Chef Simon Rimmer explains why you can't always trust the 'vegetarian' option on a menu and how to make the most of a veggie barbecue.
Chef Simon Rimmer explains why you can't always trust the 'vegetarian' option on a menu and how to make the most of a veggie barbecue.
Simon Rimmer became an unsuspecting expert on vegetarian food when he bought his first eaterie in Manchester in 1992 - an established veggie café. Despite being a carnivore he decided to stick with the vegetarian menu and immediately embarked on a mission to learn as much about vegetarian cooking as he could. Many years of learning, experimenting and trial and error later, he's established a successful business, written a vegetarian cookery book and mixes vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes as the chef on BBC Two's Something for the Weekend.
When we first bought the restaurant it was a hippy-vegetarian café. We (myself and business partner Simon Connolly) bought it because we wanted somewhere cheap. It was very cheap as the area wasn’t very trendy. We didn’t put much thought into it; we basically thought we could do something with it and since I couldn’t cook back then, I had no idea whether a vegetarian restaurant would be a hard or easy thing to do.
I became quite obsessed with the idea of creating a really good vegetarian restaurant. I’m not actually a vegetarian myself but I don't eat a huge amount of meat. Although when I get home from work I do want to eat something different, so I tend to cook myself either chicken or fish.
No, I don’t believe you can always trust that the vegetarian option will be fully vegetarian in a non-vegetarian restaurant. I would be surprised if most of the cheese they use is vegetarian, for example there is no such thing as vegetarian parmesan. Pecorino cheese is also traditionally not vegetarian but I get a fantastic veggie cheese that's similar in style from South Wales. I would also be surprised if they do actually use separate knives and pans for the veggie/non-veggie stuff.
I think professional chefs find vegetarian food labour-intensive. If your background isn't in vegetarian food then when you're creating a dish you will typically base it around meat or fish. I've found that you really have to be creative with vegetarian dishes to avoid making the same boring dishes such as lasagne or risotto.
You can do something very simple such as marinated vegetable kebabs - just mix up some chilli oil, cumin and crushed coriander seeds and coat some vegetables - go for something adventurous, not just onions and peppers. See what's seasonal in your local greengrocers.
You can also roast aubergines on the barbecue with some olive oil, and you can create delicious wraps with coconut rice - simply cook some jasmine rice, stir in a big dollop of coconut milk and chopped chilli, wrap the rice in a banana leaf and put it on the barbecue. All the flavours will seep through - it's absolutely perfect for the summer.
You could also try aubergine satay skewers, a simple satay dip would just involve fresh coconut, chilli and some stock. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper, marinade them, then roast them on the barbecue.
If you're going to cook for kids, don't make them feel chicken nuggets are bad for them as they will only rebel and refuse anything else!
Try them on vegetable nuggets - they're easy to make and taste amazing. Simply roast some sweet potato in a little olive oil, then finely chop some red pepper and green beans and add some grated hard cheese. Mush it with a fork and mould it into sausage shapes. Roll them in flour, then egg, then breadcrumbs and shallow fry or grill them. Kids love them! Pasta dishes are also a great way to get children to eat their vegetables. You can put puréed veggies in a tomato-based sauce and they won't even know they're eating something healthy.
You can make a vegetarian Lancashire hotpot, which is a very simple dish to make in a large amount. This recipe will feed about 20 people:
My favourite dish is my Filo strudel with port wine sauce - it's the dish that changed the world, or at least my restaurant. I like to serve it with some fine beans, garlic and tomato sauce and a few new potatoes, although you can even serve it with chips and garlic mayonnaise too.
I have a great recipe for Chinese mushroom pancakes. It takes its inspiration from crispy duck and pancakes, but I use oyster mushrooms instead. They're brilliant and really work like crispy duck.
My two favourite countries are Thailand and, bizarrely, Spain which is probably not known for its great vegetarian cuisine. I love the tapas dishes the Spanish make. There are lots of vegetarian ones and they use really gentle spices like paprika in their food, while the Thais tend to use more severe spices. The Spanish also do lots of griddling and roasting, with artichokes and aubergines, which I love.
I like to think I'm a bit of a magpie really. I will borrow ideas from anywhere. For example, I am currently playing around with challenging the idea of the normal samosa. Currently I have got as far as taking puff pastry, asparagus, raisins, pine nuts, cumin and coriander seeds and serving it with a fresh tomato sauce. The idea came from eating a vegetable samosa in an Indian restaurant and wondering how I could make it more interesting.
At the moment asparagus is my favourite seasonal vegetable. We use Formby asparagus, which has a very short season, but it grows out on the sand dunes near the restaurant in Didsbury. I also love purple sprouting broccoli. May and June are the nicest times of year for vegetables, full stop, with fresh broad beans and fresh peas in season. I also like the winter, though, when there are parsnips and turnips.