10 November 2009
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Snowdrops

The first sight of the bright white nodding heads of snowdrops peeping through the undergrowth signals that winter is coming to an end. These plants are very hardy, and the colder the weather, the longer the flowers last, with some flowering into March.

Recommended varieties

To the untrained eye, snowdrops look very alike. However, there are more than 100 species and cultivars. A closer look reveals the subtle distinguishing characteristics that captivate snowdrop enthusiasts, or galanthophiles. The variations appear in the green markings on the flower petals and texture and colour of the strap-like foliage.

Flowering January to February

Galanthus nivalis: the common snowdrop flowers from January and, in the right weather, blooms continue into March.
G. nivalis 'Flore Pleno': this double-flowered variety spreads quite easily.

Flowering in late February to March

G. 'Magnet': this vigorous variety produces huge flowers and will quickly form a large clump of plants.
G. nivalis Scharlockii Group: grey-green leaves distinguish this snowdrop, as do the very droopy, closed flower-heads.
G. nivalis 'Pagoda': pagoda-like flowers with outer petals that roll back slightly.
G. plicatus: a native of Russia, this species has distinctive pleated leaves.
G. nivalis 'Virescens': the green markings on the tops of the outer petals, as well as the inner petals, make this variety stand out.
G. caucasicus: broad grey leaves and large flowers with horseshoe green markings on the inner petals. It's one of the last snowdrops to flower.

Unusual varieties

G. 'S. Arnott': these flowers have a very subtle scent and are almost twice the size of common snowdrops, with stems up to 25cm (10in tall).
G. elwesii: the flowers are much larger, appearing on 25cm (10in) stems, with two green marks on the inner segment of the petals and a honey fragrance. This species originates from Turkey.
G. ikariae: this has large, lantern-like flowers and wide, bright green leaves. It's also from Turkey, and therefore more suitable to slightly drier locations.
G. nivalis 'Sandersii': characterised by yellow markings instead of the typical green. These are harder to grow than the traditional green-and-white varieties, and therefore quite rare.
G. reginae-olgae: this snowdrop is native to the Mediterranean and flowers in autumn, with more open flowers and few leaves. It requires a dry site in partial shade.

Growing tips

Snowdrops thrive in light shade under deciduous trees or shrubs, although they can be grown in containers if re-potted annually.

As with most bulbs, snowdrops require well-drained soil, but this shouldn't be allowed to dry out in summer. The ideal soil conditions replicate their natural woodland habitat: humus-rich and slightly moisture-retentive. When preparing your site for planting, add plenty of organic matter.

Snowdrops don't establish themselves successfully when planted as dry bulbs. Specialist nurseries tend to supply them with the plants still in full leaf (called 'in the green'), with the bulb wrapped to preserve moisture. When buying bulbs, check with the supplier how long the plants have been out of the ground, and ensure the bulbs aren't soft or wilting.

When planting single bulbs, add some sharp sand for drainage, and label the plant - especially if it's an unusual variety. This will also remind you where your snowdrops are once they're dormant!

Once established, your snowdrop colony should go forth and multiply of its own accord. It's best to divide clumps every three years, particularly when growing cultivars, to avoid overcrowding. Clumps of snowdrops repeated around the garden in winter also make a lovely feature.

To transplant snowdrops to other parts of your garden, lift plants that are 'in the green' after flowering, when the soil is moist. Carefully tease the clumps of bulbs apart by hand, trying to avoid damage to the roots.

It's best to replant the bulbs singly, spacing each one at least two bulb widths apart. However, where large clumps include small seedlings, replant the bulbs in small clusters, spreading the roots out well, and water in.

If growing snowdrops in containers, re-pot in July or August when the plants are dormant, using fresh compost.

Don't use strong fertilisers or manure-based compost; leaf-mould is preferable and more similar to their natural, woodland environment.

Dividing snowdrops video

Watch Carol Klein as she propagates snowdrops in the green:

Problem solver

Lifting and moving bulbs every three years helps to keep disease under control.

Botrytis

This can occur in mild winters or when frosts alternate with rain in spring. The disease is also spread easily via hands, boots and tools.

The symptoms are stunted shoots covered with grey, furry mould which subsequently turns the leaves brown and rotten. If spotted, dig up the affected bulb immediately and destroy it. A mild infection can be treated with fungicide. To prevent fungal disease, divide congested clumps to allow fresh air to circulate.

Narcissus bulb fly

These can lay eggs in the holes left by the dying bulb foliage. The larvae subsequently tunnel into the bulb and destroy the centre.

Symptoms of damage include narrow, yellow, distorted leaves in spring, and bulbs may fail to flower. You can prevent an infestation by raking the soil over as the foliage dies, adding a general insecticide. Plants in sun are more likely to be affected.

Swift moth

This creature lays up to 700 eggs, and the grubs burrow into the soil and attack bulbs. The moths are attracted to weedy areas, so regular cultivation can prevent attacks. A general insecticide used on the soil around the plant in autumn will kill the grub.