou
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|
Reg answers:
Hi John,
There are several types of cuttings that can be taken from Privet
plants but I think that one of the best is taking what are known
as hardwood cuttings taken from late autumn (October) until mid
December. It is best to take them earlier rather than later in order
to get the best results.
You need to collect some ripe ( meaning roughly pencil thick and
brown stemmed) shoots of the current season's growth that should
be between 12-18in (30-45cm) long.
Trim off the soft tips and remove all the leaves from the lower
half of the stems.
Next trim the base of each cutting to just below the lowest bud
and remove a one and a half inch (3.5cm) long sliver of bark from
one side of the base of the cutting. This is known as "wounding"
and it can help to improving the rooting process.
Really, I suppose, the cuttings could be longer than this up to
about 2ft (60cm) if you have the right material available then you
would get larger plants for your hedge more quickly.
Dip the base of your cuttings in rooting hormone and then insert
them in a slit trench 4in (10cm) apart so that the foliage is just
above the soil.
Make the slit trench in a sheltered part of the garden, by sticking
a spade in to its full depth and moving it backwards and forwards,
and then half fill it with sharp sand. This will aid drainage and
promote rooting.
Leave the cuttings in situ until the following autumn when they
can be lifted ready for planting out as your hedge.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
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| John Clarke from Lowestoft
Suffolk asks:
My 7ft leylandii hedge is shooting ok along
the top and seems to be growing from the bottom but there brown
holes (one large one in the middle)..I have some Provado Ultimate
Bug Killer, Do you think it's worth a try??
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|
Reg answers:
Hi John,
Yes definitely as I think that your hedge is being attacked by conifer
aphids. Concentrate on the area around the edge of the brown patch
and repeat the dose about 10 days later.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
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|
Sheila Gorski from Stoke on Trent asks:
I have had my hydrangea for 3 years. It flowerd
fist two years. No flowers this year but very green tried potash.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Shelia,
The main reasons why established Hydrangeas fail to flower are incorrect
pruning and lack of moisture during the bud initiation period.
Provided that you have not been cutting your plant back hard then
I would try making sure that the soil does not dry out from now
until early October. If plants get too dry over this bud initiation
period then they are unlikley to flower, if you wanted to apply
a little more potash now that would also be helpful.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Marion from Worksop,
Notts asks:
I have been using cutlass hedge growth regulator
but this has come off the market now, is there anything else similar
to use?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Marion,
Until about 10 days ago I would have said that there is no alternative
product available but then I found out about a treatment called
Stop Grow G8 available from Victoriana Nursery Gardens in Kent.
It contains maleic hydrazide and is suitable for controlling the
growth of grass, evergreens hedges, privet and hawthorn.
Contact details are Victoriana Nursery Gardens, Challock, Nr. Ashford
Kent TN 25 4DG. Tel: 01233 740 529.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Russell from Dorset asks:
I have courgette growing in large pots in
green house. I water daily. Courgettes grow then when about 10cm
long just go to mush and rot. Any ideas?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Russell,
Generally the causes for this problem are getting too much moisture
splashed into the centre of the plant, pollination of the flowers
is not good enough or the plant is trying to carry too many fruits.
Try harvesting some and using them as they become 10cm long and
see if this will help the others to get bigger. When you see a female
flower (one with an embryo courgette behind it) take some pollen
from a male flower (just an ordinary stem behind the bloom) on a
child's paint brush and push it into it. This should ensure good
pollination.
Remove all the rotting fruits in case rot spreads.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| George Robinson from
Perth, W. Australia asks:
When do you prune hydrangeas?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi George,
Hydrangeas are normally pruned in the early spring. Just remove
old flower heads and cut back about one third of the oldest branches,
either to just above the soil or to a well placed side shoot.
Reg.
|
|
Ken Bishop from Carterton asks:
I have two Brugmansia but don't really know
much about them. Things like how to prune or trim them and do they
need support as they are a metre tall. I can't find anything about
them in my gardening books.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Ken,
Normally Brugmansias are self supporting and they can be cut right
down to about 10cm (4in) above the compost in autumn. They are not
reliably hardy over the winter outdoors in spite of our milder winters.
If the main stem is left and just the branches are cut back hard
in late autumn the plant will develop a thick tree-like trunk, which
can make them much more difficult to store indoors over the winter.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Dawn Singh from Leeds
asks:
Hello Reg, Last year we had a silver birch
removed as it was leaning into the neighbours garden. The tree man
said that he dug down, chopped all roots spreading from the hub,
cut out the hub/root and placed dax? on the remaining root to kill
it off.. I have now lots of shoots growing through my lawn where
the remaining roots are... How can I stop this?
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|
Reg answers:
Hi Dawn,
I'm afraid that these are suckers growing up from the old roots
that were not killed by the Dax Root Out used by the tree man. If
the roots are wide-spreading sometimes more than one application
is needed to completely kill them off. I should keep painting the
suckers with either Murphy Tumbleweed Extra Strong Gel or Growing
Success Deep Root Gel both of which will move through the system
of the remaining roots. KEEP THESE PRODUCTS OFF YOUR GRASS AS THEY
WILL KILL THAT AS WELL GIVEN THE CHANCE.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Sarah from Bournemouth asks:
My friend has just bought a Tasmainia tree
fern (think its a Dicksonia Antarctica) and she doesn't have any
infomation about how to care for it. She say's it about 3ft high
and just wants to find out does it need re-potting? If so when and
how she should care for it?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Sarah,
I doubt if it will need re-potting. Keep it in a semi shaded position
and water the trunk and crown of the plant thoroughly. Give a feed
every month with a liquid seaweed fertiliser like Maxicrop Original.
Protect the stem and especially the crown of the plant during cold
spells in winter.
With Best Wishes
Reg.
|
| Brenda Powell from Cheltenham
asks:
What is eating my fuchsias? The leaves stick
together and when pulled apart there is a little green worm there.
Help please?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Brenda,
This is a moth caterpillar. You can either remove the fused together
leaves or spray the plant with an insecticide such as Bio Greenfly
Killer Plus or Scotts Bug Clear.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Margaret Khan from Hertfordshire
asks:
I have a privet hedge that is dying, it has
orange pimples on the stems, apart from that there is no other visible
marks, what can I treat it with to stop it completely
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Margaret,
If these are clusters of quite small almost fluorescent orangey
spots your privet is being attacked by coral spot fungus. This had
used to confine itself to decomposing dead wood and prunings but
over recent years it has become more ambitious and begun to attack
living wood.
Unfortunately there is no prescribed treatment other than pruning
out affected wood, well back into healthy tissue. However I think
that I would add, feeding the hedge with a rose fertiliser (its
high potash content will help the plants to fight the disease) and
spray the plants about 3 times ten days apart with a fungicide such
as Bio Dithane 945.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Mary Ann from New Jersey
asks:
Hi Reg, I hope you can help. I have a crab
apple tree, that produces many apples, that fall off and rot. I
then have fruit flies. My question is, we want to save the tree,
but no longer wants the apples producing. Is there anything I can
use to kill the apples, but not the tree? Thanks for your time.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Mary,
About the only thing that you can do would be to remove all the
blossoms as soon as flowering is over then there would be no apples.
There is no chemical spray that would accomplish this without harming
your tree.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| JUNE FORSYTH from WASHINGTON
TYNE & WEAR asks:
I recenty removed some paving slabs from
the middle of my lawn and found a lot of sand. I dug down 2 foot
and filled it in with top soil, then put some grass seed on and
watered it. I would like to know if it will grow?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi June,
Yes I expect it will as long as you keep it watered. Once it is
up and growing give it a boost with an application of liquid lawn
fertiliser.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Jacqui Payne from Cromer
Norfolk asks:
Dear Reg, We have a Rowan tree which is situated
about 8 ft from our bungalow. It is some years old but appears to
have been regularly pruned, however, its roots have started to reach
under the path around the bungalow. The roots are also reaching
out towards where our drainage system is, we are thinking of either
cutting the roots back to within 3 ft of the base of the tree and/or
cutting the tree down to leave a stump. Have you any advice please?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Jacqui,
If you cut all the roots back to within 3 ft of the trunk the tree
is more likely to die than revive, so I would cut it down to leave
a stump and then apply either Dax Root Out or Growing Success Deep
Root according to the instructions on the pack. This should kill
the stump.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
Peter Barber from Liverpool asks:
How do I destroy very invasive BUDDLEIA.
It is growing in hard to reach areas, i.e. tops of walls etc. Thank
you.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Peter,
This is not going to be an easy job as Buddleias are not easily
deterred once established. The best thing would be to cut them back
hard to leave a stump and then treat that with Growing Success Deep
Root, according to the pack instructions.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Linda from Warrington
asks:
I have inherited a lovely hydranger, but
I want to move it to another part of my garden - when would be the
best time? Many thanks.
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Linda,
The best time to move your Hydrangea would be in autumn about October.
Lift it with plenty of soil intact around the roots and keep it
well watered as it shoots again and on throughout the summer of
2006.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
|
John Higgs from Cheadle, Cheshire asks:
I put my grass cutting in bin bags and the
liquid that came from the bottom of the bag has been collected over
the years, can I use this as a fertiliser and do I have to water
it down?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi John,
Yes this could be used as liquid fertiliser but it need to be diluted
at the rate of one part of liquid to ten parts of water. Just apply
it to the soil not over the foliage.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Donna Szrajber from Heckfield,
Hants asks:
I have rather a large garden, most of it
is grass. I have a kubota tractor. My lawn has a tremendous amount
of thatch in it therefore it's not a good looking lawn. Which would
be the best machine for me to use?
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Donna,
I know that there are attatchments available for garden tractors
that would rake out this thatch for you but I'm afraid that I have
never used one myself so I don't know anything about the capabilities
of various brands. The best thing would be to check out a few dealers
and compare results. The best time to do the job would be September
- see if any dealers would arrage a demo in your garden.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
|
| Sandra Aughton from Southport
asks:
We have some well established conifers in
our garden and have noticed that several of them are starting to
go brown mainly from the bottom but one only has green growth at
the top. Whay can we do to help them survive? Thank you
|
|
Reg answers:
Hi Sandra,
I'm afraid that this seems very serious. If the trees are brown
all the way up except for a small green area on the top then they
are unlikely to recover and should be removed, as most conifers
do not re-grow from old wood.
With Best Wishes,
Reg.
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